Best watches under $5,000

The one Tudor diver that lands under $5,000 on a bracelet, and the smallest Black Bay. 37 mm, 11.2 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 200 m, MT5400 in-house automatic, COSC, about 70 hours, domed sapphire, unidirectional steel bezel with an aluminium insert and no minute graduations. $4,725 on the bracelet at Exquisite Timepieces and Long's Jewelers, $4,475 on rubber; Tudor shows no US price and publishes no lug-to-lug. From the same maker under the line, the Ranger 39 is $4,025 (MT5402, 12 mm, 100 m; $3,675 on strap) and the Royal 40 $3,675 (MT5633 day-date, 11.4 mm, integrated bracelet). Against the Bremont Supermarine below at $4,150: 3 mm smaller, 0.8 mm thinner, 100 m shallower, and only Tudor states a chronometer certificate.

The thinnest mechanical watch on the page, and the NOMOS Glashütte with a sports rating: 200 m at 8.4 mm on the brand's own DUW 3001, a 3.2 mm automatic. 37 mm, 47.7 mm lug-to-lug, 18 mm lugs, sapphire with AR inside, Super-LumiNova on numerals, indexes and hands, on the steel bracelet, $4,140 on the US store (€2,860 on the international page). The dress alternatives from the same maker are the Metro 38 date at $3,740 (38.5 mm, 45.3 mm lug-to-lug, 7.8 mm, hand-wound DUW 4601, 52 hours, 50 m) and the Tangente neomatik 41 Update at $4,870 (40.5 mm, 49.3 mm, 7.8 mm, DUW 6101 ring date, 50 m); the Club Campus at $2,070 opens the under-$2,500 list. The 47.7 mm lug-to-lug is long for 37 mm; measure before ordering.

The Sixty-Five to buy if the movement matters more than the rating: Oris's own Calibre 400 with a five-day reserve and no date, 100 m, $4,100 on the US site. 38 mm, 19 mm lugs, sapphire domed on both sides with AR inside, unidirectional bezel with the minutes scale on the top ring, on the bracelet. Oris publishes no thickness, lug-to-lug or lume for it, so three cells are dashes. The ProPilot X Calibre 400 in titanium is $4,800 (39 mm, 20 mm lugs, 100 m; the laser-dial version is $5,750 and over). The Aquis Date 41.5 at $2,600 keeps the Sellita-based Calibre 733-1 and 300 m; the $1,500 between them buys the five-day calibre and gives up 200 m of rating.

Exactly $5,000 on the US site, counted as in, and the successor to the SBGW231 most lists still recommend, whose page returns a 404. 37.3 mm, 44.3 mm lug-to-lug, 11.7 mm thick, 19 mm lugs, hand-wound 9S64, box-shaped sapphire with AR inside, steel. Grand Seiko states the water resistance as "splash resistant", which is a description rather than a number, so the WR cell is a dash. The King Seiko SJE109 below at $3,100 is 0.7 mm shorter lug-to-lug, 1.8 mm thinner and automatic; the SBGX261 quartz at $2,700 is the cheaper Grand Seiko, in the under-$2,500 list's notes. The $5,000 buys the hand-wound 9S64 and the Grand Seiko dial; it does not buy a rating you can write down.

The cheapest entry and the only 300 m diver on the page that states lug-to-lug, thickness and lume together: 40.5 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 12 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, $2,550. Caliber M-22 (Sellita SW300 base) automatic, flat bevelled sapphire with a seven-layer AR underside, unidirectional 120-click ceramic bezel with lume, Super-LumiNova BGW9; the aluminium-bezel version is the same price. It missed the under-$2,500 list by $50 and is here because Tudor, Longines and Bremont each leave at least one of those three cells blank. The Atlas GMT at $2,150 (38.5 mm, 47 mm, 10.7 mm, 150 m) is the sibling on the under-$2,500 list. What $2,550 does not buy is a certificate or a calibre of Monta's own.

A COSC GMT rated to 300 m for $3,499, and the thickest entry here at 14 mm. 40 mm, 47.8 mm lug-to-lug, 20 mm lugs, RR1203-C automatic GMT, titanium, AR sapphire, bidirectional ceramic bezel with Super-LumiNova, 28 micro gas tubes for the lume, with import duties included when the page is read from a US address (£2,920 from the UK; the site prices by location). The Marvelight at $2,549 (40 mm, 46.6 mm, 12.45 mm, 100 m, RR1103-C COSC, 904L steel, mu-metal shield, 14 gas tubes) is Ball's three-hander. Against the Longines Spirit Zulu Time at $3,550: 200 m deeper, a stated certificate and a published thickness, for less money. The 14 mm is the trade.

