SMALL SECONDS.
Timex Waterbury Classic 40 (TW2W50600)
Timex Waterbury Classic 40 (TW2W50600) · Photo: Timex
HomeCollections › Dress

Dress watches, by price

Nearly a hundred dress watches, sorted by price, with the two numbers that matter under a cuff: thickness and lug-to-lug. The thinnest is 6.9 mm and costs $7,900; the second thinnest is 7.95 mm and costs $1,295.

Checked 20 September 2026 · list prices on the maker's site that day unless marked street

Dress watches are judged on thickness first, and the data is unusually complete on it because makers like to print a thin number. Under 10 mm the list includes the Formex Aria (6.9 mm), the Farer Solander (7.95 mm), the Serica Parade (8.2 mm) and the Lorier Astra and Falcon (8.8 mm case, more with the domed crystal). Water resistance is the trade: most of these are 30 m to 100 m, and the page says which.

Every dress watch in the data, by price, from the Orient Bambino to the Datejust.

The list at a glance

WatchMovementCaseLug to lugThickWRPrice
Timex Waterbury Classic 40 (TW2W50600)quartz40 mm11 mm50 m$149
Casio Edifice EFB-108D-1AVquartz45 mm47.5 mm8.7 mm100 m$150
Seiko Essentials quartz SUR307quartz40.2 mm8.4 mm100 m$240
Timex Marlin 1965 Reissue Hand-Wound 34mmhand-wound34 mm10 mm30 m$259
Timex Marlin Automatic 40 (TW2V44600, green dial)automatic40 mm13 mm50 m$299
San Martin 37mm Dress Watchautomatic37 mm45 mm9.8 mm100 m$341
Bulova Sutton quartzquartz40 mm30 m$350
Brew Metric Lite (Tiger Eye)automatic30 mm10.55 mm50 m$375
Orient Bambino Version 7, 38.4 mm (RA-AC0M02B)automatic38.4 mm44 mm12.5 mm30 m$430
Baltic HMS 002automatic38 mm47 mm13 mm50 m$443
Baltic HMS 003automatic36.5 mm46 mm13 mm50 m$443
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time 'Blue Moon' SRPB43automatic40.5 mm11.8 mm50 m$450
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time 'Starlight' SRPB41automatic40.5 mm11.8 mm50 m$475
Bulova Sutton Automatic (skeleton)automatic40 mm30 m$625
Baltic MR Classic (formerly MR01)automatic36 mm44 mm9.9 mm30 m$627
Nodus Unityautomatic36.5 mm43.5 mm11.3 mm150 m$675
Charlie Paris Initial Cœur Ouvert (Bleu)automatic40 mm46 mm10.2 mm30 m$695
Lorier Astra (2026 core collection)automatic36 mm44 mm8.8 mm100 m$699
Lorier Roosevelt (Grand Central Watch limited edition)automatic36 mm$799
Ikepod Duopod (Black Hour Glass)quartz42 mm$875
Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium 40mmautomatic40 mm11.5 mm100 m$950
Tissot Visodate Powermatic 80 39mmautomatic39 mm10.45 mm50 m$950
Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Open Heart 40mmautomatic40 mm11.5 mm100 m$1,025
Farer Marsden 35mm Cushion Casehand-wound35 mm38 mm10 mm50 m$1,165
Baltic Prismichand-wound36 mm44 mm9.2 mm30 m$1,208
Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto 40mmautomatic40 mm11.05 mm50 m$1,245
Farer Solander Lissomhand-wound38 mm42.8 mm7.95 mm50 m$1,295
Bravur BW003 (black dial)automatic39 mm50 m$1,350
Frédérique Constant Classics Index Automatic 40mmautomatic40 mm$1,495
Ophion OPH 960hand-wound42.9 mm10.35 mm€1,305
Furlan Marri Cornes de Vache 'Blue Sector'automatic37.5 mm46 mm10.5 mm50 m$1,550
Furlan Marri Cornes de Vache 'Salmon Sector' (2154-A)automatic37.5 mm46 mm10.5 mm50 m$1,550
Furlan Marri Cornes de Vache 'White Sector' (2161-A)automatic37.5 mm46 mm10.5 mm50 m$1,550
Junghans max bill Automatic 38mm (sapphire)automatic38 mm10 mm50 m€1,485
Baltic Prismic Stone Pietersitehand-wound36 mm44 mm9.2 mm30 m$1,736
Charlie Paris Alliance Saphir (Bleu)automatic39.5 mm46.5 mm9 mm100 m$1,745
Serica Ref. 1174-1 Paradeautomatic35 mm41 mm8.2 mm100 m$1,760
Junghans Meister Handaufzug 37.7mmhand-wound37.7 mm7.3 mm50 m€1,590
Kurono Tokyo 2026 Anniversary Malachiteautomatic37 mm45 mm11.5 mm50 m$1,850
Kurono Tokyo 2026 Special Projects 37mm Inseki (meteorite)automatic37 mm11.5 mm30 m$1,850
Monta Noble (38.5mm)automatic38.5 mm47 mm9.7 mm150 m$1,895
Monta Noble 40automatic40 mm47.8 mm10.5 mm200 m$1,895
Farer Stratton Moonphasehand-wound38.5 mm43.8 mm11.5 mm50 m$2,075
Zelos Comet 39 'Meteorite'hand-wound39 mm45 mm9.4 mm50 m$2,099
Nomos Ludwig 35hand-wound35 mm45 mm6.3 mm50 m$2,290
Nomos Tangente 35 (hand-wound)hand-wound35 mm45 mm6.2 mm50 m$2,330
Kurono Tokyo Calendrier SBR (2026)automatic38 mm11.5 mm50 m$2,380
Charlie Paris Alliance Phase de Lune (Blanc)automatic39.5 mm46.5 mm9 mm30 m$2,445
anOrdain Model 1 (Parisian Blue)automatic38 mm42 mm10.1 mm50 m$2,446
Zelos Comet 39 'Tantalum' Limited Editionhand-wound39 mm45 mm9.4 mm50 m$2,499
Ball Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40 mmautomatic40 mm46.6 mm12.45 mm100 m$2,549
Longines Master Collection 40 mm (silver barleycorn, bracelet)automatic40 mm30 m$2,550
Grand Seiko SBGX261 quartz 37mmquartz37 mm44.6 mm10 mm100 m$2,700
anOrdain Model 1 Porcelainautomatic38 mm46 mm11 mm50 m$3,006
Furlan Marri Disco Volante 'Disco Celeste' (retired)hand-wound38 mm8.95 mm50 m$3,100
Furlan Marri Disco Volante (Disco Havana) hand-woundhand-wound38 mm8.95 mm50 m$3,100
Seiko King Seiko KS1969 SJE109automatic39.4 mm43.6 mm9.9 mm50 m$3,100
Fears Brunswick 40 Filton 'Raven Black' (strap)automatic40 mm46.5 mm11.9 mm150 m$3,500
anOrdain Model 1 Fumé (Blue)automatic38 mm50 m$3,675
TAG Heuer Carrera Date 39 mm Calibre 5 (black dial, bracelet)automatic39 mm100 m$3,700
Nomos Metro 38 datehand-wound38.5 mm45.3 mm7.8 mm50 m$3,740
Fears Brunswick 38 'Charcoal Rose'hand-wound38 mm42 mm11.84 mm100 m£2,875
Cartier Tank Must Large, quartz (steel, leather)quartz33.7 mm6.6 mm30 m$3,900
Zelos Mirage 2 Eight-Day Skeleton (2021)hand-wound42 mm48 mm13 mm50 m$3,900
Ikepod Horopod HO01 Jodhpurautomatic44 mm44 mm$3,990
Sartory-Billard SB04-E Winter 2026 (edition)automatic39.5 mm100 m€3,500
Ophion OPH 786 Vélos (Guilloché)hand-wound38.5 mm10.35 mm€3,620
Fears Brunswick 40 Copper Salmon (steel)automatic40 mm150 m£3,125
Cartier Tank Must Large, SolarBeat (steel, non-animal strap)quartz33.7 mm6.6 mm30 m$4,400
Ophion OPH 411 Vesperautomatic39 mm11.45 mm€3,975
Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'China Blue'automatic40.5 mm47 mm12.8 mm100 m£3,542
Fears Arnos Pewter Blueautomatic22.6 mm40 mm8.4 mm30 m£3,625
Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Updateautomatic40.5 mm49.3 mm7.8 mm50 m$4,870
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic 41mmautomatic41 mm$4,995
Grand Seiko Elegance hand-wound SBGW301 (successor to SBGW231)hand-wound37.3 mm44.3 mm11.7 mm$5,000
anOrdain Model 3 Method (Aqua)automatic39 mm46 mm10.45 mm50 m$5,048
Sartory-Billard SB04-E (bespoke)automatic39.5 mm46 mm10.3 mm100 m€5,000
Atelier Wen Ancestra 'Jiāo' Launch Editionautomatic38 mm46 mm11.3 mm100 m$5,850
Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive 'Snowflake' SBGA211spring-drive41 mm49 mm12.5 mm100 m$6,900
Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH347automatic37 mm44.6 mm13.3 mm100 m$7,300
Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer 40automatic40 mm45.45 mm6.9 mm30 m$7,900
Rolex Datejust 36 (silver dial, smooth bezel, Jubilee)automatic36 mm100 m$8,350
Sartory-Billard SB05 (bespoke ultra-thin)hand-wound38.5 mm45.5 mm8.5 mm50 m€15,000
Lundis Bleus Ref. 1125 (La Fée Verte / La Bleue)hand-wound40 mm11.3 mm30 mCHF 15,800
Fears Garrickhand-wound42 mm49 mm10 mm100 m£17,500
Fears Brunswick Pthand-wound38 mm30 m£21,000
Sartory-Billard SB06 (flying tourbillon)hand-wound41 mm47 mm9.5 mm50 m€110,000
Habring² Erwin (jumping seconds)hand-wound38.5 mm9 mm30 m
Kurono Tokyo Bunkyo Tokyo (classic series)automatic37 mm30 m
Ming 37.06 Lightning (MING x J.N. Shapiro)hand-wound38 mm44.5 mm10.9 mm100 m
Sartory-Billard SB10 Jumping Hour (bespoke)automatic39.5 mm44 mm11.5 mm80 m

Under $500

Timex Waterbury Classic 40 (TW2W50600)
Photo: Timex

Ø40 mm · quartz · 50 m · $149

Timex Waterbury Classic 40 (TW2W50600)

MovementTimex quartz analog
Case40 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness11 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystalmineral
Bezelfixed
Case materialsteel
Price$149

The dress watch to buy under $200, and the only Timex on the page in a steel case. 40 mm, 11 mm thick, 50 m, mineral crystal, 20 mm lug width, leather strap, cream dial with Roman numerals and a day-date, $149. Timex publishes no lug-to-lug. The Scout and the Weekender are brass, and apart from the Islander Turtle it is the only day-date here. The Weekender 38 at $77 is the cheaper Timex analogue, 30 m on a slip-through fabric strap. A mechanical Timex in the same family costs $259: the hand-wound Marlin, on the under-$300 list. The Waterbury's trade is mineral glass and 50 m; what $149 buys over the Scout is the steel case and the day-date.

