40 mm watches: the 39 to 40.5 mm cases

The field watch to buy at $95 if sapphire is not a condition. 40 mm, 11 mm thick, 50 m, mineral crystal, 20 mm lugs, Indiglo backlight, $95 on timex.com on the check date, sale and regular price the same. Timex publishes no lug-to-lug for any watch, so that column is a dash, and the case is brass with a titanium finish, not titanium. The Vaer S5 above is the alternative at $189: $94 more for sapphire, 50 m more water resistance and a second strap. Street prices at discounters are usually lower, but no discounter page was fetched, so the list price stands.

The dress watch to buy under $200, and the only Timex on the page in a steel case. 40 mm, 11 mm thick, 50 m, mineral crystal, 20 mm lug width, leather strap, cream dial with Roman numerals and a day-date, $149. Timex publishes no lug-to-lug. The Scout and the Weekender are brass, and apart from the Islander Turtle it is the only day-date here. The Weekender 38 at $77 is the cheaper Timex analogue, 30 m on a slip-through fabric strap. A mechanical Timex in the same family costs $259: the hand-wound Marlin, on the under-$300 list. The Waterbury's trade is mineral glass and 50 m; what $149 buys over the Scout is the steel case and the day-date.

The floor of the ladder, and the entry with the least published about it: $185 buys a titanium case and a spec sheet made of pictures. Bertucci sells the A-2T direct at $185 in every band variant and its product page states, in text, only a 40 mm unibody titanium case, a fixed bezel and a quartz movement it does not name; the water rating, crystal, thickness, lug-to-lug and band width are shown as images and are not in the data here. The brand's lume wording is "Swiss Super-Luminous". The A-4T Super Yankee at $295 adds a low-battery indicator, and a search snippet gives it as 44 mm, which is not adopted. What the next $64 buys is a spec sheet, and an automatic.

The quartz field watch to buy at $189, on the strength of a sapphire crystal and a 2-year warranty. 40 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 9.4 mm thick, 100 m, flat sapphire with internal anti-reflective coating, Super-LumiNova C1 in 15 layers, two straps in the box. The movement is a Miyota 2035 battery quartz and the product page states assembly in Hong Kong; Vaer's solar C-series starts at $319. The alternative for less is the Timex Scout further down at $95: $94 saved, and you give up the sapphire, 50 m of water resistance and the second strap. The S5 Tradition dial is $179 and the Tactical $199, and all three come as a 36 mm S3 at the same prices.

The thinnest diver on the page, and the one to buy if 10.4 mm matters more than an automatic. 39 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 150 m, flat sapphire with anti-reflective coating, BGW9 lume, aluminium bezel with a lume pip, 20 mm lugs, $239 with two straps in the box. The movement is a Miyota GM12 quartz and the product page states assembly in Hong Kong; Vaer's USA-assembled D4 in the same 39 mm case is solar and $429. The alternative for the money is the San Martin 6200 at $275: an automatic and 50 m more for 2.6 mm of thickness. The DS2 Meridian colourways are $239 to $249 in 36, 39 and 42 mm.

The thinnest watch on the page at 8.4 mm, and the one quartz here with both sapphire and 100 m. Seiko 6N52 quartz with date, 40.2 mm, 20 mm lugs, LumiBrite on the hands per the retailer listing; no lug-to-lug published. The price needs its provenance: Seiko's US site does not list the SUR307, and the $240 is the USD figure on Seiko's Middle East site, a maker's price from the wrong region. The DS2 at $239 is the alternative for $1 less, 150 m and a bezel at 10.4 mm; the SUR307's trade is where its price comes from, and 2 mm of thickness is what it wins.

The Islander to buy if 42 mm is too much case: 39 mm, 48.5 mm lug-to-lug, 12 mm thick, 100 m, flat sapphire with anti-reflective coating, Super-LumiNova, on a quick-release nylon weave strap with a leather backing, $249. It is $100 under the 9015-powered Northport on the under-$500 list, and the reason is the Miyota 8215, Miyota's basic non-hacking automatic. Day-date versions (ISL-129 and ISL-194) use the NH36A at the same $249; DLC versions are $279. The page does not state the lug width; warranty is 1 year. The alternative at the same price is the Aviator below, 3 mm wider and 0.5 mm shorter; the Mitchel's trade against the San Martin at $275 is 100 m and the 8215.

The only chronograph Vaer makes, at $279, on the Seiko VK63 meca-quartz: battery timekeeping, a mechanical chronograph module, so the pushers snap back like a mechanical. 40 mm, 11.8 mm thick, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 100 m, and the only current model with a tachymeter. Assembled in Hong Kong. Against the S5 at $189 the $90 buys the chronograph and 2.4 mm of thickness. Unimatic's U3-AEG runs the sibling VK64 at $840, which puts $279 in proportion; the Vaer's case is the plainer one and the money reflects it.

The lowest selling price of any automatic on the page, and the list price is what keeps it this far down: $280 compare-at, with the Nomad colourway (SP-5100-02) selling at $209 on the check date. NH35 automatic, 40 mm, 47 mm lug-to-lug, 13.8 mm thick, 150 m, sapphire with anti-reflective coating, 316L steel, 20 mm lugs. Spinnaker prices vary by colourway within a family, so the figure is for the one fetched. Against the San Martin 6200 it is 2 mm larger, 0.8 mm thicker, 50 m shallower and $5 more on list; what separates them is the design, which this site does not judge. The Croft Pioneer is $270 and the 42 mm Skeleton $299 to $465.

The chronograph to buy under $300 for a small wrist: 45.9 mm lug-to-lug is short for a 39 mm case. Seiko VK63 meca-quartz (quartz timekeeping, mechanical chronograph module with a snap-back reset), 13.5 mm thick, 50 m, double-domed K1 mineral crystal with anti-reflective coating, $290. Dan Henry's chronographs are all VK63 and the 1962 is the 39 mm one; the 1964 Gran Turismo is 38 mm and $310, over the line. The alternative for the money is the Vaer RS1 at $279, the same movement with 100 m and sapphire, noted below. The Dan Henry's trade is mineral glass and 50 m, and its argument is the case.

The Marlin for a 40 mm wrist, and the sixth automatic in the bracket at $299 on timex.com. An unnamed 21-jewel Japanese automatic with about 40 hours of reserve and an exhibition caseback, 40 mm, 13 mm thick, 50 m, domed acrylic, 20 mm lugs, green dial on leather; Timex publishes no lug-to-lug. Against the hand-wound Marlin at $259 it is 6 mm larger, 3 mm thicker and 20 m deeper for $40 more. The San Martin 6200 at $275 is the alternative for less: a named NH35, sapphire and 200 m. The Marlin's trade is acrylic and 50 m; its argument is the dial and the caseback.

$315 buys the Seiko name and a 4R36 that hacks and hand-winds, and gives back the sapphire. 39.4 mm, 48.1 mm lug-to-lug, 13.2 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, curved Hardlex, LumiBrite, on a bracelet. The dimensions are Seiko USA's; Long Island Watch rounds them to 40, 13.5 and 48. It was sold out at both on the check date, with Long Island Watch at $252. Against the Islander one rung down it is $66 more for a hacking movement and a bracelet, and a mineral-family crystal instead of sapphire; against the Boldr it is $16 more for the name. Strap versions (SRPG35 and siblings) exist at Seiko.

The diver to buy at $320 for the shortest lug-to-lug on the page, and the thickest case: 45.7 mm across the lugs is 0.3 mm under the SRPD55, and 14.8 mm thick is 1.4 mm over it. Super-compressor style with an internal rotating 60-minute bezel, Seiko NH35, 40 mm, 200 m, a double-domed mineral crystal with a sapphire coating and anti-reflective treatment, LumiNova, 22 mm lugs, 316L steel, date or no-date, and a 44 mm version. Each colour is limited to 1,970 pieces. The crystal is the stated exception to the sapphire rule: Dan Henry's wording is sapphire-coated mineral. The SRPD55 at $350 is the alternative, $30 more for Hardlex and the Seiko name.

$320.60 buys the cheapest mechanical GMT with a sapphire crystal here, and the figure will have moved by the time you read it. 39.5 mm, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 12.2 mm thick, Seiko NH34 caller, 100 m, top-hat sapphire, a 24-click bidirectional bezel with a distressed aluminium insert, a beads-of-rice bracelet. San Martin, Dongguan, shows most prices as a sale against a struck figure. The SN0116 sits in the brand's Classic collection, which its own page describes as homage watches; assembly is not stated beyond the company address and the warranty is two years per the homepage. For $48.40 more the Islander is 200 m from a US retailer, on the same movement. The San Martin guide covers the Original Design line.

The 300 m San Martin in steel at $323, 10% off at check, so the struck list sits above it and this figure will move. 40 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 13.2 mm thick, Sea-Gull ST2130, sapphire, a 120-click bezel with a ceramic top ring, BGW-X1 lume, 20 mm lugs, on a 316L bracelet tapering 20 to 16 mm. The Original Design index lists it, though the product page's own breadcrumb says Classic/Dive. The titanium SN0111-T, also 40 mm and 300 m, is $66 more and 0.5 mm shorter, and the better watch if weight matters. At 48 mm lug-to-lug this one wants a wrist near 7 inches; the 62mas at 46.5 mm does not.