Longines' GMT in the smaller case, $3,550 on the US e-shop, and the page publishes no thickness, lug-to-lug or lug width, so three cells are dashes. 39 mm, 100 m, L844 automatic GMT (ETA A31.L11 base) with a silicon balance spring and 72-hour reserve, sapphire with multi-layer AR, bidirectional ceramic bezel, Swiss Super-LumiNova, on the bracelet. The Legend Diver 39 at $3,500 (300 m, silicon spring, 72 hours, internal rotating flange, leather) is the Longines diver at the same money. The Spirit 40 at $2,550 is COSC-certified per its page and $1,000 less; the Zulu Time's page states no certificate, and the difference it gives is the second zone and the ceramic bezel. The Ball above at $3,499 is the certified GMT with a thickness on the page.

A ceramic case on a ceramic bracelet under a certified movement, $3,690, and the entire line was out of stock on the check date. 41 mm, 46.2 mm lug-to-lug, 11.2 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 100 m, Soprod Newton P092 automatic, COSC, sapphire front and back with AR, zirconium-oxide case, fixed ceramic bezel and solid-link ceramic bracelet with a micro-adjustable clasp, Super-LumiNova BGW9, the brand's Case Suspension System, in the store's dollar pricing (CHF 2,990). The ceramic alternative is the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic at $4,600 in the notes (43 mm, 14.6 mm): the Formex is 2 mm smaller, 3.4 mm thinner and $910 less, and its page states a certificate and a water-resistance figure where the Rado page read gave neither.

The King Seiko on the US lineup now, and the shortest lug-to-lug on the page at 43.6 mm. 39.4 mm, 9.9 mm thick, 19 mm lugs, 50 m, 6L35 automatic, box-shaped sapphire, steel, $3,100. The 6R55 King Seiko SPB371 has gone from the US King Seiko page; the current range runs $3,100 to $3,850. The other Seiko under the line is the Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 at $2,900 (42.6 mm, 49.3 mm, 13.4 mm, 300 m, 8L35 with hand-winding, LumiBrite), in the notes. Against the Grand Seiko SBGW301 at $5,000: 1.8 mm thinner, $1,900 less, automatic against hand-wound, and Seiko states 50 m where Grand Seiko states "splash resistant". The $1,900 buys the Grand Seiko finishing, which this site does not measure.

The Bristol brand's cushion case in 40 mm, $3,500 excluding VAT on the en-us store ($4,200 including it; $3,700 excluding VAT on the bracelet), and the one entry that itemises where each part was made. 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 11.9 mm thick to the top of the domed crystal, 20 mm lugs, 150 m, La Joux-Perret G100 automatic with a quick-set date, sapphire with ARdur AR on both sides, 316L steel polished and spun, Grade A BGW9 Super-LumiNova. Fears' spec sheet lists the case and caseback as made in Hong Kong, the dial in Germany and the movement in Switzerland, with assembly in Britain in small batches. Against the Bremont Supermarine below: 2.5 mm shorter lug-to-lug, 0.1 mm thinner, 150 m shallower, $650 less.

Bremont's 300 m diver in the 40 mm case, $4,150 on the US site (£3,600 on the UK site), and the longest lug-to-lug on the page for a 40 mm case at 49 mm. 12 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, BE-92AV automatic (a modified Sellita SW300-1 base) with 50 hours, domed sapphire with AR, 904L steel, unidirectional black aluminium bezel, white Super-LumiNova, on the bracelet. COSC is not stated on the page. The Fears above is 46.5 mm at the same diameter and the Ball 47.8 mm. The Longines Legend Diver 39 at $3,500 is the other 300 m diver under $5,000 from a bigger name, with no dimensions published. The Bremont is the one that tells you the length; measure it against your wrist.