See it at Timex

Spec sheet: timex.com, checked 19 September 2026. Timex brand page.

Casio Edifice EFB-108D-1AV
Photo: Casio

Ø45 mm · quartz · 100 m · $150

Casio Edifice EFB-108D-1AV

8.7 mm thick
45 × 47.5 mm · ref 40 × 47
Movementquartz, 3-hand with date, SR920SW ~3y
Case45 mm
Lug to lug47.5 mm
Thickness8.7 mm
Lug width
Water resistance100 m
Crystalsapphire
Bezelfixed
Case materialsteel
Price$150

The thinnest watch on the page at 8.7 mm, and the one Casio under $200 in this data on sapphire. Casio's copy calls it a chronograph; it is a three-hand date watch on a bracelet. Quartz, with a battery Casio rates at 3 years, 45 mm across, 47.5 mm lug-to-lug, 100 m, $150. The alternative in the same family is the Edifice EFV650D chronograph at $120, on mineral glass and 2.3 mm thicker. It was showing notify-me on casio.com on the check date and the page gives no lug width. At 45 mm across it shares the widest case on the page with the Islander Turtle, and that is the trade for the thinness.

See it at Casio

Spec sheet: casio.com, checked 19 September 2026. Casio brand page.

Seiko Essentials quartz SUR307
Photo: Seiko

Ø40.2 mm · quartz · 100 m · $240

Seiko Essentials quartz SUR307

MovementSeiko 6N52 quartz, date
Case40.2 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness8.4 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystalsapphire
Bezelfixed
LumeLumiBrite hands (per retailer listing)
Case materialsteel
Price$240

The thinnest watch on the page at 8.4 mm, and the one quartz here with both sapphire and 100 m. Seiko 6N52 quartz with date, 40.2 mm, 20 mm lugs, LumiBrite on the hands per the retailer listing; no lug-to-lug published. The price needs its provenance: Seiko's US site does not list the SUR307, and the $240 is the USD figure on Seiko's Middle East site, a maker's price from the wrong region. The DS2 at $239 is the alternative for $1 less, 150 m and a bezel at 10.4 mm; the SUR307's trade is where its price comes from, and 2 mm of thickness is what it wins.

See it at Seiko

Spec sheet: seikowatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Seiko brand page.

Timex Marlin 1965 Reissue Hand-Wound 34mm
Photo: Timex

Ø34 mm · hand wound · 30 m · $259

Timex Marlin 1965 Reissue Hand-Wound 34mm

Movementmechanical hand-wound (Chinese, ~40h reserve per Timex)
Case34 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness10 mm
Lug width18 mm
Water resistance30 m
Crystalacrylic
Bezelfixed
Case materialsteel, polished
Price$259

The dress watch to buy under $300, and the only hand-wound watch in this data at the price: 34 mm case, 10 mm thick, 30 m, acrylic crystal, 18 mm lugs, polished steel, silver dial on a croc-embossed leather strap, $259. Timex describes the movement as a mechanical hand-wound with about 40 hours of reserve and does not name the calibre; no lug-to-lug is published. The 30 m rating and the acrylic keep it in the dress category. The alternative in the same family is the Marlin Automatic 40 at $299: 40 mm, 13 mm thick, 50 m, and $40 more. This is a 1965 reissue at the original's 34 mm, the smallest case on the page.

See it at Timex

Spec sheet: timex.com, checked 19 September 2026. Timex brand page.

Timex Marlin Automatic 40 (TW2V44600, green dial)
Photo: Timex

Ø40 mm · automatic · 50 m · $299

Timex Marlin Automatic 40 (TW2V44600, green dial)

MovementJapanese automatic, 21 jewels (Miyota-type; caliber not named)
Case40 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness13 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystalacrylic (domed)
Bezelfixed
Lumeyes (hands)
Case materialsteel
Price$299

The Marlin for a 40 mm wrist, and the sixth automatic in the bracket at $299 on timex.com. An unnamed 21-jewel Japanese automatic with about 40 hours of reserve and an exhibition caseback, 40 mm, 13 mm thick, 50 m, domed acrylic, 20 mm lugs, green dial on leather; Timex publishes no lug-to-lug. Against the hand-wound Marlin at $259 it is 6 mm larger, 3 mm thicker and 20 m deeper for $40 more. The San Martin 6200 at $275 is the alternative for less: a named NH35, sapphire and 200 m. The Marlin's trade is acrylic and 50 m; its argument is the dial and the caseback.

See it at Timex

Spec sheet: timex.com, checked 19 September 2026. Timex brand page.

San Martin 37mm Dress Watch
Photo: San Martin

Ø37 mm · automatic · 100 m · $341

San Martin 37mm Dress Watch

9.8 mm thick
37 × 45 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementST1812 automatic
Case37 mm
Lug to lug45 mm
Thickness9.8 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystalsapphire, AR
Bezelfixed
Case material316L steel
Price$341

Not a diver, whatever the reference suggests: the one SN0110 the brand lists is a 37 mm dress watch at $341, and the thinnest San Martin here by 0.3 mm over the SN0144. 45 mm lug-to-lug, 9.8 mm thick, 100 m, sapphire, Sea-Gull ST1812, a diamond-pattern enamel dial in Light Green or Salmon, on a steel bracelet with a quick-release leather strap in the box. No lume is stated. A searcher who expected a Submariner shape should look at the BB Diver (SN0128) and the SN0017 and SN0009 in the Classic collection, not fetched for this table. For the money the SN0149 at $399 gives an integrated bracelet and a Miyota; this gives enamel and 9.8 mm.

See it at San Martin

Spec sheet: sanmartin-watch.com, checked 19 September 2026. San Martin brand page.

Bulova Sutton quartz
Photo: Bulova

Ø40 mm · quartz · 30 m · $350

Bulova Sutton quartz

Movementquartz
Case40 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
Crystalmineral
Bezelfixed
Case materialsteel
Price$350 list, about $280 street

A dress quartz at $350 list and $280 on Bulova's own sale on the check date, this far down because of the sheet: 40 mm, 20 mm lugs, mineral crystal, and no lug-to-lug or thickness published. Bulova's page says splash resistant; the 30 m in the table is the brand's usual rating, not a figure on the page. The Tissot PRX quartz at $450 is the alternative for $100 more on list, with sapphire, 100 m and a published thickness; the Timex Waterbury at $149 is the dress quartz for less. The Sutton's trade is that almost nothing about it is stated; the return is the sale price.

See it at Bulova

Spec sheet: bulova.com, checked 19 September 2026. Bulova brand page.

Brew Metric Lite (Tiger Eye)
Photo: Brew

Ø30 mm · automatic · 50 m · $375

Brew Metric Lite (Tiger Eye)

MovementMiyota 6T27 automatic
Case30 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness10.55 mm
Lug width18 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel
Price$375

The only automatic Brew makes and the smallest automatic under $1,000 on this site: $375, 30 x 34 mm, 10.55 mm thick, 50 m, sapphire, Miyota 6T27, on an 18 mm steel bracelet with quick-release and a folding clasp. The Tiger Eye has a genuine tiger eye stone dial; Tahitian Pearl, Mother of Pearl, Gold/Black and Silver/Black are the same price. The 6T27 is Miyota's small automatic, which is what allows 30 mm. Timex's Marlin 34 mm hand-wound at $259 is the other small mechanical under $400, 4 mm larger and 30 m. Buy the Lite for the size and the stone; a 30 mm watch is a choice, not a compromise.

See it at Brew

Spec sheet: brew-watches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Brew brand page.

Orient Bambino Version 7, 38.4 mm (RA-AC0M02B)
Photo: Orient

Ø38.4 mm · automatic · 30 m · $430

Orient Bambino Version 7, 38.4 mm (RA-AC0M02B)

12.5 mm thick
38.4 × 44 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementOrient F6724 automatic
Case38.4 mm
Lug to lug44 mm
Thickness12.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
Crystalmineral (domed)
Bezelfixed
Case materialsteel
Price$430 list, about $295 street

The dress automatic to buy at Orient's $295 selling price if the wrist is small: 44 mm lug-to-lug on a 38.4 mm case, the shortest on the page. Orient F6724 automatic, 12.5 mm thick, 30 m, domed mineral crystal, 20 mm lugs, black dial on a strap, $430 compare-at on Orient USA and in stock on the check date; Long Island Watch showed $295, sold out. The Seiko SRPB43 below is the alternative at $450 list, 50 m and box Hardlex, 2.1 mm larger. The Bambino's trade is 30 m and mineral glass; it is not the $350 Bambino 38 line, a different watch.

See it at Orient

Spec sheet: shop.orientwatchusa.com, checked 19 September 2026. Orient brand page.

Baltic HMS 002
Photo: Baltic

Ø38 mm · automatic · 50 m · $443

Baltic HMS 002

13 mm thick
38 × 47 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementMiyota 8315 automatic
Case38 mm
Lug to lug47 mm
Thickness13 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalHigh-domed hesalite
BezelFixed polished
Case material316L stainless steel
Price$443 (maker's on-page estimate, billed in euros)

The Baltic to buy at €385 if 38 mm is your size and hesalite does not trouble you. Miyota 8315 automatic, 47 mm lug to lug, 13 mm thick with the dome included, 50 m, four dials (Silver, Blue Gilt, Black and Gold PVD Black) at one price, on Italian calf leather with bracelet options. The alternative for the same €385 is the HMS 003 below, the same watch 1.5 mm narrower and 1 mm shorter, and the choice between them is wrist width and nothing else. What €385 does not buy is sapphire: the crystal is high-domed hesalite, which scratches and polishes out, and the price reflects it.

See it at Baltic

Spec sheet: baltic-watches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Baltic brand page.

Baltic HMS 003
Photo: Baltic

Ø36.5 mm · automatic · 50 m · $443

Baltic HMS 003

13 mm thick
36.5 × 46 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementMiyota 8315 automatic
Case36.5 mm
Lug to lug46 mm
Thickness13 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalHigh-domed hesalite
BezelFixed polished steel
Case material316L stainless steel
Price$443 (maker's on-page estimate, billed in euros)

The HMS to buy on a wrist under 6.5 inches, at the same €385 as its larger sibling. 36.5 mm across, 46 mm lug to lug, 10 mm of case under a 3 mm hesalite dome for 13 mm in total, Miyota 8315, 50 m, in Salmon, Silver Blue or Blue Gilt. Compare the 10 mm figure with sapphire-crystal rivals, not the 13 mm, since 3 mm of the height is crystal. For the same money the HMS 002 gives 1.5 mm more dial. The trade is the one the whole HMS line carries, hesalite where the rest of the range has sapphire, and it is the reason a Baltic automatic costs €385.