The diver to buy at $349 over the Seiko at $350: sapphire and 200 m where the SRPD55 has Hardlex and 100 m, on the same NH35 architecture. 40 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 13.5 mm thick, flat sapphire with anti-reflective coating on the underside, a 120-click bezel with a sloped ceramic insert carrying C3 lume, on a steel bracelet. The wave dials in Maroon, Blue, Green and Warm Grey were in stock on the check date; Silver-White was out. It is 2 mm longer across the lugs than the Seiko, and that is the trade. The Northport at $449 is the same brand's Miyota 9015 diver, 1 mm thinner. The warranty is 1 year.

The Hudson is a $349 diver whose page gives no movement, no lug to lug and no thickness, and all 3 dials were out of stock at check, so the table shows dashes and the buyer should wait for the page to say more. What it does say: 40 mm, a brushed mesh bracelet with quick-release bars and a 20-18 mm taper, box sapphire, a 120-click bezel with a curved luminous sapphire insert, lumed dial, date and rehaut, 200 m. The alternative for the same money is the Bayport, which publishes its 48 mm length and 13.5 mm thickness and names its NH35. The trade is three unknowns against a known watch at the same price.

$349 buys the first stated USA assembly on the page and a solar movement that needs no winding: 40 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 10.4 mm before the crystal (12.2 mm with it), 20 mm lugs, Epson VS42, 100 m, single-domed sapphire with AR, two straps in the box. The trade is the movement: for $34 less the Seiko is mechanical, and for $50 less the Boldr is titanium, 200 m and 4 mm shorter. Vaer's field range is the widest here by price: the S5 quartz at $189, the C3 solar at 36 mm and $319, the A5 automatic at $599 and the A12 Dirty Dozen at $1,099 on a Sellita SW260-1, Swiss-assembled and sold out on the check date. The Vaer guide has the table.

A dress quartz at $350 list and $280 on Bulova's own sale on the check date, this far down because of the sheet: 40 mm, 20 mm lugs, mineral crystal, and no lug-to-lug or thickness published. Bulova's page says splash resistant; the 30 m in the table is the brand's usual rating, not a figure on the page. The Tissot PRX quartz at $450 is the alternative for $100 more on list, with sapphire, 100 m and a published thickness; the Timex Waterbury at $149 is the dress quartz for less. The Sutton's trade is that almost nothing about it is stated; the return is the sale price.

The world-time GMT at $379, and the one to buy over the Melville if the watch will swim: 200 m to the Melville's 100 m at the same price. 40 mm, Seiko NH34 caller GMT with a 40 h reserve per the page, flat sapphire, 20 mm lugs, a rotating world-time bezel on an aluminium insert, an H-link bracelet tapering to 18 mm, lumed numerals and all 4 hands; lug to lug and thickness are not on the page. ISL-316, ISL-317 and ISL-318 were in stock; the green ISL-193 was out. The alternative for the same $379 is the Melville, with a fixed bezel and a sapphire display back. The trade is two dimensions the page does not give.

The office GMT at $379: 100 m, the lowest rating of the 5 Islander GMTs, which is the reason to buy the GMT Dive at $369 or the Calabro at $379 instead if it will swim. 40 mm, 47.5 mm lug to lug, 20 mm lugs, Seiko NH34 caller GMT with a 40 h reserve, sapphire front and back, fixed bezel, on a leather strap; thickness is not on the page. ISL-212 grey and ISL-222 blue were in stock; ISL-211 white was out. The alternative for the same money is the Calabro, 200 m with a world-time bezel and no display back. The trade is a view of the movement for 100 m of rating.

The fullest spec sheet under $500, and the price needs its caveat first: $389 on the check date, shown at 30 percent off, so the figure is a promotional snapshot. Grade 5 titanium and 300 m, which nothing else under the line has. 40 mm, 47.5 mm lug-to-lug, 13.1 mm thick, PT5000 automatic (a Sellita SW200 version is also offered), sapphire without a cyclops, a ceramic bezel, on a grade 5 titanium bracelet tapering from 20 to 16 mm with a grade 2 fly-adjust clasp. It sits in the Original Design collection, not the homage line. San Martin does not state where the watches are assembled beyond its Dongguan address; the Vaer D4 at $429 is the alternative that does.

The $395 diver on the Miyota 8205, and the one where $54 more buys a better calibre: the Northport's 9015 is thinner and runs at 28,800 bph. 39 mm, 47 mm lug to lug, 13 mm thick (13.5 mm to the top of the domed sapphire), 200 m, 20 mm lugs, a bidirectional dual-time bezel on a ceramic insert, on a 20-18 mm bracelet with a 4-position micro-adjust; colourways ISL-250, -252, -299 and -300. The alternative for the money is the ISL-94 at $349, on a Seiko NH36 in an SKX-size case. The trade is a lower-beat Miyota in Islander's own case against a Seiko calibre in an SKX-size one.

The one integrated-bracelet watch under $1,000 in the data, at $399, and the shortest San Martin at 44.5 mm lug-to-lug on a 40 mm case, the same figure as the Islander 38 mm diver. 10.55 mm thick, 100 m, sapphire, Miyota 90S5, on a solid 316L bracelet with a 25.5 mm attachment tapering to 18 mm and a butterfly clasp with hidden push-buttons, BGW9 X1 lume. The Original Design index lists it; its page breadcrumb says Classic/Mechanical. The SN0144 is $29 more on a conventional 20 mm lug with the same movement, so the choice is whether you will ever want to change the strap, which here you cannot.

Buy the Swordfish if there is one to buy; every variant showed sold out on 19 September 2026, and Zelos sells in drops and does not restock. The November 2025 listing was $399 (earlier Swordfish 40 runs were $349): 40 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 12 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Seiko NH35, 200 m, flat sapphire with inner AR, a 120-click ceramic bezel, C3 or BGW9 lume by dial. A 42 mm and titanium or bronze versions ran $399 to $549. On paper it is 1 mm thinner than either Islander, with a ceramic bezel and no day-date, for $50 less than the Northport. In practice the comparison is with whichever one is buyable the week you look.

The thinnest mechanical watch on the page at 10.1 mm, and the sport watch to buy at $428 if the divers above are too much case. Miyota 90S5, 39 mm, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 100 m, sapphire with anti-reflective coating, BGW-X1 lume, on a 5-link 316L bracelet tapering from 20 to 16 mm with a fly-adjust clasp. The Jianzhan dial is a ceramic-glaze pattern; the family also has coin-pattern, enamel and mother-of-pearl dials, and a power-reserve version on the Miyota 9132. Against the SN0111-T it gives up 200 m and titanium for 3 mm of thickness and a dress-capable case. The Seiko Cocktail Time at $475 is the dress alternative, 1.7 mm thicker with half the water resistance.

The solar diver to buy at $429, and the middle of three answers Vaer gives to one design. Stated as USA assembled: 39 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 11.96 mm thick (13.18 mm with the crystal), 200 m, single-domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating, Super-LumiNova X1 in 20 layers, a lumed ceramic bezel, 20 mm lugs, two straps, Epson VS22 solar quartz. The same case is $729 as the D5 with a Miyota 9015 and $239 as the Hong Kong-assembled DS2 quartz; a 42 mm version is $449 to $479. The alternative for the money is the Islander Northport at $449, a 9015 automatic on sapphire. The D4's trade is the quartz; what it keeps is the assembly line.

$445 at list, $356 on Spinnaker's own site on the check date, and the bracket goes by the list figure. 39 mm, 47 mm lug-to-lug, 13 mm thick, Seiko NH34 caller, 150 m, sapphire, a bracelet with a rubber strap in the box. The page does not describe the bezel. The 42 mm Bradner GMT at $490 is the same movement in a 50 mm lug-to-lug, 15 mm thick case with an internal bezel. Spinnaker prices vary by colourway on the same page, so trust the figure on the variant you pick. For $50 more the Seiko SSK001 is the name with Hardlex; for $130 more the Nodus is assembled in Los Angeles.

The cheapest Miyota 9015 diver in this data, and the automatic to buy at $449 if sapphire is a condition. 28,800 bph, 40.5 mm, 47 mm lug-to-lug, 12.5 mm thick, 200 m, flat sapphire with anti-reflective coating, BGW9 lume, a coin-edge 120-click bezel with a luminous sapphire insert, and a screw-link bracelet tapering 20 to 16 mm; the Seafoam (ISL-155) and Ocean Blue (ISL-195) dials were in stock on the check date. Against the Bayport at $349 on the NH35, the extra $100 buys the high-beat movement, 1 mm less thickness and the sapphire insert. A 37 mm Northport at $429 was out of stock in every dial. The warranty is 1 year, which is the trade against Citizen's 5.