The acrylic exception, and a hand-wound Sellita chronograph at 9 mm for $3,495. 39 mm, 50 m, SW510 M Élaboré with 23 jewels at 4 Hz and 58 hours, a 4 mm domed anti-scratch acrylic, 316L steel with vintage-style polishing, on brown calfskin. An initial release of 35 numbered pieces was in stock on the check date; the Cruise, Safari, Black and White dials are the same price and sold out. Made in Switzerland per the brand. Lume, lug width and lug-to-lug are not published. The Archetype 1.0 at $4,250 (42 mm, 14 mm, 100 m, double-domed sapphire, 50 pieces, one per household) is the sapphire alternative from the same maker; the Sinn 903 at $4,310 is 5.5 mm thicker on an automatic column-wheel calibre. The acrylic is the trade.

The one quartz entry and the thinnest watch on the page at 6.6 mm, $4,400 on cartier.com/en-us. A 33.7 by 25.5 mm steel case, 30 m (3 bar), SolarBeat photovoltaic quartz, on a non-animal strap; the table's case column carries the 33.7 mm length. Cartier's page does not name the crystal. The US SolarBeat large is now reference WSTA0122; the WSTA0059 that older lists cite appears only on the UK and Swiss sites. The mechanical-quartz Tank Must Large is $3,900 at Mayors, an authorised retailer, because the cartier.com page for it errors: same case, same 6.6 mm, no solar cell. The Santos de Cartier Medium at $8,400 is the Cartier automatic, on the under-$10,000 list.

The cheapest certificate in the bracket by a dollar, and the reason the Spirit Zulu Time above has to justify its extra $1,000. 40 mm, 100 m, a silicon balance spring and COSC stated on the US page, sapphire with multi-layer AR on both faces, Super-LumiNova, on the bracelet at $2,550. Longines publishes no thickness, lug-to-lug or lug width for it and does not name the calibre on the page. The Ball Marvelight in the next section is $2,549, also certified, and prints all three dimensions. The Spirit is the one with the pilot's dial and the bigger name; the Ball is the one you can measure before buying.

The same reference read from Seiko's US Marinemaster listing rather than its product page, kept because the listing gives the context the product page does not: SLA077 and SLA079 at $2,900, the SJE099, SJE101, SJE117 and SJE119 at $2,800, and the 2026 HBF001 and HBF002 on the new 8L45 at $3,600 and $3,900. The figures agree with the row above on every cell the two share, 42.6 mm, 49.3 mm lug-to-lug, 13.4 mm, 300 m, 8L35; this read adds the 20 mm lug width. The $100 the SJE models save buys a different case, not a different rating. Treat the two rows as one watch.

The cheaper Legend Diver and the one whose page names its calibre: L888 automatic with a silicon balance spring and 72 hours, 42 mm, 300 m, internal rotating flange on a second crown, sapphire with multi-layer AR underneath, Swiss Super-LumiNova, on leather at $2,850. Longines publishes no thickness, lug-to-lug or lug width; the black-dial bracelet version redirects to the US homepage and is not recorded. The Seiko SLA079 above is $50 more at the same 300 m with every dimension printed. The 39 mm version below is $650 more for 3 mm less case. Buy the 42 for the calibre and the price; measure it yourself.

The same reference, 01 733 7766 4135-07 8 22 05PEB, recorded a second time from the same Oris US page, and kept because the two reads disagree on one thing worth knowing. This read carries the calibre by name, Oris 733-1 at 28,800 vph with 41 hours, and found the page marked not available; a search snippet showed $2,800 for the reference, and the page itself said $2,600. Everything else matches the row above: 41.5 mm, 22 mm lugs, 300 m, domed sapphire, ceramic insert. Treat the pair as one watch at $2,600, and confirm it is in stock before treating the price as current.

The Sixty-Five on the Sellita-based Caliber 733 rather than the five-day Calibre 400, on rubber at $2,600, and the same money as the Aquis Date above with 200 m less rating. 40 mm, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, sapphire domed on both sides with AR inside, unidirectional bezel with the minutes scale on the top ring, steel. No thickness, lug-to-lug or lume published. The Calibre 400 version among the picks is $1,500 more for the in-house movement and the same 100 m; Oris US listings for the 40 mm on other straps run $2,700 to $2,950 per a search snippet. This is the look without the calibre.