See it at Baltic

Spec sheet: baltic-watches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Baltic brand page.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time 'Blue Moon' SRPB43
Photo: Seiko

Ø40.5 mm · automatic · 50 m · $450

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time 'Blue Moon' SRPB43

MovementSeiko 4R35 automatic, hand-winding, hacking
Case40.5 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness11.8 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystalbox-shaped Hardlex
Bezelfixed
Case materialsteel
Price$450

The Cocktail Time on a strap, and $25 under the SRPB41 bracelet version on the main list for the identical watch. Seiko 4R35 automatic with hand-winding and hacking, 40.5 mm, 11.8 mm thick, 50 m, box-shaped Hardlex, 20 mm lugs, blue dial, $450 on seikowatches.com under the J1 suffix. Seiko publishes no lug-to-lug. Buy this one over the SRPB41 if the watch will live on leather anyway; the bracelet is all the $25 buys. The San Martin SN0144 at $428 is the alternative for less, 1.7 mm thinner, with sapphire and 100 m. The trade is Hardlex and 50 m, and the argument, as with the SRPB41, is the dial.

See it at Seiko

Spec sheet: seikowatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Seiko brand page.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time 'Starlight' SRPB41
Photo: Seiko

Ø40.5 mm · automatic · 50 m · $475

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time 'Starlight' SRPB41

MovementSeiko 4R35 automatic, hand-winding, hacking
Case40.5 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness11.8 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystalbox-shaped Hardlex
Bezelfixed
Case materialsteel
Price$475

The dress watch on the list, and the one with a Seiko name at $475: 4R35 automatic with hand-winding and hacking, 40.5 mm, 11.8 mm thick, 50 m, box-shaped Hardlex, 20 mm lugs, blue dial on a bracelet, on seikousa.com under the J1 suffix (the plain SRPB41 URL returns a 404 on the US site). Seiko publishes no lug-to-lug. The SRPB43 is the same watch on a leather strap at $450. Hardlex is the stated exception to the sapphire rule. The San Martin SN0144 at $428 is the alternative: 1.7 mm thinner, twice the water resistance, sapphire, and a bracelet with a fly-adjust clasp. The Cocktail Time's trade is all of that, and its argument is the dial.

See it at Seiko

Spec sheet: seikowatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Seiko brand page.

$500 to $1,000

Bulova Sutton Automatic (skeleton)
Photo: Bulova

Ø40 mm · automatic · 30 m · $625

Bulova Sutton Automatic (skeleton)

Movement21-jewel skeletonised automatic (Miyota 82S0-series), 42h reserve
Case40 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
Crystalsapphire, domed, AR
Bezelfixed
Case materialsteel
Price$625 list, about $500 street

The skeleton automatic at $625 list and $500 on Bulova's own sale, and half the sheet is blank: 40 mm, 20 mm lugs, 30 m, domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating, no lug-to-lug or thickness published. Bulova's page gives 21 jewels and a 42-hour reserve and does not name the calibre; the Miyota 82S0 family is an inference from the jewel count. The Charlie Paris Initial Cœur Ouvert at $695 is the open-heart alternative for $70 more with every dimension stated and a named Miyota 82S7. The Sutton's trade is the unnamed movement and the two dashes; the return is the sale price, $195 under the Charlie Paris.

See it at Bulova

Spec sheet: bulova.com, checked 19 September 2026. Bulova brand page.

Baltic MR Classic (formerly MR01)
Photo: Baltic

Ø36 mm · automatic · 30 m · $627

Baltic MR Classic (formerly MR01)

9.9 mm thick
36 × 44 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementHangzhou CAL5000a micro-rotor automatic
Case36 mm
Lug to lug44 mm
Thickness9.9 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
CrystalHigh-domed hesalite
BezelFixed polished steel
Case material316L stainless steel
Price$627 (maker's on-page estimate, billed in euros)

The thin automatic at €545, and the cheapest way into a micro-rotor in the range: the Hangzhou CAL5000a is how a self-winding watch under a domed crystal comes in at 9.9 mm. 36 mm across, 44 mm lug to lug, 30 m, high-domed hesalite; the MR Roulette variants list at the same price, on Italian calf leather with a straight beads-of-rice bracelet option. The alternative is the Prismic, the same 36 mm by 44 mm case, 0.7 mm thinner, under sapphire and on a Swiss hand-wound, at €445 more. What €545 gives up is sapphire and any water resistance worth the name at 30 m, and the product page still calls the watch the MR01.

See it at Baltic

Spec sheet: baltic-watches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Baltic brand page.

Nodus Unity
Photo: Nodus

Ø36.5 mm · automatic · 150 m · $675

Nodus Unity

11.3 mm thick
36.5 × 43.5 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementMiyota 9015 Premium automatic
Case36.5 mm
Lug to lug43.5 mm
Thickness11.3 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance150 m
Crystalbox sapphire, blue AR underside
Bezelfixed, polished ceramic insert
LumeSwiss Super-LumiNova BGW9 Grade A
Case material316L steel
Price$675

The dress Nodus and the one for the smallest wrist, sold out at check in all 3 dials: Vitreous Pink and Yellow at $675, Pearl White at $725. It is 36.5 mm, 43.5 mm lug-to-lug and 11.3 mm thick, rated 150 m, on a Miyota 9015 Premium, the only one in the range and thinner and higher-beat than the TMI calibres in the Sector lines, under a fixed bezel with a polished ceramic insert, over a vitreous enamel dial. It is 1.5 mm smaller than the Sector II and 3.5 mm shorter. For the same money the Sector Deep Pioneer gives 500 m and a GMT hand and was orderable; nothing else in the house gives enamel.

See it at Nodus

Spec sheet: noduswatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Nodus brand page.

Charlie Paris Initial Cœur Ouvert (Bleu)
Photo: Charlie Paris

Ø40 mm · automatic · 30 m · $695

Charlie Paris Initial Cœur Ouvert (Bleu)

10.2 mm thick
40 × 46 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementCitizen Miyota 82S7 automatic open-heart, 21 jewels, 40h
Case40 mm
Lug to lug46 mm
Thickness10.2 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
CrystalSapphire, AR; transparent back
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel
Price$695 (US price on the maker's site)

The open-heart dress automatic at $695 as shown to US buyers (€445 on leather, €485 on the bracelet), 10.2 mm thick. Citizen Miyota 82S7 with a 40-hour reserve, 40 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 30 m, sapphire with anti-reflective coating, transparent caseback, 20 mm tool-free straps in leather, steel or rubber. The Jour/Nuit and Initial 36 variants run €445 to €525. The Bulova Sutton skeleton below at $625 is the alternative for $70 less, an open-worked Miyota on domed sapphire with no lug-to-lug published; the Charlie Paris's trade is 30 m, and its return is a full spec sheet and a named calibre.

See it at Charlie Paris

Spec sheet: charlie-paris.com, checked 19 September 2026. Charlie Paris brand page.

Lorier Astra (2026 core collection)
Photo: Lorier

Ø36 mm · automatic · 100 m · $699

Lorier Astra (2026 core collection)

8.8 mm thick
36 × 44 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementMiyota 9039
Case36 mm
Lug to lug44 mm
Thickness8.8 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystaldomed sapphire, 7-layer internal AR
Bezelfixed, polished
LumeSuper-LumiNova BGW9
Case material316L steel
Price$699

The Lorier to buy at $699 if it will live under a cuff: 8.8 mm of case plus a 1.6 mm domed crystal makes it the thinnest watch the brand makes and one of the thinnest 100 m automatics on this site. 36 mm, 44 mm lug to lug, Miyota 9039, Ref. 278081, a fixed polished bezel, and a bracelet with a push-button quick-adjust clasp. The alternative for the same $699 is the Falcon, the same case to the tenth of a millimetre, the difference being the dial, the bezel finish and the clasp. The trade against the Neptune at the same price is 100 m and a bezel that does not turn.

See it at Lorier

Spec sheet: lorierwatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Lorier brand page.

Lorier Roosevelt (Grand Central Watch limited edition)
Photo: Lorier

Ø36 mm · automatic · $799

Lorier Roosevelt (Grand Central Watch limited edition)

MovementMiyota 90S5
Case36 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width
Water resistance
Crystalacrylic
Bezelfixed
Case materialbronze case, bezel, crown and buckle
Price$799

Sold out at publication, an edition of 250 sold through Grand Central Watch alone, so the $799 is the price of a watch that now changes hands second-hand or not at all. 36 mm in bronze, case, bezel, crown and buckle, a Miyota 90S5 under an acrylic crystal, on Horween shell cordovan. Lorier's product page returns a 404, and no lug-to-lug, thickness or water rating was fetched, so the table carries three dashes. For the same $799 the Hyperion in the main list is steel, sapphire and a true GMT with every figure published. The Roosevelt's trade is acrylic on a dress watch, and the fact of its being gone.

See it at Lorier

Spec sheet: wornandwound.com, checked 19 September 2026. Lorier brand page.

Ikepod Duopod (Black Hour Glass)
Photo: Ikepod

Ø42 mm · quartz · $875

Ikepod Duopod (Black Hour Glass)

MovementQuartz
Case42 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width
Water resistance
CrystalNot stated
BezelFixed pebble case, no lugs
LumeLuminous hands
Case materialNot stated (second-generation thinner case)
Price$875 (US price on the maker's site)

The cheapest Ikepod at €690 on the maker's site, quartz, in a 42 mm lugless pebble that the listing says appears as 39 mm, with luminous hands and a second-generation case described as thinner without a figure. Case material, crystal and water resistance are not stated. The Tom Christopher edition is €890 in 111 pieces. For a quartz at this money Autodromo's Group C is $450 at 38.5 mm, 40 mm lug-to-lug and 11.4 mm in anodised aluminium with 50 m, and Brew's Metric Lite is $375 on a Miyota 6T27 automatic. The Duopod is €690 for Newson's shape and a battery, with three blanks on the sheet; the shape is the whole purchase.

See it at Ikepod

Spec sheet: ikepod.com, checked 19 September 2026. Ikepod brand page.

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium 40mm
Photo: Tissot

Ø40 mm · automatic · 100 m · $950

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium 40mm

MovementPowermatic 80 automatic with silicon balance spring, 80h reserve
Case40 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness11.5 mm
Lug width21 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystalsapphire, AR underside
Bezelfixed
Case material316L steel
Price$950

The closed-dial Gentleman, $950 on the bracelet, $75 less than the Open Heart on the under-$1,500 list in the same case. 40 mm, 11.5 mm thick, 21 mm lugs, Powermatic 80 with a silicon balance spring and an 80-hour reserve, 100 m, sapphire with AR on the underside. No lug-to-lug is published. At the same $950 the Visodate below is 1 mm smaller, 1.05 mm thinner and rated 50 m; the Gentleman is the one for a pool. The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38 at $845 is the alternative with a published lug-to-lug; the Gentleman's trade is $105 for the silicon spring and a dial that does not say field.