The Cocktail Time on a strap, and $25 under the SRPB41 bracelet version on the main list for the identical watch. Seiko 4R35 automatic with hand-winding and hacking, 40.5 mm, 11.8 mm thick, 50 m, box-shaped Hardlex, 20 mm lugs, blue dial, $450 on seikowatches.com under the J1 suffix. Seiko publishes no lug-to-lug. Buy this one over the SRPB41 if the watch will live on leather anyway; the bracelet is all the $25 buys. The San Martin SN0144 at $428 is the alternative for less, 1.7 mm thinner, with sapphire and 100 m. The trade is Hardlex and 50 m, and the argument, as with the SRPB41, is the dial.

The only Swiss-made watch under $500 in this data, and at $450 the quartz answer to the Tsuyosa's shape. Swiss quartz, three hands and date, 40 mm, 10.4 mm thick, 100 m, sapphire, Super-LumiNova on the hands, 316L steel with an integrated bracelet on a 12 mm attachment. Tissot publishes no lug-to-lug. The PRX Powermatic 80 automatic in the same case is $850 on tissotwatches.com, 10.93 mm thick; the $484 one incumbent list carries for it is a 2024 number. Against the Citizen Tsuyosa at $495, both are 40 mm, which is the one dimension both makers publish. The PRX's trade is the battery; what it keeps over the Citizen is Swiss made, a published thickness and $45.

The black Tsuyosa, and the retailer's sheet fills in the two figures Citizen's own page leaves blank: 45 mm lug-to-lug and 12 mm thick, from Long Island Watch. Citizen 8210 automatic, 40 mm, 50 m, sapphire with anti-reflective coating, integrated bracelet, $475 list and $356 on sale there, sold out on the check date; the black page on citizenwatch.com returned a 404. The blue NJ0150-56L on the main list is $495 list and $396 on Citizen's sale, so colour moves the list price by $20. The Tissot PRX quartz at $450 is the alternative in the shape; the Tsuyosa's trade is 50 m.

The dress watch on the list, and the one with a Seiko name at $475: 4R35 automatic with hand-winding and hacking, 40.5 mm, 11.8 mm thick, 50 m, box-shaped Hardlex, 20 mm lugs, blue dial on a bracelet, on seikousa.com under the J1 suffix (the plain SRPB41 URL returns a 404 on the US site). Seiko publishes no lug-to-lug. The SRPB43 is the same watch on a leather strap at $450. Hardlex is the stated exception to the sapphire rule. The San Martin SN0144 at $428 is the alternative: 1.7 mm thinner, twice the water resistance, sapphire, and a bracelet with a fly-adjust clasp. The Cocktail Time's trade is all of that, and its argument is the dial.

The integrated-bracelet automatic to buy at $495 list, and $396 on Citizen's own sale on the check date, which is the figure that matters. Citizen (Miyota) 8210 automatic as the page lists it, 40 mm, 50 m, sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Citizen does not publish the lug-to-lug or the thickness, and the 9.1 mm on the page is a band figure, not a lug width, so those columns are dashes. The blue NJ0150-56L is the reference fetched; the black NJ0150-56E is $475 at Long Island Watch (sale $356, sold out). The alternative in the same shape is the Tissot PRX quartz below at $450, Swiss-made, with a battery. The Tsuyosa's trade is two blank columns and 50 m.

The pilot's watch of the range at $499: 39.5 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 11.5 mm thick, 100 m, Miyota 82S0 automatic behind a sapphire display back, UltraHex titanium, lume on the chapter ring, on black TecTuff leather with a Hex-Link titanium bracelet optional. Medallion Yellow and Polaris White are the same price. The 82S0 is from the older Miyota 8200 family rather than the 9000 series in the dearer Resolutes, and the $190 step up to the Resolute 36 is mostly that movement and 2 mm of thickness. Nodus's Sector II Pilot at $550 is the steel alternative, 38 mm by 47 mm with a day-date on a Seiko NH36; the RZE is titanium, 1 mm shorter and $51 less.

The 2026 Spinnaker, listed March 2026, and the only one on a high-beat movement: Miyota 9039, 28,800 bph, hacking, no date, in a 40 mm case at 47 mm lug-to-lug and 11 mm thick, the thinnest in the range by 2 mm. 150 m, sapphire with AR, Super-LumiNova, 20 mm lugs, $500 for the Royal Splash; the 145th-anniversary colourways are $450. The page does not describe the bezel. $500 is the top of the under-$500 bracket exactly, on the line rather than inside it. The Islander Northport at $449 runs the dated Miyota 9015 at 200 m and 12.5 mm; the Vaer D4 at $429 is solar, 39 mm and US-assembled. The Fleuss 40's case is the thin one.

The cheapest Unimatic at $515 (€430), and the way to have the Quattro case for $140 less than the automatic: 40 mm, 49 mm lug-to-lug, 12 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 300 m, Seiko VH31A quartz with a sweeping seconds hand, 2.8 mm flat sapphire, fixed monoblock bezel, Super-LumiNova C1, sandblasted 316L, on a black nylon two-piece quick-release strap. Numbered in yearly batches. Against the UC4 Classic it is the same case with quartz in place of the NH35A and sandblasted rather than brushed, 1.7 mm thinner. The Vaer C5 at $349 is the solar field watch for $166 less, at 100 m and 1 mm shorter; the Unimatic's $166 is 200 m of rating and the Milan assembly.

The Miyota 9015 skin diver to buy at $529, and 2 mm thinner than the 42 mm SKX-platform Islander because of that movement. 40 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 11 mm to the case top (11.5 mm to the crystal apex), 150 m, single-domed sapphire, lumed ceramic bezel insert, beads-of-rice bracelet tapering 20 to 18 mm. Islander does not state where its automatics are assembled; the warranty is one year. Out of stock on the check date. The Nodus Sector II Sport at $525 is the alternative for the money with the assembly line filled in and a smaller case; the Islander's answer is the 9015 and the bracelet. Rest of the range in the Islander guide.

A Miyota 9015 at 300 m for $529 is the strongest sheet under $600 on the page, with the Zelos condition attached: every Mako variant was sold out on the check date, and the brand sells in drops and does not restock. The February 2025 listing: 40 mm, 47 mm lug-to-lug, 12.2 mm case (14.8 mm with the domed crystal), 20 mm lugs, sapphire with inner AR, a sapphire bezel insert, C3 and BGW9 lume. The Mako 300m GMT ran $629 to $729 and meteorite dials $559 to $629. Read it as the price and spec to expect from the next run. For the same $529 the Islander Port Jefferson has the same movement, half the rating and a beads-of-rice bracelet, and was also out of stock.

$595 buys the cheapest true GMT on the list, by $204. 40 mm, Miyota 9075 with an independently jumping local hour, 200 m, flat sapphire, a bidirectional bezel with a lumed sapphire insert, a bracelet tapering 20 to 18 mm with a seven-position clasp. Islander does not publish lug-to-lug or thickness, so the table carries dashes and the buyer carries the risk. The blue ISL-238 was in stock on the check date; white and black were out. Against the brand's own $369 caller, the $226 buys the jumping hour hand in a 40 mm case rather than 42 mm. For $20 less the Nodus Sector II is a caller with published dimensions and a US assembly line. Warranty one year.

The automatic field watch to buy at $599 over the Hamilton three entries down, if 100 m and an automatic matter more than the name. 40 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 10.4 mm thick, Miyota 9015, 100 m, single-domed sapphire, two straps, stated as USA assembled on the product page. Against the Khaki Field Mechanical it is an automatic rather than a hand-wound, 100 m rather than 50 m, 1 mm longer lug-to-lug and 0.9 mm thicker, for $76 less. The A5 Tactical is $659 and the 38 mm A5 Atlas $699; the same case with a solar movement is the $349 C5. The Vaer guide has all eleven lines.

The quartz Uno at $620 (€520), and the sensible way into the diver if the automatic's $140 buys nothing you want: 40 mm (41.5 mm across the bezel), 49 mm lug-to-lug, 13.2 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 300 m, Seiko VH31A, 2.5 mm flat sapphire, a unidirectional 120-click countdown bezel with a matte black insert, Super-LumiNova C1, sandblasted 316L, black nylon two-piece strap. Numbered in yearly batches. The UC1 Classic is the same case with the NH35A, a double-domed crystal and C3 lume for $140 more; the sheet is otherwise identical. The Vaer D4 solar at $429 is the alternative that never needs a battery, at 200 m and 3 mm shorter.

The skeleton automatic at $625 list and $500 on Bulova's own sale, and half the sheet is blank: 40 mm, 20 mm lugs, 30 m, domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating, no lug-to-lug or thickness published. Bulova's page gives 21 jewels and a 42-hour reserve and does not name the calibre; the Miyota 82S0 family is an inference from the jewel count. The Charlie Paris Initial Cœur Ouvert at $695 is the open-heart alternative for $70 more with every dimension stated and a named Miyota 82S7. The Sutton's trade is the unnamed movement and the two dashes; the return is the sale price, $195 under the Charlie Paris.