The cheapest way into a Tudor in-house calibre on a bracelet: MT5402, COSC, about 70 hours, at $4,025 from Exquisite Timepieces, $3,675 on the strap. 39 mm, 12 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, domed sapphire, satin-brushed steel with a smooth bezel; Tudor publishes no lug-to-lug. A 36 mm Ranger now exists at $3,550 to $3,900. The Black Bay 54 above is $700 more for 200 m, a rotating bezel and 2 mm less case. Against the Longines Spirit 40 at $2,550, also certified: $1,475 more for the manufacture movement and the Tudor name. The 100 m is the trade.

The smaller Spirit, and $300 more than the 40 mm on the same bracelet, which is the odd figure on Longines' US site and one to confirm before ordering; it may be a ceramic-bezel or 2025-priced variant. 37 mm, 100 m, silicon balance spring, COSC stated, sapphire with AR on both sides, Super-LumiNova, steel, $2,850. No thickness, lug-to-lug or lug width published. The King Seiko SJE109 above is $250 more at 39.4 mm with every dimension printed and 50 m; the Spirit keeps the certificate and the 100 m. Buy it for the 37 mm if the 40 wears large; buy the 40 if $300 matters.

The Legend Diver in 39 mm, $3,500 on leather. 300 m, an automatic at 25,200 vph with a silicon balance spring and 72 hours, sapphire with AR on both sides, the internal rotating flange, Super-LumiNova, steel. Longines publishes no thickness, lug-to-lug or lug width, and the page does not name the calibre. The 42 mm version above is $650 less with the same rating and a named L888. The Sinn U50 above is $60 less at 500 m and prints its thickness. The $650 over the 42 buys 3 mm less watch and nothing else the page states.

The Sinn pilot's watch, $2,690 on the strap and $3,360 on the H-link bracelet, both from WatchBuys search snippets because sinn.de blocked every fetch on both check dates; treat the figures as unverified. 40 mm, 200 m, Sellita SW300-1, sapphire, fully Tegimented hardened steel, magnetic protection to 80,000 A/m and drilled lugs per the sinn.de snippet. No thickness or lug-to-lug came through. The U50 above is $750 more for 500 m and a stated 11.2 mm. The Longines Spirit 40 at $2,550 is $140 less with a certificate. The 856 is the hardened case; that is what the money is for.

The Oris pilot's watch on the bracelet, $2,600, with a big date the Longines Spirit does not have and without the certificate the Spirit does. 41 mm, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, Oris Caliber 751 automatic with 38 hours, sapphire domed on both sides with AR inside, the fluted turbine-style bezel, steel; the US range runs $2,400 to $2,600 by strap. Thickness, lug-to-lug and lume are not stated. The Spirit 40 is $50 less, COSC, with a silicon balance spring and 72 hours against 38. The ProPilot X below is $2,200 more for the five-day Calibre 400 in titanium. The 38-hour reserve is the plain trade.

The other Calibre 400 under the line, and the titanium one: $4,800 on the integrated titanium bracelet. 39 mm, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, Oris's own five-day automatic, sapphire domed on both sides with AR inside, fixed bezel, multi-piece titanium case; the laser-dial version is $5,750 and over the line. Oris gives no thickness or lug-to-lug. The Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 above has the same movement at $4,100, $700 less, in steel with a rotating bezel. The Tudor Ranger 39 at $4,025 is the certified in-house alternative at $775 less, with a stated 12 mm. The $700 over the Sixty-Five buys the titanium and the integrated case.

A 300 m diver from a big name at $3,500 on the bracelet, priced at Shreve, Crump & Low because tagheuer.com/us blocks every fetch including a browser. 43 mm recorded, though the retailer page says 40 mm in its body and 43 mm in its title; The 1916 Company, also authorised, says 43. Calibre 5 automatic, sapphire, unidirectional steel bezel with a ceramic insert, steel case. No thickness, lug-to-lug, lug width or lume came through. The Seiko SLA079 above is $600 less at the same rating with every dimension printed; the Oris Aquis Date is $900 less. The case size is the thing to confirm before buying.

The same U50 as entry six, recorded from sinn.de search snippets rather than the WatchBuys product page, and kept because the two sources agree: 41 mm, 11.2 mm thick, 500 m, $3,440 on silicone and $3,640 on the H-link bracelet. This read adds the DNV certification to 50 bar and the captive Tegimented bezel, and drops the lug-to-lug and lug width the distributor page gave. The U50 Hydro runs $2,970 to $3,450 per the same snippets. Neither read reached sinn.de itself; both check dates returned 403. Treat the two rows as one watch, and the WatchBuys figures as the ones to quote.