See it at Tissot

Spec sheet: tissotwatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Tissot brand page.

Tissot Visodate Powermatic 80 39mm
Photo: Tissot

Ø39 mm · automatic · 50 m · $950

Tissot Visodate Powermatic 80 39mm

MovementPowermatic 80 automatic, 80h reserve
Case39 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness10.45 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystalsapphire, AR underside
Bezelfixed
LumeSuper-LumiNova on dauphine hands (Tissot news page)
Case material316L steel
Price$950

The thinnest Tissot on the page at 10.45 mm, and the one rated for rain rather than water: 50 m. 39 mm, 20 mm lugs, Powermatic 80 with an 80-hour reserve, sapphire with AR on the underside, lume on the dauphine hands, on the grains-of-rice bracelet, $950. No lug-to-lug is published. At the same $950 the Gentleman is 100 m and 1.05 mm thicker, the whole difference on paper. The Marathon Officer's at $675 in the main list is the other small Swiss 50 m watch here, 3 mm smaller and $275 less; the Visodate's trade is the rating.

See it at Tissot

Spec sheet: tissotwatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Tissot brand page.

$1,000 to $2,500

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Open Heart 40mm
Photo: Tissot

Ø40 mm · automatic · 100 m · $1,025

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Open Heart 40mm

MovementPowermatic 80 automatic, open-heart dial
Case40 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness11.5 mm
Lug width21 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystalsapphire, AR underside
Case materialsteel
LumeSuper-LumiNova on hands
Price$1,025

The dress watch of the list, and the open heart costs $75 over the closed-dial Gentleman Silicium at $950 in the same case. 40 mm, 11.5 mm thick, 21 mm lugs, Powermatic 80 with an aperture over the balance, 100 m, sapphire with AR on the underside, Super-LumiNova on the hands, on the bracelet, $1,025. No lug-to-lug is published and the page carries no assembly statement. The Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart at $1,245 on the under-$2,000 list is the same idea for $220 more: 40 mm, 11.05 mm, 50 m, on leather. The Hamilton is the thinner watch; the Tissot is the one on a bracelet with a rating fit for a pool.

See it at Tissot

Spec sheet: tissotwatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Tissot brand page.

Farer Marsden 35mm Cushion Case
Photo: Farer

Ø35 mm · hand wound · 50 m · $1,165

Farer Marsden 35mm Cushion Case

10 mm thick
35 × 38 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSellita SW210-1 b Elaboré hand-wound
Case35 mm
Lug to lug38 mm
Thickness10 mm
Lug width18 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalDomed sapphire, inner AR; exhibition back
BezelFixed
Case material316L stainless steel
Price$1,165

The cheapest Farer at $1,165 (£1,045) and the smallest, and the one for a wrist that finds 38 mm large. A 35 mm cushion case the brand states at 38 mm lug to lug, 10 mm thick, 18 mm lugs, Sellita SW210-1 hand-wound, 50 m, exhibition back, no lume listed. The Furneaux, Belzoni and Benham Black are the same watch at the same price with different dials. The alternative in the hand-wound dress row is the Solander at $130 more, 3 mm larger in diameter and 2 mm thinner. The trade at $1,165 is 18 mm lugs, which narrow the strap choice, and a 50 m rating.

See it at Farer

Spec sheet: farer.com, checked 19 September 2026. Farer brand page.

Baltic Prismic
Photo: Baltic

Ø36 mm · hand wound · 30 m · $1,208

Baltic Prismic

9.2 mm thick
36 × 44 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementETA/Peseux 7001 hand-wound
Case36 mm
Lug to lug44 mm
Thickness9.2 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
CrystalDouble-domed sapphire, inner AR
BezelPolished upper / circular-brushed lower
Case material316L stainless steel and Grade 5 titanium
Price$1,208 (maker's on-page estimate, billed in euros)

The thinnest Baltic at 9.2 mm and, from €990, the first with a Swiss movement. 36 mm across, 44 mm lug to lug, ETA/Peseux 7001 hand-wound, 30 m, double-domed sapphire, a case of 316L steel and grade 5 titanium polished above and circular-brushed below, on Italian calf leather or a steel mesh bracelet, in Salmon, Purple or Green (Grey Blue was out of stock at check). No lume is listed. The alternative for €445 less is the MR Classic, the same 36 mm by 44 mm footprint, 0.7 mm thicker, under hesalite, on a micro-rotor automatic. The trade for going Swiss is winding it yourself, and 30 m means keeping it dry.

See it at Baltic

Spec sheet: baltic-watches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Baltic brand page.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto 40mm
Photo: Hamilton

Ø40 mm · automatic · 50 m · $1,245

Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto 40mm

MovementH-10 automatic (80h power reserve)
Case40 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness11.05 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystalsapphire
Case materialsteel
Price$1,245

The dress watch of the list and its cheapest entry, bought for the 80-hour H-10 seen through the dial and not for the 50 m rating. 40 mm, 11.05 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, sapphire, on leather, $1,245. Hamilton publishes no lug-to-lug and states no lume. The Tissot Gentleman Open Heart on the under-$1,500 list is the same idea for $220 less: $1,025 on a bracelet, 100 m, 11.5 mm. The Hamilton is 0.45 mm thinner and rated to half the depth. From the same maker, the Khaki Field Titanium Auto 42 at $1,195 is the field alternative (11.45 mm, 100 m, titanium, on leather; the bracelet reference showed no price on the US page).

See it at Hamilton

Spec sheet: hamiltonwatch.com, checked 19 September 2026. Hamilton brand page.

Farer Solander Lissom
Photo: Farer

Ø38 mm · hand wound · 50 m · $1,295

Farer Solander Lissom

7.95 mm thick
38 × 42.8 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLa Joux-Perret D100 hand-wound, soigné grade
Case38 mm
Lug to lug42.8 mm
Thickness7.95 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalFlat sapphire, AR both sides
BezelFixed
LumeGrade X2 Super-LumiNova, Lumicast numerals
Case material316L stainless steel
Price$1,295

The thinnest Farer at 7.95 mm, and the lower-priced route to a La Joux-Perret D100 in this data set: $1,295 (£1,150), against Baltic's Prismic Stone at €1,450 on the same calibre. 38 mm, 42.8 mm lug to lug, 50 m, flat sapphire with AR on both faces, soigné grade, Lumicast numerals in Grade X2 Super-LumiNova, which is unusual on a dress watch this thin. Out of stock at check. The alternative in the hand-wound row is the Marsden at $130 less, 3 mm smaller and 2 mm thicker. The trade is that you wind it, keep it out of the water, and wait for the next run.

See it at Farer

Spec sheet: farer.com, checked 19 September 2026. Farer brand page.

Bravur BW003 (black dial)
Photo: Bravur

Ø39 mm · automatic · 50 m · $1,350

Bravur BW003 (black dial)

MovementSellita SW300-1 automatic, 25 jewels, 42h
Case39 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalDomed sapphire, inner AR
BezelFixed
LumeLuminova C1 indices, Super-LumiNova C1 hand tips
Case materialSandvik stainless steel (Swedish)
Price$1,350

The dress watch at $1,350, built on order in 2 weeks: 39 mm, 20 mm lug, 50 m, Sellita SW300-1 with 42 h and 25 jewels, domed sapphire, a case in Swedish Sandvik steel with a steel or sapphire back, on vegetable-tanned leather. Silver and bottle green dials are also listed. Neither lug-to-lug nor thickness is published, and for a dress watch thickness is the number that decides a cuff. Farer's Solander Lissom is $1,295 at 38 mm, 42.8 mm and 7.95 mm on a hand-wound La Joux-Perret; Furlan Marri's Cornes de Vache is CHF 1,250 at 10.5 mm. The BW003's case is the argument, and the $155 over the Team Heritage buys the SW300-1, a step up Sellita's range.

See it at Bravur

Spec sheet: bravurwatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Bravur brand page.

Frédérique Constant Classics Index Automatic 40mm
Photo: via retailer

Ø40 mm · automatic · $1,495

Frédérique Constant Classics Index Automatic 40mm

MovementFC-303 automatic (Sellita SW200 base)
Case40 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width
Water resistance
Crystal
Case materialsteel
Price$1,495

$5 under the line, on an authorised retailer's price, because frederiqueconstant.com returned a 403 on the check date and the listing carries no case specs; the table is diameter, movement and price and nothing else. 40 mm, steel, the FC-303 automatic on a Sellita SW200 base, a name taken from the reference prefix rather than a fetched page, white dial on leather, $1,495. A search snippet had Costco at $799.99 for a green-dial bracelet version. The Tissot Gentleman Open Heart at $1,025 in the main list is the dress alternative with a published thickness and rating; the Frédérique Constant's trade is $470 for a sheet this site could not read.

See it at Frédérique Constant

Spec sheet: teddybaldassarre.com, checked 19 September 2026. Frédérique Constant brand page.

Ophion OPH 960
Photo: Ophion

Ø42.9 mm · hand wound · €1,305 · Priced in EUR by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Ophion OPH 960

Movementhand-wound 13.25-ligne double-barrel, 5-day reserve, 26 jewels
Case42.9 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness10.35 mm
Lug width22 mm
Water resistance
Crystaldomed sapphire top, flat sapphire back
BezelFixed, 42mm
LumeSuper-LumiNova C3 on inner bezel hour marks
Case material316L stainless steel, hand polished
Price€1,305 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

The watch Ophion started with in 2015, and the one with the longest reserve: a 13¼-line hand-wound with 2 barrels, 26 jewels and 5 days. 42.9 mm across, 42 mm at the bezel, 10.35 mm thick, 22 mm lug, 316L steel, Super-LumiNova C3 on the inner bezel marks, on leather. Sold out at check, with reservations open and no price shown; the EUR 1,305 is SJX's before-tax launch figure. Against the Vélos it is 4.4 mm larger on the same thickness, with 3 more days of reserve. Nothing else in this data offers 5 days hand-wound; the Baltic Prismic at €990 gives 42 hours on a Peseux 7001 in 36 mm.

See it at Ophion

Spec sheet: ophion-watches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Ophion brand page.

Furlan Marri Cornes de Vache 'Blue Sector'
Photo: Furlan Marri

Ø37.5 mm · automatic · 50 m · $1,550

Furlan Marri Cornes de Vache 'Blue Sector'

10.5 mm thick
37.5 × 46 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLa Joux-Perret G100 automatic, 68h
Case37.5 mm
Lug to lug46 mm
Thickness10.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire front and back, AR
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel
Price$1,550 (US price on the maker's site)

The same case and calibre as the White Sector at the same $1,550, with a blue sector dial and a sand and light-blue leather pair. 37.5 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 10.5 mm, 20 mm lugs, La Joux-Perret G100 with a 68-hour reserve, 50 m, sapphire front and back with AR, lume not stated. "Only a few left" on the check date. Each dial is its own listing at the maker, so all three are here. For the same money the Salmon Sector below swaps blued hands for gunmetal PVD and was out of stock; the White Sector above is the one with Breguet numerals and a few left.