The chronograph to buy under $750 for a small wrist: 45 mm lug-to-lug on a 39 mm case, 10.9 mm thick before the crystal, 100 m, and $645 as charlie-paris.com shows it to US buyers (€425 on steel). Seiko VK64 meca-quartz, domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating, Berlaglow lume on hands and indices, 20 mm tool-free straps in steel, nylon or leather. The Furlan Marri Rosso Grigio below is the other VK64 on the page at $725: 38 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 50 m, $80 more. The trade is a quartz heart under mechanical pushers, which is what meca-quartz means; the return over the Furlan Marri is 100 m and $80.

The automatic field Unimatic at $655 (€550): 40 mm, 49 mm lug-to-lug, 13.7 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 300 m, Seiko NH35A, 2.8 mm flat sapphire, fixed monoblock bezel, Super-LumiNova C3, brushed 316L, a screw-down caseback engraved with a rosa dei venti, on a black heavy-duty NATO. It is the UT4 with the automatic and a brushed finish for $140 more, 1.7 mm thicker. Nodus's Sector Deep runs the same NH35 at $650 in a 38 mm, 47 mm case rated to 500 m, so the Unimatic's price is the case and the Milan assembly, not the movement. The UC2 is the same watch 2 mm smaller if 49 mm is too long.

The original Aquascaphe, and from €600 the cheapest route to a sapphire bezel insert in the range. 39 mm, 47 mm lug to lug, 13 mm thick with the dome and 11 mm without it per the brand, Miyota 9039, 200 m, double-domed sapphire, unidirectional 120-click bezel, Super-LumiNova C1, on FKM rubber Sport; the Blue Gilt is the same price, and beads-of-rice or flat-link bracelets are what lift the 'From' figure. The alternative for €30 more is the MK2 39.5 mm, 0.5 mm larger, 0.1 mm thinner, with BGW9 lume and a date option. Keep the €30 only if the date and the lume grade mean nothing to you.

The open-heart dress automatic at $695 as shown to US buyers (€445 on leather, €485 on the bracelet), 10.2 mm thick. Citizen Miyota 82S7 with a 40-hour reserve, 40 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 30 m, sapphire with anti-reflective coating, transparent caseback, 20 mm tool-free straps in leather, steel or rubber. The Jour/Nuit and Initial 36 variants run €445 to €525. The Bulova Sutton skeleton below at $625 is the alternative for $70 less, an open-worked Miyota on domed sapphire with no lug-to-lug published; the Charlie Paris's trade is 30 m, and its return is a full spec sheet and a named calibre.

The diver to buy at $699 for the case: 39 mm with a 37 mm bezel, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 10.3 mm plus a 1.1 mm domed crystal, and 200 m. The 2026 relaunch under new ownership moved the crystal and bezel insert from acrylic to sapphire. Miyota 9039, on a bracelet tapering 20 to 16 mm with a five-position clasp. On the check date it was on pre-order with September shipping, and the warranty is 12 months. Three incumbent lists quote it at $389 to $500. The Traska Commuter at $700 is the alternative for $1 more, 100 m and a hardened case; the Neptune's trade is the warranty. The Lorier guide lists the discontinued models too.

From €630, the Aquascaphe MK2 is the watch that made Baltic's name, and the one entry here without a dollar price. The Besançon brand designs in France and sells direct plus through around 30 retailers. 39.5 mm (a 37 mm variant exists), 47 mm lug-to-lug, 12.9 mm thick, Miyota 9039 or 9015 with date, 200 m, double-domed sapphire. Baltic shows no dollar figure, so the number stays as listed. The Lorier at $699 is the nearest thing in shape and rating, 1 mm shorter and a good deal thinner. The Baltic guide has 16 current models, including the €385 HMS and the micro-rotor MR Classic.

The green Alpinist, and the price is a retailer's: seikousa.com and seikoluxe.com both returned 404s on the check date, Jomashop showed $725 retail and $699 selling, out of stock, and an authorised dealer also listed $725. Seiko 6R35 automatic, 39.5 mm, 46.4 mm lug-to-lug (from the identical-case SPB117), 13.2 mm thick, 200 m, sapphire, an inner compass bezel, 20 mm lugs. The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical at $675 is the alternative for $50 less, hand-wound, 50 m and 3.7 mm thinner; the Alpinist's answer is 200 m and an automatic. The trade is a green dial that appears discontinued in the US, so check the number before buying the watch.

$729 buys the Lorier's numbers with a stated assembly line and no waiting: 39 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 11.9 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Miyota 9015, 200 m, flat sapphire, a polished ceramic coin-edge bezel, 25 layers of BGW9 on the dial and X1 on the hands, USA assembled per the product page. Against the Lorier it is $30 more and 1.6 mm thicker at the same lug-to-lug, and it was not marked pre-order or sold out. Vaer's warranty is two years, original owner only. The solar D4 in the same case is $429 and on the under-$500 list; the Vaer guide puts all eleven lines in one table.

The watch to buy at $735 for a hardened case, and the one most often quoted at the wrong price: two incumbent lists have it at $375 to $400. Seventh generation (Ref. 1187): 40.5 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 10.5 mm case and 11.9 mm with the box sapphire, Miyota 9039 or 9015 with date, 200 m, ceramic bezel insert, on a bracelet tapering 20 to 16 mm. The hardening is proprietary, quoted at about 1,200 HV, no trade name. Assembly location is not stated; the warranty is three years, transferable. Every colourway showed unavailable on the check date. The Unimatic UC1 at $760 is the alternative, 300 m on an NH35; the Traska's trade is availability. See the Traska guide.

The Classic in CuAl8 bronze, and as with the Tourer the premium (€45 here) buys the case metal alone. 39 mm, 47 mm lug to lug, 13 mm thick, Miyota 9039, 200 m, double-domed sapphire, unidirectional 120-click bronze bezel with a sapphire insert, Super-LumiNova C1, €645 in Brown, Blue Gilt or Black, on FKM rubber Sport with a bronze buckle. The dimensions and movement match the €600 steel Classic exactly. The alternative for €15 less is the MK2 39.5 mm in steel, with BGW9 lume and the date option. The trade is a case that patinates against one that does not, and C1 lume against BGW9.

The 300 m diver to buy at $760 if two blank columns are acceptable: Unimatic publishes no lug-to-lug or thickness, and the 49 mm and 13.6 mm in the table are a review's measurements. 40 mm (41.5 mm across the bezel), Seiko NH35, 2.5 mm double-domed sapphire, 120-click bezel with an anodised aluminium insert, on a nylon NATO, $760 on the maker's US storefront (€640 in Europe), 24-month warranty. The UC2 at $655 is the 38 mm fixed-bezel version, and the U1-AEG limited edition of 250 is $900 in the same case. The Traska Freediver at $735 is the alternative for the money, with the figures published and 100 m less. The Unimatic guide has the GMT and chronograph editions.

The only Swiss movement in the regular lines, and at $760 (€640) the same price as the UC1, so the choice is quartz with a second zone against an automatic without one: 40 mm, 49 mm lug-to-lug, 22 mm lugs, 300 m, a Ronda 515.24D quartz GMT with a roughly 45-month battery life per the brand, 2.5 mm flat sapphire, unidirectional 120-click countdown bezel, Super-LumiNova C1, sandblasted 316L, black nylon two-piece strap. No review fetched gives a thickness for this reference, so the column is blank rather than borrowed. The Vaer G5 at $989 is the automatic true GMT for $229 more; the Islander NH34 callers start at $369.

Not orderable on the check date, and listed because the price is real and the batch model is what to understand first. Halios sells in pre-order batches that close; the December and January batch had, with delivery estimated for late December 2026 or early January 2027. Titanium only in this generation: 40 mm with a fixed bezel, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 12.4 mm thick, Sellita SW200-2 no-date, 200 m, double-domed sapphire, $765 on rubber or $930 on the titanium bracelet. The rotating-bezel version is 41 mm at $805 and $970. Assembled and shipped from Vancouver per the brand. The Formex Field at $975 is the titanium Sellita alternative; the Halios's trade is the wait. The Halios guide explains the ordering model.

The Aquascaphe for anyone who wants 200 m under 12 mm: at 11.9 mm it is the thinnest of the divers, 1.1 mm under the Classic and 1 mm under the MK2, because the bezel sits under the crystal rather than on the case. 39 mm, 47 mm lug to lug, Miyota 9039, single-domed sapphire, Super-LumiNova BGW9, from €670 in Blue, Black or Black PVD, with an internal bidirectional 60-minute bezel turned by a second crown at 2. The alternative for €40 less is the MK2 39.5 mm with an external unidirectional bezel. The trade is that an internal bezel turns both ways and needs the second crown to move; it times a parking meter better than a dive.

Not on the brand's site on the check date, and in because the price and the successor are both facts: $775 on the bracelet, from a 2021 owner's review, and a Series II that Halios's upcoming page puts at the very end of 2026. 39 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 12.4 mm thick, Sellita SW200-1 no-date, 200 m, domed sapphire, a bidirectional bezel with a sapphire insert. The lug-to-lug is 1.5 mm longer than the 40 mm Seaforth IV's, and the Seaforth at $765 is the Halios you can join a batch for. The Seaforth is the one without the rotating bezel; the Fairwind is the one you cannot order.