The ceramic diver from a big name, $4,600 on the US e-shop, and the page read gave no water-resistance figure, crystal or lug width, so a dive watch sits here with a dash in the WR column. 43 mm, 14.6 mm thick, Rado R734 automatic with a Nivachron hairspring and 80 hours, high-tech ceramic monobloc case with steel and titanium PVD elements, rotating ceramic bezel with Super-LumiNova. The Formex Essence Ceramica above is $910 less, 2 mm smaller, 3.4 mm thinner, COSC and rated to 100 m on its page. The Rado is the bigger name and the thicker watch; the Formex is the one with numbers in every cell.

A certificate with every dimension printed: COSC, 904L steel, a mu-metal shield and all three measurements, for $2,549 with import duties included when the page is read from a US address. 40 mm, 46.6 mm lug-to-lug, 12.45 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, RR1103-C automatic, AR sapphire, 14 micro gas tubes on hands and dial; Ball prices by location, £2,110 from the UK. The Longines Spirit 40 is $1 more, also certified, and publishes none of the three dimensions. The Roadmaster GMT above is $950 more for the second zone, 300 m and 1.55 mm of thickness. The 12.45 mm is the only figure against it.

Longines' dress automatic on the bracelet, $2,550, with the same L888 and 72 hours as the Legend Diver 42 and a 30 m rating in place of 300. 40 mm, sapphire, fixed bezel, steel, silver barleycorn dial. No thickness, lug-to-lug or lug width published, which is the Longines pattern on every row of this site. The Ball Marvelight above is $1 less with a certificate, 100 m and all three dimensions. The NOMOS Metro 38 date below is $1,190 more for a 7.8 mm hand-wound case that prints its length. For the money this is a barleycorn dial and a 72-hour calibre; the case is the unknown.

The cheaper Grand Seiko and the one with a rating you can write down: 100 m, against the "splash resistant" the SBGW301 above offers for $2,300 more. 37 mm, 44.6 mm lug-to-lug, 10 mm thick, 19 mm lugs, 9F62 quartz rated to plus or minus 10 seconds a year, sapphire, steel, $2,700 on the US site. Grand Seiko's own November 2024 price sheet had it at $2,300; the live page shows $2,700. The Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat above is $1,700 more for the other serious quartz on the page. The 9F is the reason to buy; the rise is the reason to check the page first.

The anOrdain at its cheapest, $2,630 on the maker's US pricing for the 36 mm medium with the hand-wound Sellita SW210-1; the G101 automatic and the A1 cost more, up to £2,745 on the feed. 43 mm lug-to-lug, 11 mm thick, 18 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire with three-layer AR, brushed 316L steel, Super-LumiNova on thermally treated steel hands; the 39.5 mm large is a separate size. Racing Green and Flax are the same price. The Model 1 Porcelain below is $376 more for the glazed dial at 38 mm. The Longines Master Collection at $2,550 is the big-name alternative, with no dial like this and no dimensions.

A white glazed porcelain dial by anOrdain's in-house artist on the Model 1 case, $3,006 on the maker's US pricing with the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic, and a nine-month wait stated on the page on the check date. 38 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 11 mm thick, 18 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire with three-layer AR, polished 316L steel; the decorated A1 movement is £2,520 excluding VAT against £2,200. Lume is not stated. The Model 2 above is $376 less in more colours; the Fumé below is $669 more for the graded dial. This is the dial to wait for, and the wait is part of the price.

The fumé dial, $3,675 on the maker's US pricing, and the most expensive anOrdain on the page; the feed runs £2,690 to £3,645 across small, medium and large. 38 mm, 16 mm lugs, 50 m, Sellita SW210-1 hand-wound or La Joux-Perret G101 automatic, sapphire with three-layer AR, polished 316L steel. The feed carries no lug-to-lug or thickness for this variant, so both are dashes; Payne's Grey, Plum and Green are the same money. The Porcelain above is $669 less on the same case. The NOMOS Metro 38 date below is $65 more and 3.2 mm thinner than the Porcelain's 11 mm. The dial is the whole argument.

