Vertex lists 4 models from £1,792 to £2,900 before VAT, all on Sellita calibres, and on 19 September 2026 only 2 of them could be bought: 14 M36s and 2 MP45s. The M100A and the 600 m M60 AquaLion were sold out, and the range's 5-year guarantee is the longest of the British makers on this site.
Checked 20 September 2026 · list prices on the maker's site that day unless marked street
Vertex was founded in London in 1916 by Claude Lyons and was one of the 12 suppliers of the British Army's wartime field watch, the group collectors call the Dirty Dozen. The name was revived in 2015 and 2016 by Don Cochrane, Lyons's great-grandson, and the current range is that field watch reissued plus the things a reissue grows into: a 40 mm version, a chronometer diver and a monopusher chronograph. It sells direct in sterling with a US store in dollars, and through C.W. Watch Shop and Delray Watch. The site shows prices including VAT with the ex-VAT figure beside it, and every price on this page is that ex-VAT figure from the maker's feed; a UK buyer adds 20%. The guarantee is 5 years worldwide.
The spec sheets settle the dial and the glass. Every model carries a double-domed box sapphire with AR08 and AR06 anti-reflective coatings, and every dial's numerals are moulded blocks of X1-grade Super-LumiNova rather than paint, C3 on the field watches. Cases are brushed 316L with a screw-in crown. Water resistance is 100 m on the M36, M100A and MP45 and 600 m on the M60, which is certified to ISO 6425. Lug width is 18 mm on the M36 and 20 mm on the M100A and M60; the MP45 page does not state one. The box is unusually full: the M36 ships with an expandable metal bracelet, a sand NATO and a leather NATO, the M100A with leather, an Admiralty Grey NATO, a spare NATO and a Peli case, the M60 with a bracelet, a ZA single-strand strap and a rubber dive strap.
Where the watches are made depends on which product page you read. The M36 and M100A pages say manufactured by the brand's atelier in Switzerland; the MP45 and M60 pages say proudly British made, with a Swiss movement. Both statements are recorded here as written, and a buyer who cares which applies to the watch in front of them should ask Vertex, because the site gives 2 answers. The movements are not in doubt: Sellita SW260-1 with small seconds in the M36 and M100A, a COSC-certified SW300-1 in the M60, and the SW510 MP hand-wound monopusher in the MP45.
Founded1916
BasedLondon, United Kingdom (revived 2015/16 by Don Cochrane, great-grandson of founder Claude Lyons)
AssembledMixed statements: M36 and M100A pages say 'manufactured by our atelier in Switzerland'; MP45 and M60 pages say 'proudly British made' with Swiss movements
Read the table by case size and then by stock. The M36 is the reissue at its original 36 mm; the M100A is the same design at 40 mm; the M60 is the 40 mm diver on a ceramic bezel; the MP45 is the 40 mm chronograph with a single pusher. Stock on the check date was 14 for the M36 and 2 for the MP45, with the M100A and M60 sold out, and the variants that are not in the table (Bronze 36 at £1,913, the 12-piece M36 Pressure Edition at £1,888, the DLC M100AC at £2,083, the M60 ND at £2,375 and the M60C compressor at £2,450) were all sold out too.
Price£1,792 on the maker's site (no US price shown)
The Dirty Dozen reissue at its original size, £1,792 before VAT (£2,150 with it), and the Vertex that was in stock, 14 of them: 36 mm, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 11 mm thick, 18 mm lug, 100 m, Sellita SW260-1 with small seconds, moulded C3 numerals, 3 straps in the box. 46.5 mm is long for 36 mm, 3.5 mm longer than Vaer's A12 Dirty Dozen at $1,099, which runs the same SW260-1 at 36 mm, 43 mm and 10.4 mm. Serica's 7505 is $1,290 at 35 mm and 41.5 mm with 200 m and a COSC certificate. The Vertex's argument is the moulded dial, the 3 straps and the name.
Price£2,083 on the maker's site (no US price shown)
The 40 mm field watch, £2,083 before VAT (£2,500 with it), sold out on the check date: 40 mm, 48.5 mm lug-to-lug, 12.2 mm thick, 20 mm lug, 100 m, Sellita SW260-1 in Top execution with a custom Vertex Cal59 rotor weight, moulded C3 dial, and a Peli case with 3 straps in the box. Against the M36 it is 4 mm wider, 2 mm longer, 1.2 mm thicker and £292 more. Formex's Essence 41 is $1,890 at 41 mm, 46.5 mm and 10.6 mm, COSC-certified; MONTA's Triumph is $1,850 at 40 mm, 47.8 mm and 10.5 mm with 200 m. Both are thinner and shorter. The page gives no restock date.