The most expensive RZE, and the one where the dial is the price: $779, 40 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 10.5 mm thick, 100 m, Miyota 90S5, UltraHex titanium rated by the maker at about 1,200 Hv, on a titanium bracelet with QUIKCLIQ deployant and on-the-fly micro-adjust. The White Enamel is a heated-enamel dial and was out of stock at check; 4 other dials were in stock on the feed at the same price. Formex's Field Automatic 40 at $975 is the titanium field watch above it, 40 mm by 46.6 mm and 10.6 mm on a Sellita SW200-2 with 150 m; the RZE is $196 less for a Japanese movement and an enamel dial.

The true GMT to buy at $799, the cheapest here and the thinnest of the three by case: 39 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 10.7 mm case plus a 1.45 mm domed crystal, Miyota 9075 with an independently jumping local hour, date, 100 m, sapphire crystal and sapphire bezel insert, on a bracelet tapering 20 to 16 mm. The 2026 relaunch moved the whole core collection from acrylic to sapphire. On pre-order with September shipping on the check date; the warranty is 12 months, the shortest here. The Nodus Contrail at $900 is the alternative true GMT: 200 m and a 24-month warranty for $101 more. The GMT list puts it against the $575 Nodus caller and the $989 Vaer.

The chronograph at $840 (€730), an edition of 250, and the longest Unimatic at 51 mm lug-to-lug by 2 mm, which settles it for most wrists under 7 inches before the movement comes into it. 40 mm, 13.7 mm thick, 300 m, Seiko VK64 meca-quartz (battery timekeeping, mechanical chronograph module), 2.5 mm double-domed sapphire, a unidirectional 120-click bezel with a sandblasted aluminium insert, Super-LumiNova C1, brushed 316 steel, olive drab seatbelt NATO with a spare black NATO. Lug width is not stated on the page. Lorier's Gemini at $499 is a hand-wound mechanical chronograph for $341 less; the Unimatic's $840 is the case, the rating and the number on the caseback.

€740 including German VAT, €621.85 without it, the figure a buyer outside the EU pays before duties; Steinhart has no dollar storefront. 39 mm, 46.78 mm lug-to-lug, 12.5 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, a Sellita SW200-1 in élaboré grade, 300 m, domed sapphire with double AR inside, a unidirectional bezel with a ceramic insert. The rating is 100 m more than the Traska Freediver's, the case 1.5 mm smaller and the lug-to-lug 1.22 mm shorter. The Freediver at $735 is the dollar-priced alternative with a hardened case and a three-year warranty; the Steinhart's trade is a price that is a conversion and a customs form away.

The integrated-bracelet Tissot to buy at $850, which is the US list after the 2025 rise and the reason the $484 and $675 on the older lists no longer hold. Powermatic 80, an ETA C07-based automatic with an 80-hour reserve and a Nivachron balance spring, 40 mm, 10.93 mm thick, 100 m, sapphire, black dial. Tissot publishes no lug-to-lug, and the attachment is 12 mm, integrated. The quartz PRX in the same case is $450 and the 35 mm Powermatic is $795. The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38 at $845 is the alternative for the money with a published lug-to-lug; the PRX's trade is that blank column.

The Swiss-movement diver to buy at $875: the deepest rating among the Swiss entries, and $100 under the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba, which is 100 m. The 40 mm case dates from 2024: 12.48 mm thick, Powermatic 80 with an 80-hour reserve, 300 m, sapphire, unidirectional bezel with a mineral glass insert, 20 mm lugs, on a bracelet. No lug-to-lug is published. The 43 mm Seastar in ceramic is $925. It sits beside the PRX because they are different families at different prices, not a doubling. The Nodus Contrail at $900 is the alternative for the money: 200 m, a true GMT, a published lug-to-lug and an assembly claim; the Seastar's answer is 300 m and the Swiss movement.

A 300 m GMT at $895, the maker's US price, and a caller: the Seiko NH34 sets the 24-hour hand independently and leaves the hour hand tied to the minutes. 40.5 mm, 47.5 mm lug-to-lug, 13.5 mm thick with the 3 mm domed sapphire, 20 mm lugs, a fixed bezel with the 24-hour scale on the flange, an exhibition back, on a bracelet with tool-free straps. On pre-order for early November on the check date. The Lorier Hyperion at $799 is the alternative: a true GMT with a jumping local hour, 100 m, 2.8 mm thinner. The Concordia's trade is the caller layout in exchange for 200 m more water.

A 2020 listing, sold out, and here because its figures are the only Zelos GMT under $1,000 on record: 40 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 11 mm without the crystal, 200 m, an ETA 2893 Elaboré automatic and a 48-click bidirectional bezel with a lumed sapphire insert, $899. Meteorite dials were $1,049 to $1,099. The 2025 to 2026 Horizons are 43 mm three-handers at $449 to $549, so a buyer searching the name will find a different watch. Under $1,000 the Lorier Hyperion at $799 runs a Miyota 9075 true GMT at 39 mm and 46 mm lug-to-lug, and the Nodus Contrail at $900 gives 200 m on the same movement; both are current.

Sold out in all five colourways on the check date, restock estimated for March 2027, so the $900 is a fact about that batch; the watch to buy is the next one. Nodus's true GMT: 40.5 mm, 46.6 mm lug-to-lug, 11.8 mm thick, Miyota 9075, 200 m, box sapphire, 48-click bidirectional bezel with a lumed sapphire insert, on a bracelet with an extension clasp. Every product page says designed and assembled in Los Angeles; warranty 24 months, transferable. The TrailTrekker, a Raven Watches collaboration on the same movement, was orderable in Clay at $975 for late October. The Lorier Hyperion at $799 is the alternative true GMT taking orders, 100 m, 12 months of warranty. The Nodus guide covers both.

The UC1 as a numbered edition of 250, at $900 (€795), and the $140 over the Classic buys the edition number, the sandblasted insert and dial treatment, C1 lume in place of C3 and a second strap; the case and movement are the same watch. 40 mm (41.5 mm across the bezel), 49 mm lug-to-lug, 13.6 mm thick, 300 m, Seiko NH35A, 2.5 mm double-domed sapphire, a unidirectional 120-click bezel, brushed 316 steel, olive drab seatbelt NATO plus a black NATO. The U1-AEB is the same price. For the money the Halios Seaforth IV titanium at $765 runs a Sellita in titanium; the alternative inside the house is the UC1 at $760 with $140 left over.

The fixed-bezel GMT at $920 (€795), an edition of 250, on the Seiko NH34A caller: the 24-hour hand is the one set independently, and Islander runs the same calibre from $369 and Nodus from $575. 40 mm, 49 mm lug-to-lug, 13.9 mm thick, 300 m, a 2.8 mm flat sapphire with a lumed 24-hour scale on the crystal itself, fixed monoblock bezel, Super-LumiNova C1, brushed 316 steel, olive drab seatbelt NATO plus a black NATO. The scale on the crystal is the part no one else here does. Lorier's Hyperion at $799 runs a Miyota 9075 true GMT for $121 less; the Unimatic's premium is the case, the rating and the edition.

The closed-dial Gentleman, $950 on the bracelet, $75 less than the Open Heart on the under-$1,500 list in the same case. 40 mm, 11.5 mm thick, 21 mm lugs, Powermatic 80 with a silicon balance spring and an 80-hour reserve, 100 m, sapphire with AR on the underside. No lug-to-lug is published. At the same $950 the Visodate below is 1 mm smaller, 1.05 mm thinner and rated 50 m; the Gentleman is the one for a pool. The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38 at $845 is the alternative with a published lug-to-lug; the Gentleman's trade is $105 for the silicon spring and a dial that does not say field.

The thinnest Tissot on the page at 10.45 mm, and the one rated for rain rather than water: 50 m. 39 mm, 20 mm lugs, Powermatic 80 with an 80-hour reserve, sapphire with AR on the underside, lume on the dauphine hands, on the grains-of-rice bracelet, $950. No lug-to-lug is published. At the same $950 the Gentleman is 100 m and 1.05 mm thicker, the whole difference on paper. The Marathon Officer's at $675 in the main list is the other small Swiss 50 m watch here, 3 mm smaller and $275 less; the Visodate's trade is the rating.

€850 including VAT, €714.29 without, for a Swiss GMT at 300 m; nothing with a dollar list price on this page offers that pair. The same 39 mm case as the Ocean One, 46.78 mm lug-to-lug, 12.5 mm thick, with a Sellita SW330-2 in élaboré grade, a caller: the 24-hour hand sets independently. A bidirectional bezel with a blue and red ceramic insert, domed sapphire with double AR. The €110 over the Ocean One buys the fourth hand and the bezel. The Vaer G5 at $989 is the dollar alternative, a true GMT at 200 m; the Steinhart's trade is the caller layout, the currency and the customs.