See it at Furlan Marri

Spec sheet: furlanmarri.com, checked 19 September 2026. Furlan Marri brand page.

Furlan Marri Cornes de Vache 'Salmon Sector' (2154-A)
Photo: Furlan Marri

Ø37.5 mm · automatic · 50 m · $1,550

Furlan Marri Cornes de Vache 'Salmon Sector' (2154-A)

10.5 mm thick
37.5 × 46 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLa Joux-Perret G100 automatic, 68h
Case37.5 mm
Lug to lug46 mm
Thickness10.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire front and back, AR
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel
Price$1,550 (US price on the maker's site)

Out of stock on the check date with a restock listed for early November, at the same $1,550. The case and calibre are the White Sector's: 37.5 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 10.5 mm, 20 mm lugs, La Joux-Perret G100, 68-hour reserve, 50 m, sapphire front and back. What changes is the salmon sector dial with gunmetal PVD indexes and hands, on green Italian and black French leather. The White Sector above is the same watch with blued hands and a few left. The Charlie Paris Alliance Saphir at $1,745 is the dress alternative in stock, 1.5 mm thinner and rated 100 m, for $195 more.

See it at Furlan Marri

Spec sheet: furlanmarri.com, checked 19 September 2026. Furlan Marri brand page.

Furlan Marri Cornes de Vache 'White Sector' (2161-A)
Photo: Furlan Marri

Ø37.5 mm · automatic · 50 m · $1,550

Furlan Marri Cornes de Vache 'White Sector' (2161-A)

10.5 mm thick
37.5 × 46 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLa Joux-Perret G100 automatic, 68h, 24 jewels
Case37.5 mm
Lug to lug46 mm
Thickness10.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire front and back, AR and anti-fingerprint
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel, perlage/mirror/satin finishes, cornes-de-vache lugs
Price$1,550 (US price on the maker's site)

The dress watch to buy at $1,550 for the case: cornes-de-vache lugs on a 37.5 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 10.5 mm steel case with a La Joux-Perret G100 automatic and a 68-hour reserve. 20 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire front and back, blued steel hands over applied Breguet indexes, two leather straps. "Only a few left" on the check date. No lume is stated. The Serica Parade at $1,760 is the other dress case on this page: 35 mm, 8.2 mm, 100 m and a COSC certificate for $210 more. The Furlan Marri has the reserve and the lugs; the Serica has the certificate and twice the rating.

See it at Furlan Marri

Spec sheet: furlanmarri.com, checked 19 September 2026. Furlan Marri brand page.

Junghans max bill Automatic 38mm (sapphire)
Photo: Junghans

Ø38 mm · automatic · 50 m · €1,485 · Priced in EUR by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Junghans max bill Automatic 38mm (sapphire)

MovementJunghans J800.1 automatic, 38h reserve
Case38 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness10 mm
Lug width
Water resistance50 m
Crystaldomed AR sapphire
Bezelfixed
Case materialpolished stainless steel
Price€1,485 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

The max bill to buy is this one, reference 27/4700.02, the 38 mm automatic under sapphire at €1,485 including VAT on junghans.de, in stock on the check date. Junghans J800.1 automatic with a 38-hour reserve, 10 mm thick, 50 m, domed sapphire with AR, polished steel. The maker publishes no lug-to-lug or lug width and states no lume. The Meister Handaufzug below at €1,590 is €105 more and 2.7 mm thinner, hand-wound; the NOMOS Tangente 35 on the under-$2,500 list shows €1,860 on its international page, 6.2 mm on the brand's own calibre. The trade-off is a 38-hour reserve and a sheet with two dashes on it.

See it at Junghans

Spec sheet: junghans.de, checked 19 September 2026. Junghans brand page.

Baltic Prismic Stone Pietersite
Photo: Baltic

Ø36 mm · hand wound · 30 m · $1,736

Baltic Prismic Stone Pietersite

9.2 mm thick
36 × 44 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLa Joux-Perret D100 hand-wound
Case36 mm
Lug to lug44 mm
Thickness9.2 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
CrystalDouble-domed sapphire, inner AR
BezelPolished upper / circular-brushed lower
Case material316L stainless steel and Grade 5 titanium
Price$1,736 (maker's on-page estimate, billed in euros)

The stone-dial Prismic is a different watch rather than a dial option: the movement changes to a La Joux-Perret D100 hand-wound and the price to €1,450 for the Pietersite, €1,300 for the other stone dials. The case is the base Prismic's, 36 mm, 44 mm lug to lug, 9.2 mm thick, steel and grade 5 titanium, 30 m, double-domed sapphire, on a brushed steel mesh bracelet. The alternative at close to the money is Farer's Solander, the same D100 at $1,295 (£1,150) in a 38 mm case 1.25 mm thinner. The trade against the €990 Prismic is €460 for the stone and the calibre; the size and the rating do not move.

See it at Baltic

Spec sheet: baltic-watches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Baltic brand page.

Charlie Paris Alliance Saphir (Bleu)
Photo: Charlie Paris

Ø39.5 mm · automatic · 100 m · $1,745

Charlie Paris Alliance Saphir (Bleu)

9 mm thick
39.5 × 46.5 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSoprod P024 automatic, 25 jewels, 4Hz, -0/+14 s/d
Case39.5 mm
Lug to lug46.5 mm
Thickness9 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
CrystalCustom double-domed sapphire, AR; sapphire back
BezelFixed, circular brushed
LumeSuper-LumiNova at 12/3/6/9
Case material316L steel
Price$1,745 (US price on the maker's site)

A 9 mm automatic dress watch rated to 100 m, $1,745 on the bracelet (€1,075), and the price is for the dial: smoked blue sapphire glass over a Soprod P024. 39.5 mm, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 9 mm excluding the double-domed crystal, 20 mm lugs, sapphire back, Super-LumiNova at 12, 3, 6 and 9, on steel, leather or rubber. The Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart at $1,245 is the mainstream dress automatic on this page, 11.05 mm and 50 m, so the Charlie Paris is 2.05 mm thinner and rated twice as deep for $500 more. The Furlan Marri at $1,550 has the lugs; the Charlie Paris has the rating.

See it at Charlie Paris

Spec sheet: charlie-paris.com, checked 19 September 2026. Charlie Paris brand page.

Serica Ref. 1174-1 Parade
Photo: Serica

Ø35 mm · automatic · 100 m · $1,760

Serica Ref. 1174-1 Parade

8.2 mm thick
35 × 41 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSoprod M100 automatic, COSC
Case35 mm
Lug to lug41 mm
Thickness8.2 mm
Lug width18 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystal1.3mm beveled sapphire, inner AR
BezelDouble-step fixed, brushed top / polished bevels
Case material316L stainless steel, polished/satin
Price$1,760 (as shown to US buyers on the maker's site)

The thinnest and smallest watch on the list, and it carries a COSC certificate and a 100 m rating at 8.2 mm, which few makers manage at 35 mm. 41 mm lug-to-lug, 18 mm lugs, Soprod M100 chronometer, 1.3 mm bevelled sapphire with inner AR, double-step bezel, no lume stated, grained calfskin with the brand's Stadium buckle, $1,760 as the maker's store shows it to US buyers (€1,490). The 1174-2 and Lin dials are the same price. Made in Switzerland per the brand. The NOMOS Tangente 35 at $2,330 on the under-$2,500 list is the other 35 mm hand-wound dress case: 6.2 mm, the brand's own calibre, 50 m. The Serica has twice the rating and the certificate, for less.

See it at Serica

Spec sheet: serica-watches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Serica brand page.

Junghans Meister Handaufzug 37.7mm
Photo: Junghans

Ø37.7 mm · hand wound · 50 m · €1,590 · Priced in EUR by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Junghans Meister Handaufzug 37.7mm

MovementJunghans J815.1 hand-wound, small seconds, 42h reserve
Case37.7 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness7.3 mm
Lug width
Water resistance50 m
CrystalAR sapphire
Case materialstainless steel, screwed caseback
Price€1,590 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

A 7.3 mm hand-wound with small seconds at €1,590 including 19% VAT, and the thinnest watch on this page by 0.9 mm over the Serica Parade. Reference 27/3504.02 on the page read: 37.7 mm, Junghans J815.1 hand-wound with a 42-hour reserve, 50 m, sapphire with AR, screwed steel back. No lug-to-lug or lug width is published and no lume is stated. US dealers quoted it in search snippets that were not fetched, so the row holds the euro figure only. The Serica Parade, €1,490 on its own store, is 8.2 mm, 35 mm, 100 m and COSC-certified; the Junghans is thinner and larger, at 50 m, without a certificate.

See it at Junghans

Spec sheet: junghans.de, checked 19 September 2026. Junghans brand page.

Kurono Tokyo 2026 Anniversary Malachite
Photo: Kurono Tokyo

Ø37 mm · automatic · 50 m · $1,850

Kurono Tokyo 2026 Anniversary Malachite

11.5 mm thick
37 × 45 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementMiyota 90S5 automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph, ~40h
Case37 mm
Lug to lug45 mm
Thickness11.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire box crystal
BezelFixed, high-polished
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel, high-polished
Price$1,850

The anniversary piece at $1,850 ex-VAT, RMB 15,800 at the Shanghai salon, sold in two windows on 28 May 2026 at 11:00 and 23:00 JST, one per customer, delivering from July and not to be repeated: 37 mm, 11.5 mm, 50 m on the brand's page, Miyota 90S5, sapphire box crystal. The 45 mm lug-to-lug is Monochrome's measurement, not the brand's, which publishes none. Against the Inseki it is the same case with malachite in place of meteorite and 50 m stated in place of 30. anOrdain's Model 1 is £1,790 before VAT at 38 mm, 42 mm lug-to-lug and 10.1 mm with an enamel dial fired in Glasgow, and it takes orders.

See it at Kurono Tokyo

Spec sheet: kuronotokyo.com, checked 19 September 2026. Kurono Tokyo brand page.

Kurono Tokyo 2026 Special Projects 37mm Inseki (meteorite)
Photo: Kurono Tokyo

Ø37 mm · automatic · 30 m · $1,850

Kurono Tokyo 2026 Special Projects 37mm Inseki (meteorite)

MovementMiyota 90S5 automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph, ~40h
Case37 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness11.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
CrystalSapphire box crystal
BezelFixed, high-polished
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel, high-polished
Price$1,850

The meteorite Kurono at $1,850, sold out since its single global window on 15 January 2026 at 23:00 JST: 37 mm, 11.5 mm with the crystal and 7 mm without, 30 m, Miyota 90S5, a Muonionalusta meteorite dial with hand-painted Breguet numerals, calf strap on a 20/16 mm lug. Zelos's Comet 39 Meteorite is $2,099 at 39 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug and 9.4 mm on a hand-wound Peseux 7001, and Baltic's Prismic Stone is €1,450 at 36 mm and 9.2 mm; both are thinner, both are Swiss-movement, and the Zelos had 37 pieces remaining on the check date. The Inseki's argument is the numerals and Asaoka's name on the dial.