The NOMOS to buy under the line if the Club Sport's 200 m is not the point: a 7.8 mm hand-wound case with a date, $3,740 on the US store. 38.5 mm, 45.3 mm lug-to-lug, 19 mm lugs, 50 m recorded from NOMOS's 5 atm, DUW 4601 with 52 hours, domed sapphire front and back, steel. It is 0.6 mm thinner than the Club Sport neomatik above and $400 less; the Club Sport has 200 m and the automatic. The Tangente neomatik 41 Update below is $1,130 more at the same 7.8 mm with an automatic and a ring date. Hand-winding is the trade.

An in-house COSC day-date on an integrated bracelet for $3,675 at Brent Miller, a US retailer, and the cheapest Tudor manufacture calibre on the page. 40 mm, 11.4 mm thick, 100 m, MT5633 tuned to -2/+4 seconds a day with about 70 hours, sapphire, fixed steel bezel, five-link bracelet; the 9 mm in the lug column is the integrated attachment, so no strap goes on it. The Royal 38 that older lists name is gone; the 2026 collection is 28, 36 and 40 mm. The Ranger 39 above is $350 more for standard 20 mm lugs and no day. The integrated bracelet is the trade.

The Disco Volante in its Havana dial, $3,100 on the maker's US pricing (CHF 2,500 excluding tax), marked Retired on both check dates; the Disco Onyx Diamonds at CHF 3,500 is the only one in stock. There is no automatic in the line; it is the Peseux 7001 hand-wound throughout. 38 mm, 8.95 mm thick with the crystal and 8.10 mm without, 20 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire front and back with AR and an anti-fingerprint coat, 316L steel. The NOMOS Metro 38 date above is $640 more, 1.15 mm thinner and current. A retired watch is a secondary-market watch; the row records what the maker last asked.

The blue Disco Volante, the same Peseux 7001 and the same $3,100 (CHF 2,500) as the Havana above, and also marked Retired. What this record adds: BGW9 Super-LumiNova on the dial inserts and hands, a satin and mirror finish on the 316L case, a blue and white leather strap plus a steel mesh bracelet in the box, Swiss Made with bridges hand-finished in Geneva per the maker. 38 mm, 8.95 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire front and back. Between the two there is nothing to choose but colour and what remains on the secondary market; the current Disco Onyx Diamonds is CHF 1,000 more.

TAG Heuer's three-hander in 39 mm, $3,700 on the bracelet at Mayors, an authorised retailer, because tagheuer.com/us served a bot-challenge shell even to a browser. 100 m, Calibre 5 automatic on a Sellita or ETA base, fixed bezel, luminescent hands and indexes, steel. The retailer page does not name the crystal, thickness, lug-to-lug or lug width, so the row is thin. The Tudor Royal 40 above is $25 less with an in-house COSC day-date and a stated 11.4 mm. The Longines Spirit 40 is $1,150 less with a certificate. The Carrera is the name on the dial; the case specs are the gap.

The mechanical-quartz Tank Must Large, $3,900 at Mayors because cartier.com/en-us redirects the reference to a page that errors. 33.7 by 25.5 mm, 6.6 mm thick, 30 m, Cartier's high-autonomy quartz, steel, on leather; the case column carries the 33.7 mm length. Crystal, lug width and lume are not on the retailer page. The SolarBeat above is $500 more on cartier.com itself for the same case and thickness with a photovoltaic movement and a non-animal strap. The Grand Seiko SBGX261 above is $1,200 less for a quartz rated to 10 seconds a year and 100 m. The SolarBeat is the same shape with a price the maker will confirm.

The largest NOMOS under the line and the longest, 49.3 mm lug-to-lug on a 40.5 mm case, at $4,870 on the product page; a search snippet showed $4,480 and the page is the authority. 7.8 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 50 m, DUW 6101 neomatik automatic with the ring date, sapphire with AR, Super-LumiNova on the date ring, steel. The Club Sport neomatik above is $730 less, 3.5 mm smaller, 1.6 mm shorter and rated to 200 m, also a neomatik. The Metro 38 date above is $1,130 less at the same 7.8 mm, hand-wound. The Tangente is the design; the 49.3 mm is the measurement to take first.