The only small maker on the list stating Swiss assembly, and the titanium watch to buy at $975 for it: Formex, Biel, says the Field is designed, developed and assembled at its headquarters. 40 mm, 46.6 mm lug-to-lug, 10.6 mm thick, grade 2 titanium hard-coated to 900 HV, Sellita SW200-2 Power+ with a 65-hour reserve, 150 m, sapphire front and back, on velcro or leather (CHF 750 to 895 in the store's own pricing). Not COSC-certified, no Case Suspension System; the Essence line from $1,890 has both. On pre-order, shipping mid-November 2026. Warranty three years. The Halios Seaforth IV at $930 on its bracelet is the titanium Sellita alternative, 200 m, from a closed batch. Details in the Formex guide.

Hamilton's diver is $975 for 100 m, and the rating is the number to weigh before the name. 40 mm, 12.95 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, H-10 with an 80-hour reserve, sapphire, unidirectional 60-minute bezel, screw-down crown, on the bracelet, across ten variants on the US listing. Hamilton publishes no lug-to-lug and no assembly line. The Tissot Seastar 1000 at $875 on the under-$1,000 list is rated to 300 m for $100 less. What the Scuba has over Hamilton's own Khaki Field Auto 38 at $845 is the bezel and the screw-down crown, in a case 1.95 mm thicker (12.95 mm against 11 mm).

The Miyota 9075 GMT you can order from Nodus, in one colour: Clay at $975, matte grey DLC, for late-October delivery at check. Carbon at $1,075, Basecamp and A.C.T. at $925 were sold out. It is made with Raven Watches of Kansas, and Raven is the partner, not a model. 39.5 mm, 46.6 mm lug-to-lug, 11.8 mm, 200 m, box sapphire, and a fixed 24-hour bezel in Cerakote where the Contrail's rotates. It is 1 mm narrower than the Contrail and $75 more in Clay, and the fixed bezel means the second zone is read from the hand alone. The Traska Venturer at $950 and the Vaer G5 at $989 run the same movement; the Venturer's internal 24-hour ring turns.

The most expensive entry, and the true GMT to buy at $989 for water resistance: 200 m, 100 m more than the Lorier. 39 mm, 45.83 mm lug-to-lug, 11.83 mm case and 13.06 mm with the box sapphire, Miyota 9075, 120-click bidirectional 24-hour bezel, two straps, stated as USA assembled. Its lug-to-lug is the shortest of the three GMTs here, a fraction under the Lorier's 46 mm. A 42 mm version is the same price; the caller-style G2 starts at $429. The Formex Field at $975 is the alternative for the money: Swiss assembled, titanium, three hands; the Vaer's answer is the second time zone. The Vaer guide puts the G2 and G5 side by side.

A dollar under the line and not in Lorier's catalogue on the check date: both product URLs return a 404, so the $999 and the figures are from a review of September 2025, the week the Series II was released. 39 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 13.8 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, a Seiko NE88 automatic chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch, 50 m, a 2.1 mm domed Hesalite crystal and a Hesalite tachymeter insert, on the bracelet. The Studio Underd0g at $800 is hand-wound and sapphire, 0.9 mm thinner. The Olympia's trade is Hesalite at $999, and a page that no longer exists.

CHF 835 on certina.com, including Swiss VAT; at 19 September's rate it placed just over $1,000, so it is here rather than beside its 38 mm sibling on the under-$1,000 list. 40.5 mm, 14.1 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Powermatic 80.611 with an 80-hour reserve, 300 m to ISO 6425:2018, sapphire with AR on one side, a unidirectional bezel in steel and ceramic. No lug-to-lug is published. The 45 francs over the 38 buy 2.5 mm of diameter and 0.88 mm of thickness. The Tissot Seastar 1000 at $875 is the dollar-priced alternative on the same calibre family; the Certina's trade is the ISO line and a bill in francs.

The dress watch of the list, and the open heart costs $75 over the closed-dial Gentleman Silicium at $950 in the same case. 40 mm, 11.5 mm thick, 21 mm lugs, Powermatic 80 with an aperture over the balance, 100 m, sapphire with AR on the underside, Super-LumiNova on the hands, on the bracelet, $1,025. No lug-to-lug is published and the page carries no assembly statement. The Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart at $1,245 on the under-$2,000 list is the same idea for $220 more: 40 mm, 11.05 mm, 50 m, on leather. The Hamilton is the thinner watch; the Tissot is the one on a bracelet with a rating fit for a pool.

The cheapest Yema at list and by a distance at the shown price, $697, and sold out in all 3 dials: 39 mm, 11.4 mm thick, 100 m, YEMA2000 in-house automatic with a 42-hour reserve, 2.2 mm double-domed sapphire, fixed bezel, on an integrated-style 24 mm lug, $1,040 list. No lug-to-lug is published and no lume is listed. The Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 and CMM.29 above it are $2,449 to $2,649. At $697 it was the cheapest in-house calibre in the range; at $1,040 list the Formex Field at $975 is the Sellita alternative with a 65-hour reserve, 150 m and a stated 46.6 mm lug-to-lug. The 24 mm integrated-style lug narrows the strap choice, and that is on the sheet.

The most expensive Unimatic at $1,050 (€915), an edition of 250, and the one with a discrepancy on its own page: it lists the movement as a Seiko NH35A with GMT function, where the U4-GMT-AEG page lists an NH34A, and NH34 is Seiko's GMT calibre. 40 mm, 49 mm lug-to-lug, 13.6 mm thick, 300 m, 2.5 mm double-domed sapphire, a unidirectional 120-click bezel with a sandblasted aluminium 24-hour insert, Super-LumiNova C1, brushed 316 steel, seatbelt NATO plus a black NATO. Against the U4-GMT-AEG the $130 buys the rotating 24-hour bezel and the domed crystal, 0.3 mm thinner. The Nodus Contrail at $900 runs a Miyota 9075 true GMT with a rotating bezel for $150 less, when it is in stock.

The GMT to buy at €850 if a jumping local hour is the point. The Miyota 9075 is a true GMT: the local hour moves in one-hour steps while the 24-hour hand holds home time, and the bidirectional 48-click 24-hour sapphire bezel gives a third zone. 39.5 mm, 47 mm lug to lug, 13.8 mm thick, 200 m, Super-LumiNova BGW9, marked new on the site, in Blue, Red, Grey or Green, on the beads-of-rice bracelet with rubber Sport or flat-link as options. The alternative from the same maker is the MK2 39.5 mm it is built on, at €220 less. The trade is 0.5 mm of thickness over any other Aquascaphe, and €220 for the calibre and the bezel.

The Yema with a plain price and the only one with a lug-to-lug: 39 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 10.85 mm thick, 200 m, Sellita SW200 with a 38-hour reserve, unidirectional bezel with an epoxy insert, Super-LumiNova Grade A, 19 mm lugs, $1,090 with no sale shown. The crystal is double-domed hesalite, which scratches and polishes; the Superman Heritage at $1,499 list is the sapphire version at 300 m, 0.45 mm thicker. The Steinhart Ocean One 39 is €740 on the maker's site for a Sellita at 300 m and 46.78 mm; the Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 is €630 at 47 mm on a Miyota 9039. The CMM.10 Navygrafs start at $1,899.

The 50 m rating is the lowest on the list, and it is a rain rating rather than a pool one, so $1,180 buys the day-date and the Nivachron spring, not depth. 40 mm, 12.1 mm thick, 19 mm lugs, Caliber 80 with an 80-hour reserve, sapphire with AR on the underside, blue dial, on the bracelet. No lug-to-lug is published and Mido's page states no lume. Mido's own alternatives are the Multifort M at $1,090 (42 mm, 100 m) and the Ocean Star 200C at $1,360 on the under-$2,000 list; all three sit over $1,000 on the US site. Other Powerwind variants showed $1,250 in a search snippet and were not fetched.

The Farer to buy at $1,220, for the La Joux-Perret G101 in soignée grade and a 45 mm lug-to-lug on a 39 mm case. 11.8 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, boxed sapphire with inner AR, exhibition back, Grade X2 Super-LumiNova with ceramic numerals, on leather or Milanese (£1,095 in the UK). The Alert, Venture and Aurora are the same line at the same price. Designed in London and Swiss made per the brand. For $150 more, the Endeavour Aqua Compressor at $1,370 (41.5 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 12.5 mm, grade 2 titanium, 300 m, twin compressor crowns) was sold out, with the Hecla Hunter Green in stock at the same price: the same lug-to-lug on a case 2.5 mm larger, and three times the rating.

The dress watch of the list and its cheapest entry, bought for the 80-hour H-10 seen through the dial and not for the 50 m rating. 40 mm, 11.05 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, sapphire, on leather, $1,245. Hamilton publishes no lug-to-lug and states no lume. The Tissot Gentleman Open Heart on the under-$1,500 list is the same idea for $220 less: $1,025 on a bracelet, 100 m, 11.5 mm. The Hamilton is 0.45 mm thinner and rated to half the depth. From the same maker, the Khaki Field Titanium Auto 42 at $1,195 is the field alternative (11.45 mm, 100 m, titanium, on leather; the bracelet reference showed no price on the US page).