See it at Kurono Tokyo

Spec sheet: kuronotokyo.com, checked 19 September 2026. Kurono Tokyo brand page.

Monta Noble (38.5mm)
Photo: Monta

Ø38.5 mm · automatic · 150 m · $1,895

Monta Noble (38.5mm)

9.7 mm thick
38.5 × 47 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementMONTA Caliber M-22 (Sellita SW300 base), 56h
Case38.5 mm
Lug to lug47 mm
Thickness9.7 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance150 m
CrystalFlat beveled sapphire, 7-layer inner AR
BezelFixed, mirror polished
LumeSuper-LumiNova BGW9
Case material316L steel, screw-down crown, sapphire back
Price$1,895

The thinnest Monta at 9.7 mm and the smallest at 38.5 mm, on the same 47 mm lug-to-lug as the Atlas, which is where the size stops being small: 150 m, M-22, mirror-polished fixed bezel, 7-layer AR, sapphire back, bracelet with the 3-slot clasp, $1,895. Sold out at check. The Noble Voyager at $2,150 is this watch on the M-23 GMT at 10.7 mm. Against the Noble 40 at the same price you give up 50 m and 1.5 mm of diameter and gain 0.8 mm of thinness. The Christopher Ward Twelve 38 is 9.95 mm and 43.3 mm lug-to-lug at £1,095 on the maker's site; that case is short as well as thin, and this one is not.

See it at Monta

Spec sheet: montawatch.com, checked 19 September 2026. Monta brand page.

Monta Noble 40
Photo: Monta

Ø40 mm · automatic · 200 m · $1,895

Monta Noble 40

10.5 mm thick
40 × 47.8 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementMONTA Caliber M-22 (Sellita SW300 base), 56h
Case40 mm
Lug to lug47.8 mm
Thickness10.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance200 m
CrystalFlat beveled sapphire
BezelFixed, polished
LumeSuper-LumiNova BGW9
Case material316L steel, screw-down crown with guards
Price$1,895

The Triumph in a dinner jacket: the same 40 mm case, 47.8 mm lug-to-lug, 10.5 mm, 200 m, M-22, crown guards and 3-slot bracelet, with a polished fixed bezel and a plain dial, $1,895 in black or blue. Sold out at check. The $45 over the Triumph buys the finish. Against the Noble 38.5 you gain 50 m and 1.5 mm of diameter for 0.8 mm of thickness. The Formex Essence 39 at $1,980 is 45.5 mm lug-to-lug and 10 mm thick on a COSC-certified Sellita, 2.3 mm shorter; the NOMOS Club Campus at $2,070 is 8.5 mm on a calibre of its own. The Noble's reply is 200 m and the clasp.

See it at Monta

Spec sheet: montawatch.com, checked 19 September 2026. Monta brand page.

Farer Stratton Moonphase
Photo: Farer

Ø38.5 mm · hand wound · 50 m · $2,075

Farer Stratton Moonphase

11.5 mm thick
38.5 × 43.8 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSellita SW288-1 M a Elaboré hand-wound moonphase
Case38.5 mm
Lug to lug43.8 mm
Thickness11.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalCurved sapphire, multi-layer AR; exhibition back
BezelFixed, brushed chamfer
LumeGrade X2 Super-LumiNova; Lumicast markers
Case material316L stainless steel, gold PVD
Price$2,075

The moonphase at $2,075 (£1,825), and a watch bought for the complication, since the case figures are those of a dress watch: 38.5 mm, 43.8 mm lug to lug, 11.5 mm thick, 50 m. Sellita SW288-1 M hand-wound, curved sapphire, exhibition back, gold PVD over 316L steel, 7 leather strap options on a gold PVD buckle. 150 pieces planned, 75 in the first batch, not numbered; listed as returning in late 2026. The alternative in the hand-wound row is the Marsden, $910 less, 3.5 mm smaller, without the moonphase or the PVD. The trade is 50 m, and a wait until late in the year.

See it at Farer

Spec sheet: farer.com, checked 19 September 2026. Farer brand page.

Zelos Comet 39 'Meteorite'
Photo: Zelos

Ø39 mm · hand wound · 50 m · $2,099

Zelos Comet 39 'Meteorite'

9.4 mm thick
39 × 45 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSwiss ETA/Peseux 7001 hand-wound, reworked bridges
Case39 mm
Lug to lug45 mm
Thickness9.4 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalBox sapphire; rear display sapphire
BezelFixed
LumeSuper-LumiNova BGW9 X1
Case material316L stainless steel
Price$2,099

A Peseux 7001 under a meteorite dial for $2,099, and, unusually for Zelos, in stock: 37 pieces remaining on the check date. 39 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 9.4 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, hand-wound with reworked bridges, 50 m, box sapphire with a display back, Super-LumiNova BGW9 X1, on a 316L bracelet tapering 20 to 16 mm with an external quick-adjust clasp. The Vulcan and mother-of-pearl dials are $1,999. Assembly is not stated on the brand's pages. The same 7001 sits in the Furlan Marri Disco Volante, retired and priced in francs before tax, so that one stays in the notes. The NOMOS Club Campus at $2,070 is the hand-wound at this money with the brand's own calibre and a stated origin; the Zelos is the one with the dial.

See it at Zelos

Spec sheet: zeloswatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Zelos brand page.

Nomos Ludwig 35
Photo: Nomos

Ø35 mm · hand wound · 50 m · $2,290

Nomos Ludwig 35

6.3 mm thick
35 × 45 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementDUW 4001 hand-wound, in-house
Case35 mm
Lug to lug45 mm
Thickness6.3 mm
Lug width18 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystalsapphire
Case materialsteel
Price$2,290

The Tangente's sibling, $2,290 on the US store, $40 less than the Tangente 35 and 0.1 mm thicker at 6.3 mm. 35 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 18 mm lugs, NOMOS Glashütte's own hand-wound DUW 4001, 50 m, sapphire, steel back, no lume. The international page shows €1,820. It is here rather than on the main list only because two NOMOS were already there; on every figure but the dial it is the Tangente 35, and the Tangente 35 is the reference. The Club Campus at $2,070 is the same calibre at 100 m for $220 less; the Ludwig is the one at 6.3 mm.

See it at Nomos

Spec sheet: nomos-glashuette.com, checked 19 September 2026. Nomos brand page.

Nomos Tangente 35 (hand-wound)
Photo: Nomos

Ø35 mm · hand wound · 50 m · $2,330

Nomos Tangente 35 (hand-wound)

6.2 mm thick
35 × 45 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementDUW 4001 hand-wound, in-house
Case35 mm
Lug to lug45 mm
Thickness6.2 mm
Lug width18 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystalsapphire
Case materialsteel
Price$2,330

The reference NOMOS Glashütte design, 6.2 mm thick on the hand-wound DUW 4001, $2,330 on the US store (€1,860 on the international page). 35 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 18 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire, steel back, Shell Cordovan strap. No lume. The Ludwig 35 is the sibling on the same calibre at $2,290 and 6.3 mm; both are the thinnest entries on this page by 2.3 mm over the Club Campus. Second NOMOS here because the Club is the sport line and the Tangente the dress line, at different prices. The Club Campus at $2,070 is the same calibre with twice the rating for less; the Tangente is the one at 6.2 mm. The Club Sport neomatik 37 with the automatic DUW 3001 is $4,140 and in the notes.

See it at Nomos

Spec sheet: nomos-glashuette.com, checked 19 September 2026. Nomos brand page.

Kurono Tokyo Calendrier SBR (2026)
Photo: Kurono Tokyo

Ø38 mm · automatic · 50 m · $2,380

Kurono Tokyo Calendrier SBR (2026)

MovementMiyota 9122 automatic triple calendar, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph, 40h
Case38 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness11.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire box crystal
BezelFixed, high-polished
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel, high-polished
Price$2,380

The one Kurono still to be sold, at $2,380 excluding VAT and duties, JPY 376,750 tax included, in a single online window on 24 September 2026 at 23:00 JST, one per customer, delivering from the end of October: 38 mm, 11.5 mm with the crystal and 10 mm without, 50 m, Miyota 9122 automatic triple calendar showing month, day and date, Saxe blue dial, sapphire box crystal. Charlie Paris's Alliance Phase de Lune is €1,795 at 39.5 mm and 9 mm on a Soprod C105 with a moonphase; Farer's Stratton Moonphase is $2,075 at 38.5 mm and 11.5 mm. At $2,380 the money is the 38 mm case and Asaoka's dial, not the calibre.

See it at Kurono Tokyo

Spec sheet: kuronotokyo.com, checked 19 September 2026. Kurono Tokyo brand page.

Charlie Paris Alliance Phase de Lune (Blanc)
Photo: Charlie Paris

Ø39.5 mm · automatic · 30 m · $2,445

Charlie Paris Alliance Phase de Lune (Blanc)

9 mm thick
39.5 × 46.5 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSoprod C105 automatic perpetual moonphase, 33 jewels, 4Hz, 42h
Case39.5 mm
Lug to lug46.5 mm
Thickness9 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
CrystalDouble-domed sapphire, AR; sapphire back
BezelFixed
LumeSuper-LumiNova BL Grade A at 12/3/6/9
Case material316L steel
Price$2,445 (US price on the maker's site)

The moonphase at this money, $2,445 (€1,795), sold out on the check date in every dial. 39.5 mm, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 9 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Soprod C105 automatic with a moonphase the maker says holds for 122 years, 42-hour reserve, 30 m, double-domed sapphire with a sapphire back, Super-LumiNova BL Grade A at the quarters. It shares its case with the Alliance Saphir at $1,745 on the under-$2,000 list, which is rated 100 m; the moonphase costs $700 and 70 m. The Farer Stratton Moonphase at $2,075 was listed as returning late 2026, so neither moonphase here could be bought on 19 September.

See it at Charlie Paris

Spec sheet: charlie-paris.com, checked 19 September 2026. Charlie Paris brand page.

anOrdain Model 1 (Parisian Blue)
Photo: anOrdain

Ø38 mm · automatic · 50 m · $2,446

anOrdain Model 1 (Parisian Blue)

10.1 mm thick
38 × 42 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSellita SW210-1 hand-wound, LJP G101 automatic, or A1 decorated G101
Case38 mm
Lug to lug42 mm
Thickness10.1 mm
Lug width16 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire, three-layer AR
BezelFixed, polished
LumeNot stated
Case materialPolished hardened 316L steel
Price$2,446 (US price on the maker's site)

A vitreous enamel dial fired on copper, $2,446 as anOrdain's store shows it to US buyers (£1,790 before VAT) for the hand-wound Sellita SW210-1; the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic adds £320. Three sizes, 35, 38 and 41 mm; the 42 mm lug-to-lug in the table is the small size's, and the 38 shown here is 10.1 mm thick with 16 mm lugs, 50 m, hardened 316L, sapphire with a three-layer AR. Iron Cream, Oxblood and Teal are the same price. The NOMOS Tangente 35 at $2,330 is the dress alternative for $116 less, 6.2 mm on the brand's own calibre; the anOrdain is the enamel, at 3.9 mm thicker.