An integrated-bracelet sports watch on Baume & Mercier's Baumatic calibre, $4,300 at Teddy Baldassarre, an authorised retailer, because baume-et-mercier.com timed out twice; the retailer's title calls the BM13-1975A a COSC chronometer and the page names nothing else. 42 mm, steel, and that is the whole spec sheet this site could read: no water resistance, thickness, lug-to-lug, crystal or lume. Grey-market listings ran $2,886 to $3,120 in a search snippet, at least $1,180 under the retailer figure. The Tudor Royal 40 above is $625 less on an integrated bracelet with an in-house COSC day-date and a stated 11.4 mm. This row is a price and a diameter.

The chiming watch, and $5 under the line on leather: $4,995 for the C1 Bel Canto Classic in Grade 5 titanium, $5,340 on the Bader bracelet and over. 41 mm, CW FS01 automatic, a Sellita SW200-1 base carrying Christopher Ward's hourly sonnerie au passage module. The listing page gave no thickness, lug-to-lug, water resistance or crystal. The original non-Classic Bel Canto launched at $3,595 per the brand; no current listing was found. The NOMOS Tangente 41 above is $125 less and prints every dimension; nothing else under $5,000 on this site strikes the hour. That is the entire case for it.

The cheapest automatic chronograph on the page, $2,645 on the mesh bracelet, and 14.45 mm thick, which only the Rado and the Sinn 903 exceed here. 40 mm, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, H-31 automatic chronograph with 60 hours, sapphire, Super-LumiNova, steel; the strap versions cost less and were not fetched. Hamilton publishes no lug-to-lug. The Massena LAB Uni-Racer above is $850 more, hand-wound and 5.45 mm thinner, under acrylic. The Sinn 903 below is $1,665 more for a column wheel, 200 m and a slide rule, at 14.5 mm. The Intra-Matic buys a Swiss automatic chronograph for the price of a three-hand Longines; the height is the whole cost.

The column-wheel chronograph under the line, $4,310 on the strap at WatchBuys, Sinn's North American distributor, and $4,730 on the fine-link bracelet. 41 mm, 48.5 mm lug-to-lug, 14.5 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 200 m, La Joux-Perret L110 automatic column-wheel chronograph, sapphire, a bidirectional slide-rule bezel under the crystal. Lume is not stated. The Hamilton Intra-Matic above is $1,665 less for an H-31 at 100 m with no lug-to-lug; the Massena LAB Uni-Racer is $815 less at 9 mm, hand-wound, under acrylic. The 903 is the one with a rating and a full row of dimensions; the 14.5 mm and the 48.5 mm are what you pay in wrist.

The other Massena LAB chronograph, $3,495 on the Shopify feed on both check dates, sold out as a private release. A reissue of the 1954 Rodania Geometer: 39 mm polished steel case with brushed lugs, three registers, hand-wound per the record, under domed acrylic. The feed gives no movement name, thickness, lug-to-lug, water resistance or lume, so the row is a case and a layout. The Uni-Racer above is the same $3,495 with a named Sellita SW510 M, a stated 9 mm and 50 m, and was in stock. Same maker, same money, same acrylic; the Uni-Racer is the one you can read about and buy.

The deepest rating on the page, 600 m, ISO 6425, COSC, and sold out: £2,850 including VAT, £2,375 excluding it, and Vertex shows no US price. 40 mm, 48.9 mm lug-to-lug, 14 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Sellita SW300-1 chronometer with 56 hours, double-domed box sapphire with AR08 and AR06 coatings, matte ceramic bezel with the scale in Super-LumiNova X1, 316L marine-grade steel, bracelet, ZA strap and rubber strap in the box. The M60C compressor is £75 more excluding VAT and also sold out. The Sinn U50 above gives up 100 m and the certificate and is 2.8 mm thinner. The 14 mm and the sold-out sign are the trade.

The Vertex field watch, £2,500 including VAT and £2,083.33 excluding it, sold out on the check date along with its DLC twin the M100AC at the same money. 40 mm, 48.5 mm lug-to-lug, 12.2 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, Sellita SW260-1 with 31 jewels and a custom Cal59 rotor weight, double-domed box sapphire with AR08 and AR06, a dial moulded in C3 X1 Super-LumiNova, brushed 316L with a screw-in crown; leather, two NATOs and a Peli case in the box. The M60 above is £291.67 more excluding VAT for 600 m and a certificate. The Tudor Ranger 39 is the in-house alternative; Vertex's argument is the dial.