The Trident most people mean, $1,320 on Christopher Ward's US price on the bracelet, on pre-order on the check date. 40 mm, 47.45 mm lug-to-lug, 11.3 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Sellita SW200-1, 300 m, sapphire with AR, a 120-click unidirectional bezel with a ceramic insert, Grade X1 lume. The 42 mm is the same $1,320, 1.85 mm longer and in stock; the 38 mm is $55 more. At 11.3 mm it is 2.5 mm thinner than the Doxa SUB 200 at $1,290 with 100 m more, on a lug-to-lug 1.45 mm longer. The Doxa is the alternative for the money; the Trident's trade is the wait and the length.

The dress watch at $1,350, built on order in 2 weeks: 39 mm, 20 mm lug, 50 m, Sellita SW300-1 with 42 h and 25 jewels, domed sapphire, a case in Swedish Sandvik steel with a steel or sapphire back, on vegetable-tanned leather. Silver and bottle green dials are also listed. Neither lug-to-lug nor thickness is published, and for a dress watch thickness is the number that decides a cuff. Farer's Solander Lissom is $1,295 at 38 mm, 42.8 mm and 7.95 mm on a hand-wound La Joux-Perret; Furlan Marri's Cornes de Vache is CHF 1,250 at 10.5 mm. The BW003's case is the argument, and the $155 over the Team Heritage buys the SW300-1, a step up Sellita's range.

The three-hand Sealander at $1,375 on the bracelet, and the 2026 version runs the Sellita SW200-2 Power+ where the Tridents run the SW200-1. 39 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 10.9 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 150 m, sapphire with AR, a fixed bezel; pre-order for the end of October on the check date. Against the Trident 38 at the same $1,375: 1 mm larger, 0.1 mm thinner, 150 m less, no bezel, the newer calibre. The Halios Universa II at $995 is the alternative with an SW300-1 and 100 m, when its batch opens. The Sealander's trade is $380 more for 50 m and a maker that ships to a date.

The Swiss GMT under $1,500 at $1,395 on rubber, and a caller: the Sellita SW330-2 sets the 24-hour hand on its own and leaves the hour hand with the minutes. 39 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 11.3 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 150 m, sapphire with AR, a fixed bezel with the 24-hour scale on the dial; pre-order on the check date. The 42 mm is 48.5 mm long at the same thickness. The Traska Venturer GMT at $950 in the main list is the alternative: a true GMT, 10.15 mm, 150 m, $445 less. The Sealander's trade is the caller layout, and $445 for a Sellita rather than a Miyota.

The 40 mm Twelve, $1,495 and on pre-order on the check date, 44.5 mm lug-to-lug, 1.2 mm longer than the 38 and 3.7 mm longer than the 36 for the same money. 9.95 mm thick, Sellita SW200-1 with a 38-hour reserve, 100 m, sapphire with AR, the integrated bracelet, Grade X1 lume. The titanium Twelve 40 is $2,295 on the under-$2,500 list. The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 at $850 on the under-$1,000 list is the integrated-bracelet alternative for $645 less, 0.98 mm thicker with 80 hours against 38; the Twelve's trade is $645 for a published lug-to-lug, a thinner case and a shorter reserve.

$5 under the line, on an authorised retailer's price, because frederiqueconstant.com returned a 403 on the check date and the listing carries no case specs; the table is diameter, movement and price and nothing else. 40 mm, steel, the FC-303 automatic on a Sellita SW200 base, a name taken from the reference prefix rather than a fetched page, white dial on leather, $1,495. A search snippet had Costco at $799.99 for a green-dial bracelet version. The Tissot Gentleman Open Heart at $1,025 in the main list is the dress alternative with a published thickness and rating; the Frédérique Constant's trade is $470 for a sheet this site could not read.

Here at $1,499, a figure the page itself strikes through: yema.com showed $1,004 and "low stock", as it did for every Yema fetched, so the sale is the standing price and this site records the list. 39 mm, 11.3 mm thick, 19 mm lugs, Sellita SW200-1 with a 38-hour reserve, 300 m, 2.6 mm double-domed sapphire, unidirectional aluminium bezel with Yema's bezel lock, Super-LumiNova Grade A. No lug-to-lug is stated. Also offered in 41 mm with 20 mm lugs; the Superman 500 (YSUP23) is not on yema.com. The Navygraf Heritage at $1,090 is the same movement family under a hesalite crystal (39 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 10.85 mm, 200 m). The Superman is the sapphire and the 300 m; the Navygraf is the price.

The titanium pilot with the shortest lug-to-lug on the page after the Serica Parade: 43 mm on a 40 mm case. 10.9 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Sellita SW300-1 Elaboré, 100 m, domed sapphire with a five-layer inner AR, Grade X2 Super-LumiNova, grade 2 titanium with a burnished brown PVD, on suede or leather, $1,525 (£1,350). The Curtis and Hewlett are the same line at the same price. Designed in London, Swiss made per the brand. The Lander IV GMT at $1,575 (39.5 mm, 45 mm, 11.3 mm, SW330-2 Top Grade) was sold out with a return listed for spring 2027; $50 more would have bought the second time zone, had Farer any to sell.

$1,575 buys the longest guarantee on the list, five years, on a Swiss-assembled GMT. Farer, London, 2015, assembles in Switzerland on Sellita and La Joux-Perret movements and prices in pounds, with a dollar storefront at usd.farer.com. The Lander IV is the 39.5 mm GMT: 45 mm lug-to-lug, 11.3 mm thick, $1,575 list on the US site. Every Farer sits above $1,000, so the brand appears on no bracket list here, but its guide is the fullest single-page spec table for the range. For $275 more the Serica is certified; for $600 less the Formex is Swiss too, with a three-hand movement. See the Farer guide.

The bezel GMT, and the Farer to choose over the Barnwell if the second zone is the point. 40 mm, 44.8 mm lug-to-lug, 12.5 mm thick with the boxed sapphire (10.75 mm without), 20 mm lugs, Sellita SW330-2 Top Grade, 200 m, bidirectional 24-click bezel with a sapphire insert, X1 Super-LumiNova, exhibition back, on leather, rubber or Milanese, $1,575 (£1,375). The Nevada Mocha 38 mm, Maze III and Crooms III are the same price. The SW330-2 sets its 24-hour hand independently; the Miyota 9075 in the Traska and Nodus GMTs under $1,000 jumps the local hour, the more useful behaviour when the wearer is the one travelling. Against the Traska Venturer GMT at $950: 50 m more water resistance, an external bezel for an internal one, a Swiss movement for the Miyota, $625 more.

The entry to the range at $1,595, sold out, and the only automatic: 40 mm, Sellita SW400-1 with 38 h and 26 jewels, sapphire, polished bezel over brushed lugs, black perforated calfskin racing strap with a red lining, made in Switzerland. Thickness, lug-to-lug and water resistance are not stated; the specs come from the feed description, so treat the row as medium confidence. For the same money with a full sheet, Farer's Resolute III, $1,220 on a La Joux-Perret G101 at 39 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug and 11.8 mm, is one; MONTA's Noble 40 is $1,895 with 200 m. The Dato-Racer is the racing dial and the name; the sheet has three blanks.

The chronograph to wait for at $1,650, and the page said wait: "gone for now, but returning later this year" on the check date. 39 mm, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 11.8 mm case, 21 mm lugs, TMI NE86 automatic chronograph, 75 m, a fixed tungsten tachymeter bezel on steel hardened to about 1,200 HV, BGW9 lume, on a bracelet tapering 21 to 16 mm. The automatic chronograph alternative is on the under-$2,500 list: the Tissot PRX at $2,150 is 14.54 mm thick, 2.74 mm more, for $500 more. The Traska's trade-off is the 75 m rating, and that you cannot buy one today.

The 300 m GMT on the page at $1,675 on the bracelet (£1,215; £1,050 on rubber), and on pre-order on the check date. 40 mm, 47.5 mm lug-to-lug, 11.7 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Sellita SW330-2 with a 56-hour reserve, sapphire with AR, bidirectional 24-hour bezel with a ceramic insert, Super-LumiNova X1. The Farer Nevada Pine above at $1,575 runs the same SW330-2 at 200 m in a 44.8 mm lug-to-lug: 2.7 mm shorter, 100 m shallower, $100 less. The Christopher Ward is the one for the depth and the bracelet; the Farer is the one that fits a smaller wrist.

A 9 mm automatic dress watch rated to 100 m, $1,745 on the bracelet (€1,075), and the price is for the dial: smoked blue sapphire glass over a Soprod P024. 39.5 mm, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 9 mm excluding the double-domed crystal, 20 mm lugs, sapphire back, Super-LumiNova at 12, 3, 6 and 9, on steel, leather or rubber. The Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart at $1,245 is the mainstream dress automatic on this page, 11.05 mm and 50 m, so the Charlie Paris is 2.05 mm thinner and rated twice as deep for $500 more. The Furlan Marri at $1,550 has the lugs; the Charlie Paris has the rating.