See it at anOrdain

Spec sheet: anordain.com, checked 19 September 2026. anOrdain brand page.

Zelos Comet 39 'Tantalum' Limited Edition
Photo: Zelos

Ø39 mm · hand wound · 50 m · $2,499

Zelos Comet 39 'Tantalum' Limited Edition

9.4 mm thick
39 × 45 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSwiss ETA/Peseux 7001 hand-wound, reworked bridges
Case39 mm
Lug to lug45 mm
Thickness9.4 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalBox sapphire; rear display sapphire
BezelFixed, polished lug edges
LumeSuper-LumiNova BGW9 X1
Case materialTantalum
Price$2,499

The case is the point, and it is priced under every other tantalum watch here: 39 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 9.4 mm thick, 50 m, with a guilloché crystallised-titanium dial, on an ETA/Peseux 7001 hand-wound with reworked bridges, $2,499, 50 pieces, sold out. The high-end tier runs $1,899 (Artemis Titanium) to $2,499 (this and the Skyraider 40 Skeleton Tantalum on a Marvin 700), all sold in timed drops and mostly gone; the entry lines start at $399 on Seiko and Miyota. Zelos does not state where the watches are assembled, and the warranty is one year, the shortest on this page. The exotic-metal work is real; the ranking stops there because nothing else is published.

See it at Zelos

Spec sheet: zeloswatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Zelos brand page.

$2,500 to $5,000

Ball Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40 mm
Photo: Ball

Ø40 mm · automatic · 100 m · $2,549

Ball Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40 mm

12.45 mm thick
40 × 46.6 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementBALL RR1103-C automatic, COSC chronometer
Case40 mm
Lug to lug46.6 mm
Thickness12.45 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
CrystalAR sapphire
Bezelfixed
Lume14 micro gas tubes on hands and dial
Case material904L stainless steel, mu-metal shield
Price$2,549

A certificate with every dimension printed: COSC, 904L steel, a mu-metal shield and all three measurements, for $2,549 with import duties included when the page is read from a US address. 40 mm, 46.6 mm lug-to-lug, 12.45 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, RR1103-C automatic, AR sapphire, 14 micro gas tubes on hands and dial; Ball prices by location, £2,110 from the UK. The Longines Spirit 40 is $1 more, also certified, and publishes none of the three dimensions. The Roadmaster GMT above is $950 more for the second zone, 300 m and 1.55 mm of thickness. The 12.45 mm is the only figure against it.

See it at Ball

Spec sheet: ballwatch.com, checked 19 September 2026. Ball brand page.

Longines Master Collection 40 mm (silver barleycorn, bracelet)
Photo: Longines

Ø40 mm · automatic · 30 m · $2,550

Longines Master Collection 40 mm (silver barleycorn, bracelet)

MovementLongines L888 automatic, 72 h
Case40 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width
Water resistance30 m
Crystalsapphire
Bezelfixed
Case materialstainless steel
Price$2,550

Longines' dress automatic on the bracelet, $2,550, with the same L888 and 72 hours as the Legend Diver 42 and a 30 m rating in place of 300. 40 mm, sapphire, fixed bezel, steel, silver barleycorn dial. No thickness, lug-to-lug or lug width published, which is the Longines pattern on every row of this site. The Ball Marvelight above is $1 less with a certificate, 100 m and all three dimensions. The NOMOS Metro 38 date below is $1,190 more for a 7.8 mm hand-wound case that prints its length. For the money this is a barleycorn dial and a 72-hour calibre; the case is the unknown.

See it at Longines

Spec sheet: longines.com, checked 19 September 2026. Longines brand page.

Grand Seiko SBGX261 quartz 37mm
Photo: Grand Seiko

Ø37 mm · quartz · 100 m · $2,700

Grand Seiko SBGX261 quartz 37mm

10 mm thick
37 × 44.6 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementGrand Seiko 9F62 quartz, ±10 s/year
Case37 mm
Lug to lug44.6 mm
Thickness10 mm
Lug width19 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystalsapphire
Case materialsteel
Price$2,700

The cheaper Grand Seiko and the one with a rating you can write down: 100 m, against the "splash resistant" the SBGW301 above offers for $2,300 more. 37 mm, 44.6 mm lug-to-lug, 10 mm thick, 19 mm lugs, 9F62 quartz rated to plus or minus 10 seconds a year, sapphire, steel, $2,700 on the US site. Grand Seiko's own November 2024 price sheet had it at $2,300; the live page shows $2,700. The Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat above is $1,700 more for the other serious quartz on the page. The 9F is the reason to buy; the rise is the reason to check the page first.

See it at Grand Seiko

Spec sheet: grand-seiko.com, checked 19 September 2026. Grand Seiko brand page.

anOrdain Model 1 Porcelain
Photo: anOrdain

Ø38 mm · automatic · 50 m · $3,006

anOrdain Model 1 Porcelain

11 mm thick
38 × 46 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLJP G101 automatic or A1 decorated G101
Case38 mm
Lug to lug46 mm
Thickness11 mm
Lug width18 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire, three-layer AR
BezelFixed, polished
LumeNot stated
Case materialPolished 316L steel
Price$3,006 (US price on the maker's site)

A white glazed porcelain dial by anOrdain's in-house artist on the Model 1 case, $3,006 on the maker's US pricing with the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic, and a nine-month wait stated on the page on the check date. 38 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 11 mm thick, 18 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire with three-layer AR, polished 316L steel; the decorated A1 movement is £2,520 excluding VAT against £2,200. Lume is not stated. The Model 2 above is $376 less in more colours; the Fumé below is $669 more for the graded dial. This is the dial to wait for, and the wait is part of the price.

See it at anOrdain

Spec sheet: anordain.com, checked 19 September 2026. anOrdain brand page.

Furlan Marri Disco Volante 'Disco Celeste' (retired)
Photo: Furlan Marri

Ø38 mm · hand wound · 50 m · $3,100

Furlan Marri Disco Volante 'Disco Celeste' (retired)

MovementPeseux 7001 hand-wound, 42h, 24 jewels
Case38 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness8.95 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire front and back, AR
BezelFixed
LumeBGW9 Super-LumiNova on dial inserts and hands
Case material316L steel, satin and mirror
Price$3,100 (US price on the maker's site)

The blue Disco Volante, the same Peseux 7001 and the same $3,100 (CHF 2,500) as the Havana above, and also marked Retired. What this record adds: BGW9 Super-LumiNova on the dial inserts and hands, a satin and mirror finish on the 316L case, a blue and white leather strap plus a steel mesh bracelet in the box, Swiss Made with bridges hand-finished in Geneva per the maker. 38 mm, 8.95 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire front and back. Between the two there is nothing to choose but colour and what remains on the secondary market; the current Disco Onyx Diamonds is CHF 1,000 more.

See it at Furlan Marri

Spec sheet: furlanmarri.com, checked 19 September 2026. Furlan Marri brand page.

Furlan Marri Disco Volante (Disco Havana) hand-wound
Photo: Furlan Marri

Ø38 mm · hand wound · 50 m · $3,100

Furlan Marri Disco Volante (Disco Havana) hand-wound

MovementPeseux 7001 hand-wound
Case38 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness8.95 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystalsapphire front and back, AR and anti-fingerprint
Case material316L stainless steel
Price$3,100 (US price on the maker's site)

The Disco Volante in its Havana dial, $3,100 on the maker's US pricing (CHF 2,500 excluding tax), marked Retired on both check dates; the Disco Onyx Diamonds at CHF 3,500 is the only one in stock. There is no automatic in the line; it is the Peseux 7001 hand-wound throughout. 38 mm, 8.95 mm thick with the crystal and 8.10 mm without, 20 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire front and back with AR and an anti-fingerprint coat, 316L steel. The NOMOS Metro 38 date above is $640 more, 1.15 mm thinner and current. A retired watch is a secondary-market watch; the row records what the maker last asked.

See it at Furlan Marri

Spec sheet: furlanmarri.com, checked 19 September 2026. Furlan Marri brand page.

Seiko King Seiko KS1969 SJE109
Photo: Seiko

Ø39.4 mm · automatic · 50 m · $3,100

Seiko King Seiko KS1969 SJE109

9.9 mm thick
39.4 × 43.6 mm · ref 40 × 47
Movement6L35 automatic
Case39.4 mm
Lug to lug43.6 mm
Thickness9.9 mm
Lug width19 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystalbox-shaped sapphire
Bezelfixed
Case materialstainless steel
Price$3,100

The King Seiko on the US lineup now, and the shortest lug-to-lug on the page at 43.6 mm. 39.4 mm, 9.9 mm thick, 19 mm lugs, 50 m, 6L35 automatic, box-shaped sapphire, steel, $3,100. The 6R55 King Seiko SPB371 has gone from the US King Seiko page; the current range runs $3,100 to $3,850. The other Seiko under the line is the Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 at $2,900 (42.6 mm, 49.3 mm, 13.4 mm, 300 m, 8L35 with hand-winding, LumiBrite), in the notes. Against the Grand Seiko SBGW301 at $5,000: 1.8 mm thinner, $1,900 less, automatic against hand-wound, and Seiko states 50 m where Grand Seiko states "splash resistant". The $1,900 buys the Grand Seiko finishing, which this site does not measure.

See it at Seiko

Spec sheet: seikowatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Seiko brand page.

Fears Brunswick 40 Filton 'Raven Black' (strap)
Photo: Fears

Ø40 mm · automatic · 150 m · $3,500

Fears Brunswick 40 Filton 'Raven Black' (strap)

11.9 mm thick
40 × 46.5 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLa Joux-Perret G100 automatic, quick-set date
Case40 mm
Lug to lug46.5 mm
Thickness11.9 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance150 m
Crystalsapphire, ARdur AR both sides
Bezelfixed
LumeGrade A BGW9 Super-LumiNova
Case material316L stainless steel, polished and spun
Price$3,500

The Bristol brand's cushion case in 40 mm, $3,500 excluding VAT on the en-us store ($4,200 including it; $3,700 excluding VAT on the bracelet), and the one entry that itemises where each part was made. 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 11.9 mm thick to the top of the domed crystal, 20 mm lugs, 150 m, La Joux-Perret G100 automatic with a quick-set date, sapphire with ARdur AR on both sides, 316L steel polished and spun, Grade A BGW9 Super-LumiNova. Fears' spec sheet lists the case and caseback as made in Hong Kong, the dial in Germany and the movement in Switzerland, with assembly in Britain in small batches. Against the Bremont Supermarine below: 2.5 mm shorter lug-to-lug, 0.1 mm thinner, 150 m shallower, $650 less.