BezelMatte ceramic, dive scale in Super-LumiNova X1
LumeSuper-LumiNova Grade X1
Case material316L marine-grade steel
Price£2,375 on the maker's site (no US price shown)
The diver, £2,375 before VAT (£2,850 with it), sold out: 40 mm, 48.9 mm lug-to-lug, 14 mm thick, 20 mm lug, 600 m and ISO 6425 certified, Sellita SW300-1 with a COSC certificate and 56 hours, a matte ceramic bezel, and a steel bracelet and 2 straps in the box. It is the only Vertex with a chronometer certificate. Sinn's U50 is $3,440 at 41 mm, 47 mm and 11.2 mm with 500 m on the same SW300-1 without the certificate; Formex's Reef 39.5 is $2,085 at 45.5 mm and 11 mm with 300 m and COSC. The Vertex trades 2.8 mm of thickness for 100 m over the Sinn.
Price£2,900 on the maker's site (no US price shown)
The chronograph, £2,900 before VAT (£3,480 with it), 2 in stock on the check date: 40 mm, 48.5 mm lug-to-lug, 14.8 mm thick, 100 m, Sellita SW510 MP hand-wound monopusher with 63 hours, moulded X1 numerals, black leather with rubber and NATO in the box. Studio Underd0g's 03series monopusher is $2,200 (£1,750) on the same SW510 M at 38.5 mm, 44.5 mm and 13.6 mm with 50 m; the Vertex is 4 mm longer, 1.2 mm thicker and rated to twice the depth. Farer's Libre at $2,095 is the 2-pusher version at 38.5 mm and 13.4 mm. The Vertex is the larger and dearer of the 2 monopushers in this site's data.
Vertex is for the buyer who wants the Dirty Dozen dial from a company that supplied the original, in a case whose numerals are cast from lume, with 3 straps and a 5-year guarantee in the box, at £1,792. The M36's 46.5 mm lug-to-lug suits a 6.5 to 7.25 inch wrist despite the 36 mm diameter, and the 40 mm models at 48.5 to 48.9 mm want 7 inches or more. Look elsewhere if you want a 36 mm field watch that sits short, since Vaer's A12 is 43 mm on the same Sellita for $1,099; if you want the maker to say in one voice where the watch was built, since the product pages give 2 answers and Schofield and Fears each give 1; or if you want the M100A or M60 this month, since both were sold out on the check date.
Where it sits against the field
In sterling the M36 at £1,792 and the M100A at £2,083 sit below Fears's Redcliff at £2,458, a La Joux-Perret G100 at 150 m with a British assembly claim and a Hong Kong case disclosed, and below Schofield's Light One at £2,190, a British-machined 40 mm case on a Seiko NH34A GMT. The Vertex answer to both is the Swiss Sellita and the moulded dial. The M60 at £2,375 is the only 600 m watch among the British makers here and the only COSC-certified one; Fears and Schofield stop at 150 m and 200 m. The MP45 at £2,900 is priced above every SW510 chronograph in the data except Massena LAB's Uni-Racer at $3,495, which is 9 mm thick to the Vertex's 14.8 mm and 2-pusher. The high-end ranking places the MP45 on movement class alone, since Vertex publishes no dial or case process of its own.
Questions people ask
Where are Vertex watches made?
The maker's product pages give 2 answers. The M36 and M100A pages say manufactured by the brand's atelier in Switzerland; the MP45 and M60 pages say proudly British made with a Swiss movement. Both are recorded here as written. Vertex is based in London, was founded there in 1916 by Claude Lyons, and was revived in 2015 and 2016 by his great-grandson Don Cochrane.
Is Vertex one of the Dirty Dozen?
Yes. Vertex was one of the 12 suppliers of the British military field watch collectors call the Dirty Dozen, and the M36 is that watch at its original 36 mm on a Sellita SW260-1 with small seconds, £1,792 before VAT. The M100A is the same design at 40 mm. Vaer, founded in 2016, uses the Dirty Dozen name on the same calibre at $1,099; Vertex is the one that made the original.
How much does a Vertex watch cost?
£1,792 to £2,900 before VAT on the maker's feed: M36 £1,792, M100A £2,083, M60 AquaLion £2,375, MP45 monopusher £2,900. The site shows the including-VAT figure first (£2,150 to £3,480) and sells in dollars through its US store. On 19 September 2026 the M36 (14 pieces) and MP45 (2 pieces) were in stock and the M100A and M60 were sold out. Guarantee is 5 years.