A Seiko NH34A GMT in a British-made case at £2,190, in stock, 150 per colour, and Schofield shows no US price. 40 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 13.5 mm thick including the lugs, 22 mm lugs, 200 m, 24 jewels at 3 Hz with 44 hours, box sapphire with multiple AR layers, Super-LumiNova C3, steel with an anti-fingerprint coat; the Dark One is the same watch in PVD gunmetal. Two straps in the box; made in Riverside per the maker. The movement is the trade: the Ball Roadmaster GMT above is a COSC GMT to 300 m, and the Schofield's £2,190 buys the case, the crystal and the run of 150.

The thinnest Fears and the cheapest, £2,458.33 excluding VAT on the bracelet and £2,625 on leather. 39.5 mm, 46.95 mm lug-to-lug, 9.98 mm thick with the closed caseback and 10.37 mm with the open one, 20 mm lugs, 150 m, La Joux-Perret G100 with 68 hours, sapphire with ARdur on both sides, X1-grade Super-LumiNova in blue, 316L with a screw-down crown and back; a three-link bracelet with micro-adjust or black buffalo leather. Against the Brunswick 40 below at £2,791.67 on strap: £333.34 less, 1.92 mm thinner, the same 150 m and the same calibre. The bracelet is cheaper than the leather, which is unusual and worth knowing.

The hand-wound Brunswick, and at 42 mm the shortest lug-to-lug of any round case on the page: £3,450 including VAT, £2,875 excluding it on cordovan, £3,041.67 excluding VAT on the bracelet. 38 mm, 11.84 mm thick with the closed back and 11.69 mm open, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, La Joux-Perret D100 in TOP grade with 50 hours, sapphire with ARdur on both faces, 316L polished and spun, Heritage Brown cordovan lined in Alcantara. The Brunswick 40 above is £83.33 less on strap for the automatic, 50 m more and 4.5 mm more lug-to-lug. The Grand Seiko SBGW301 among the picks is 2.3 mm longer.

The salmon-dial Brunswick 40, £3,125 excluding VAT on the bracelet and £2,958.33 on the strap from the Shopify feed, discontinued and in what Fears calls its Archive with very limited pieces remaining. 40 mm, 20 mm lugs, 150 m, La Joux-Perret G100 with 68 hours, brushed and polished 316L cushion case; the feed carries no lug-to-lug, thickness, crystal or lume for it, so read the Filton row above for the case. The Silver Noir variant is sterling silver on the hand-wound G121M at £3,625. Against the Filton on the bracelet, £166.67 more for the dial. The Archive listing is the maker's own word for a closing window.

A jumping hour on a Christopher Ward module, and now in the Fears Archive: £3,541.67 excluding VAT on strap, £3,708.33 on the bracelet. 40.5 mm, 47 mm lug-to-lug, 12.8 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, a Sellita SW200 carrying Christopher Ward's JJ01 jump-hour module with 38 hours, sapphire with ARdur on both sides, 316L polished and spun, a silver barleycorn dial under blue lacquer. It is £750 more than the Filton on strap and 0.9 mm thicker, for the complication. The Formex Stratos UTC on the Formex page is the other jumping hour on this site. The 38-hour reserve and the archive status are the two things to weigh.

The rectangular Fears, £4,350 including VAT and £3,625 excluding it, and the most expensive Fears on the page. A 22.6 by 33.5 mm Swiss-made 316L case with a 40 mm lug-to-lug, 8.4 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 30 m, Sellita SW1000-1b automatic with 46 hours, sapphire with ARdur on both sides, a hobnail dial made in Germany, Barenia leather and an FKM rubber strap; the case column carries the 22.6 mm width. The Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat above is the other rectangle here, 1.8 mm thinner and quartz. The Brunswick 38 is £750 less excluding VAT for a round hand-wound Fears. The shape is what the money buys.

A sold-out first series from 2021, placed on its launch price of CHF 3,350 reported by Watch Affinity, because Laventure's own site shows no price for it now. 40.5 mm, 200 m, ETA 2893-2 automatic GMT with 42 hours, a Plexiglas Superdome crystal, fixed bezel with lumed numerals, Swiss Super-LumiNova, steel, on an integrated bracelet; 50 pieces per reference. No thickness or lug-to-lug in the record. The Schofield above is the GMT here you can order; the Ball Roadmaster among the picks is the certified one. This row is a record of what a 200 m integrated GMT cost at launch, not a place to buy one.