1,000 m in a 39 mm bronze case at $1,750, more than three times the 300 m of the next-deepest entries; nothing else on this page is bought for its depth. 13 mm thick, Soprod P024 with a 38-hour reserve, sapphire, rotating bezel, automatic helium valve, CuAl8 bronze with a 316L caseback, seven interchangeable straps. The page also quotes €1,650 and CHF 1,600 and the store feed lists $1,845; this site takes the page. No lug-to-lug or lug width is published. The steel Depthmasters run $1,050 to $1,355 on the same site, and the Antarctic Diver 38 at $1,050 is on the under-$1,500 list. Swiss Made per its pages. Bronze and 1,000 m are what $1,750 buys; a published lug-to-lug is what it does not.

The world timer to want only for its bezel graphic, since the Thorne is the same watch and could be ordered. 39 mm, 45 mm lug to lug, 11 mm thick, 100 m, Sellita SW331-2 Elaboré, domed sapphire, flat sapphire exhibition back, an internal bidirectional lumed world-time bezel, Grade X1 Super-LumiNova on the dial, $1,775 (£1,550), on St. Venere leather with a Milanese option. Sold out at check. The alternative for the same $1,775 is the Thorne below, on pre-order for 14 October 2026. The trade is an open-ended wait against a sister that ships in October.

The world timer you can order: $1,775 (£1,550), on pre-order at check to ship 14 October 2026. 39 mm, 45 mm lug to lug, 11 mm thick, 100 m, Sellita SW331-2 Elaboré, an internal bidirectional 24-city bezel, Lumicast markers, leather or Milanese; the Thorne Gold and Foxe Gold list at £1,600 ($1,850). The alternative for the same money is the Roché, identical to the millimetre and to the dollar, and sold out. The trade is a bezel graphic; not one number moves between the two.

The cheapest current Monta and the one to wait for, since it was sold out on the check date. 40 mm, 47.8 mm lug-to-lug, 10.5 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Caliber M-22 (Sellita SW300 base) with a 56-hour reserve, 200 m, flat bevelled sapphire, Super-LumiNova BGW9, screw-down crown with guards, on a bracelet with a three-slot quick-adjust clasp, $1,850. Monta, St. Louis, says its calibres are manufactured, assembled and tested in Switzerland. The 47.8 mm lug-to-lug is long for 40 mm, 1.3 mm longer than the Serica 5303's 46.5 mm on a 39 mm case. The Noble 40 at $1,895 is the same case and movement without the field dial; the Noble 38.5 is 9.7 mm and 150 m at $1,895; all sold out. For the same $1,850 the Serica 5303 below adds a certificate and 100 m.

The diver to buy at $1,850 on the sheet: COSC-certified, antimagnetic to 50,000 A/m per the brand, 300 m. 39 mm, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 12.2 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Soprod M100 chronometer, 2 mm double-domed sapphire, ceramic insert with three scales (60-minute, 12-hour, 15-minute countdown), Super-LumiNova C3, on a woven steel bracelet (€1,590). The 5303-2 and -3 dials are the same price. The 5330 Date at $1,990 adds a date and a grey twin-scale insert in the same case; its first series of 200 was sold out. Second Serica here because the Parade and the 5303 are different families; the 6190 at $1,290 is on the under-$1,500 list. The Monta Triumph at the same money is the thinner watch, at 10.5 mm, and states no certificate.

The only Baltic chronograph since the Bicompax retired, and the most expensive at €1,585 on the flat-link bracelet, with beads-of-rice or leather as options and the non-Classic Scalegraph at €1,635. Sellita SW510-M hand-wound chronograph, 39.5 mm, 47 mm lug to lug, 13.5 mm thick, 50 m, double-domed sapphire, fixed aluminium tachymeter bezel, Super-LumiNova BGW9, on the same footprint as the Aquascaphe MK2. The alternative on the same calibre is Farer's Libre at $2,095 (£1,875), rated to 100 m and limited to 100 units. The trade at Baltic is 50 m: this is a chronograph for the desk, and the Farer's extra rating is part of what the extra money buys.

The Triumph in a dinner jacket: the same 40 mm case, 47.8 mm lug-to-lug, 10.5 mm, 200 m, M-22, crown guards and 3-slot bracelet, with a polished fixed bezel and a plain dial, $1,895 in black or blue. Sold out at check. The $45 over the Triumph buys the finish. Against the Noble 38.5 you gain 50 m and 1.5 mm of diameter for 0.8 mm of thickness. The Formex Essence 39 at $1,980 is 45.5 mm lug-to-lug and 10 mm thick on a COSC-certified Sellita, 2.3 mm shorter; the NOMOS Club Campus at $2,070 is 8.5 mm on a calibre of its own. The Noble's reply is 200 m and the clasp.

The entry to the high-end tier and the odd one out on lug width: 24 mm, against 20 mm on every other Zelos. 40 mm, 45.5 mm lug-to-lug, 10.2 mm thick, 50 m, a skeletonised Marvin 700 hand-wound under box sapphire, a sandblasted titanium case with a white Cerakote mid-case, on FKM rubber with a titanium buckle, $1,899. Sold out; the Mokume and Damascus versions were $2,499 and also gone. The Skyraider 40 Skeleton at $2,499 is the same movement in tantalum on a 20 mm lug, 0.3 mm thinner; the $600 is the metal. At 50 m this is a dress watch in a sports case, and the rubber strap should not persuade anyone otherwise.

The Essence to buy if the wrist is under 7 inches: 45.5 mm lug to lug ties the Reef 39.5 for the shortest orderable case (only the sold-out Aria is shorter, at 45.45 mm) and 10 mm is the thinnest bar the 6.9 mm Aria. $1,850 to $1,980 (CHF 1,470 to 1,570) from strap to bracelet, meteorite dials at CHF 1,850 to 1,990, 39 mm, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, Sellita SW200-2 Power+ COSC with a 65-hour reserve, Case Suspension System stated. On pre-order at check. The alternative is the Essence 41, the same watch scaled up by 2 mm and cheaper on a strap. The trade is the wait, and $160 for the smaller size.

The 5303 with a date, $140 more at $1,990 (€1,690), and the $140 also buys the Vesper mesh bracelet and a polar white elastic strap in the box; on the sheet nothing else moves. 39 mm, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 12.2 mm thick, 300 m, Soprod M100 with COSC, double-domed sapphire, a twin-scale (60 minutes and 12 hours) warm grey ceramic insert, Super-LumiNova C3, antimagnetic. The initial series of 200 was sold out at check with a May 2026 delivery stated, so this is a watch to order rather than to buy. The 5303 is the alternative for less if you can do without the date; the Reef 39.5 at $2,085 is the alternative for more, with a Sellita.

The "Baby" Reef, in the store's own naming, is a COSC 300 m diver assembled in Biel at $2,085, with a ceramic insert the owner can swap. 39.5 mm, 45.5 mm lug-to-lug, 11 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, Sellita SW300-1 certified by COSC, sapphire with AR, unidirectional 120-click bezel with an interchangeable zirconium-oxide insert, Super-LumiNova BGW9, on rubber or a screwed-link bracelet with a carbon-composite micro-adjust clasp (CHF 1,760 to 1,890; $2,085 to $2,230 by strap per the store API). The Reef 42 is the same price at 47 mm lug-to-lug and 11.4 mm; the Reef GMT 42 on the SW330-2 is $2,355 to $2,490. The Reef pages do not mention the Case Suspension System the Essence carries. The Serica 5303 at $1,850 on the under-$2,000 list is the same certificate and depth for less; the Formex has the swappable insert and the Biel line.

A Peseux 7001 under a meteorite dial for $2,099, and, unusually for Zelos, in stock: 37 pieces remaining on the check date. 39 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 9.4 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, hand-wound with reworked bridges, 50 m, box sapphire with a display back, Super-LumiNova BGW9 X1, on a 316L bracelet tapering 20 to 16 mm with an external quick-adjust clasp. The Vulcan and mother-of-pearl dials are $1,999. Assembly is not stated on the brand's pages. The same 7001 sits in the Furlan Marri Disco Volante, retired and priced in francs before tax, so that one stays in the notes. The NOMOS Club Campus at $2,070 is the hand-wound at this money with the brand's own calibre and a stated origin; the Zelos is the one with the dial.

The Straum to order first, and the floor of the current range: NOK 25,500 on the steel bracelet, NOK 23,750 on FKM rubber per the feed, in 316L steel. 38.7 mm, 45.7 mm lug to lug, 11.5 mm thick, 100 m, La Joux-Perret G101 with no date and 68 hours, adjusted in 4 positions, Swiss Super-LumiNova Grade A, 8 dial colours at one price. It ships November 2026, the earliest window in the range. The Jan Mayen Titanium is the same sheet in grade 5 for NOK 6,500 more. Buy steel for the bracelet in the price and the earlier date; the titanium's whole case is the metal.