See it at Fears

Spec sheet: fearswatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Fears brand page.

anOrdain Model 1 Fumé (Blue)
Photo: anOrdain

Ø38 mm · automatic · 50 m · $3,675

anOrdain Model 1 Fumé (Blue)

MovementSellita SW210-1 hand-wound, LJP G101 automatic, or A1 decorated G101
Case38 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width16 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire, three-layer AR
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case materialPolished 316L steel
Price$3,675 (US price on the maker's site)

The fumé dial, $3,675 on the maker's US pricing, and the most expensive anOrdain on the page; the feed runs £2,690 to £3,645 across small, medium and large. 38 mm, 16 mm lugs, 50 m, Sellita SW210-1 hand-wound or La Joux-Perret G101 automatic, sapphire with three-layer AR, polished 316L steel. The feed carries no lug-to-lug or thickness for this variant, so both are dashes; Payne's Grey, Plum and Green are the same money. The Porcelain above is $669 less on the same case. The NOMOS Metro 38 date below is $65 more and 3.2 mm thinner than the Porcelain's 11 mm. The dial is the whole argument.

See it at anOrdain

Spec sheet: anordain.com, checked 19 September 2026. anOrdain brand page.

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 39 mm Calibre 5 (black dial, bracelet)
Photo: TAG Heuer

Ø39 mm · automatic · 100 m · $3,700

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 39 mm Calibre 5 (black dial, bracelet)

MovementTAG Heuer Calibre 5 automatic (Sellita/ETA base)
Case39 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width
Water resistance100 m
Crystal
Bezelfixed
Lumeluminescent hands and indexes
Case materialstainless steel
Price$3,700

TAG Heuer's three-hander in 39 mm, $3,700 on the bracelet at Mayors, an authorised retailer, because tagheuer.com/us served a bot-challenge shell even to a browser. 100 m, Calibre 5 automatic on a Sellita or ETA base, fixed bezel, luminescent hands and indexes, steel. The retailer page does not name the crystal, thickness, lug-to-lug or lug width, so the row is thin. The Tudor Royal 40 above is $25 less with an in-house COSC day-date and a stated 11.4 mm. The Longines Spirit 40 is $1,150 less with a certificate. The Carrera is the name on the dial; the case specs are the gap.

See it at TAG Heuer

Spec sheet: mayors.com, checked 19 September 2026. TAG Heuer brand page.

Nomos Metro 38 date
Photo: Nomos

Ø38.5 mm · hand wound · 50 m · $3,740

Nomos Metro 38 date

7.8 mm thick
38.5 × 45.3 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementDUW 4601 hand-wound, 52 h
Case38.5 mm
Lug to lug45.3 mm
Thickness7.8 mm
Lug width19 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystaldomed sapphire front and back
Bezelfixed
Case materialstainless steel
Price$3,740

The NOMOS to buy under the line if the Club Sport's 200 m is not the point: a 7.8 mm hand-wound case with a date, $3,740 on the US store. 38.5 mm, 45.3 mm lug-to-lug, 19 mm lugs, 50 m recorded from NOMOS's 5 atm, DUW 4601 with 52 hours, domed sapphire front and back, steel. It is 0.6 mm thinner than the Club Sport neomatik above and $400 less; the Club Sport has 200 m and the automatic. The Tangente neomatik 41 Update below is $1,130 more at the same 7.8 mm with an automatic and a ring date. Hand-winding is the trade.

See it at Nomos

Spec sheet: nomos-glashuette.com, checked 19 September 2026. Nomos brand page.

Fears Brunswick 38 'Charcoal Rose'
Photo: Fears

Ø38 mm · hand wound · 100 m · £2,875 · Priced in GBP by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Fears Brunswick 38 'Charcoal Rose'

11.84 mm thick
38 × 42 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLa Joux-Perret D100 hand-wound, TOP grade, 50h
Case38 mm
Lug to lug42 mm
Thickness11.84 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
CrystalSapphire, ARdur AR both sides
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel, polished and spun
Price£2,875 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

The hand-wound Brunswick, and at 42 mm the shortest lug-to-lug of any round case on the page: £3,450 including VAT, £2,875 excluding it on cordovan, £3,041.67 excluding VAT on the bracelet. 38 mm, 11.84 mm thick with the closed back and 11.69 mm open, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, La Joux-Perret D100 in TOP grade with 50 hours, sapphire with ARdur on both faces, 316L polished and spun, Heritage Brown cordovan lined in Alcantara. The Brunswick 40 above is £83.33 less on strap for the automatic, 50 m more and 4.5 mm more lug-to-lug. The Grand Seiko SBGW301 among the picks is 2.3 mm longer.

See it at Fears

Spec sheet: fearswatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Fears brand page.

Cartier Tank Must Large, quartz (steel, leather)
Photo: via retailer

Ø33.7 mm · quartz · 30 m · $3,900

Cartier Tank Must Large, quartz (steel, leather)

MovementCartier high-autonomy quartz
Case33.7 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness6.6 mm
Lug width
Water resistance30 m
Crystal
Bezelfixed
Case materialsteel
Price$3,900

The mechanical-quartz Tank Must Large, $3,900 at Mayors because cartier.com/en-us redirects the reference to a page that errors. 33.7 by 25.5 mm, 6.6 mm thick, 30 m, Cartier's high-autonomy quartz, steel, on leather; the case column carries the 33.7 mm length. Crystal, lug width and lume are not on the retailer page. The SolarBeat above is $500 more on cartier.com itself for the same case and thickness with a photovoltaic movement and a non-animal strap. The Grand Seiko SBGX261 above is $1,200 less for a quartz rated to 10 seconds a year and 100 m. The SolarBeat is the same shape with a price the maker will confirm.

See it at Cartier

Spec sheet: mayors.com, checked 19 September 2026. Cartier brand page.

Ø42 mm · hand wound · 50 m · $3,900

Zelos Mirage 2 Eight-Day Skeleton (2021)

13 mm thick
42 × 48 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLa Joux-Perret LJP7500 hand-wound skeleton, 3Hz, 33 jewels, 8-day
Case42 mm
Lug to lug48 mm
Thickness13 mm
Lug width
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire front and back, inner AR; sapphire dial
BezelFixed
LumeSuper-LumiNova BGW9 inserts
Case materialTitanium, Zirc/Ti Damascus, tantalum or sapphire
Price$3,900

An eight-day hand-wound skeleton in titanium for $3,900, on 2021 press figures from Monochrome, for a watch that is not in the current Zelos feed; the row is here because the data carries it. 42 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 13 mm thick, 50 m, La Joux-Perret LJP7500 at 3 Hz with 33 jewels, sapphire front, back and dial, BGW9 inserts. The Damascus and tantalum cases were $4,900 and the sapphire case $8,900, in runs of 25 or 50. The Furlan Marri Disco Volante above is $800 less for a hand-wound that is at least on the maker's site, retired. Treat this as a record, not an offer.

See it at Zelos

Spec sheet: monochrome-watches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Zelos brand page.

Ikepod Horopod HO01 Jodhpur
Photo: Ikepod

Ø44 mm · automatic · $3,990

Ikepod Horopod HO01 Jodhpur

44 × 44 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementNOS ETA 2824 automatic
Case44 mm
Lug to lug44 mm
Thickness
Lug width
Water resistance
CrystalNot stated
BezelFixed pebble case, no lugs
LumeNot stated
Case materialTitanium, Swiss Made
Price$3,990 (US price on the maker's site)

Marc Newson's 1994 pebble case, relaunched in 2018, ranked on its Swiss tier and marked down for the other one. The Horopod is a 44 mm lugless titanium case, listed as 44 mm lug-to-lug and described as wearing like 41 mm, on a new-old-stock ETA 2824, EUR 3,190 on the maker's site across six references; thickness, crystal and water resistance are not published. The Hemipod chronograph tops the range at EUR 5,900. Ikepod's own history page discloses two tiers: Horopod, Skypod and Hemipod in titanium with ETA calibres made in Switzerland, and the EUR 690 to 790 Chronopod, Duopod and Seapod assembled in Hong Kong on Miyota, Seiko VK63 and quartz movements. Warranty two years. Stock plus runs of 30 to 111.

See it at Ikepod

Spec sheet: ikepod.com, checked 19 September 2026. Ikepod brand page.

Sartory-Billard SB04-E Winter 2026 (edition)
Photo: Sartory-Billard

Ø39.5 mm · automatic · 100 m · €3,500 · Priced in EUR by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Sartory-Billard SB04-E Winter 2026 (edition)

MovementLa Joux-Perret automatic, 68h
Case39.5 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width
Water resistance100 m
CrystalNot stated
BezelFixed
LumeBGW9 Super-LumiNova numerals and hands
Case materialStainless steel, polished and brushed
Price€3,500 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

The way into the house from stock, EUR 3,500 on the steel bracelet and EUR 3,100 on rubber per the feed, limited to 26 as reference SB04E1WIN26. 39.5 mm, 100 m, polished and brushed steel, BGW9 Super-LumiNova, La Joux-Perret automatic with 68 hours; lug to lug and thickness are not published for the edition, though the bespoke SB04-E on the same case states 46 mm and 10.3 mm. Other feed editions ran EUR 3,500 to 5,000. Against the bespoke SB04-E at EUR 5,000 the saving is EUR 1,500 and the loss is the choice of dial. The Ikepod Horopod at €3,190 is the nearest euro-priced rival, 44 mm on a NOS ETA 2824.

See it at Sartory-Billard

Spec sheet: sartory-billard.com, checked 19 September 2026. Sartory-Billard brand page.

Ophion OPH 786 Vélos (Guilloché)
Photo: Ophion

Ø38.5 mm · hand wound · €3,620 · Priced in EUR by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Ophion OPH 786 Vélos (Guilloché)

MovementCustom caliber, Technotime/Soprod base, proprietary bridges, hand-hammered decoration, hand-wound
Case38.5 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness10.35 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance
CrystalDomed sapphire front, flat sapphire back
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel, hand-polished
Price€3,620 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

The hand-wound Ophion at EUR 3,620 with a CNC guilloché dial in salmon, silver or blue, or EUR 3,420 in Radial Blue, per the order page; alligator adds EUR 80. 38.5 mm with a 39 mm bezel, 10.35 mm thick, 20 mm lug, 316L steel hand-polished, domed sapphire front and flat back, on a custom calibre built on a Technotime/Soprod base with proprietary bridges and hand-hammered decoration. Lug to lug and water resistance are not published. Against the Vesper it is 0.5 mm smaller, 1.1 mm thinner and EUR 355 less, hand-wound against micro-rotor. The Furlan Marri Disco Volante at CHF 2,500 is the other hand-wound steel dress watch here under 39 mm, on a Peseux 7001 at 8.95 mm.

See it at Ophion

Spec sheet: ophion-watches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Ophion brand page.

Fears Brunswick 40 Copper Salmon (steel)
Photo: Fears

Ø40 mm · automatic · 150 m · £3,125 · Priced in GBP by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Fears Brunswick 40 Copper Salmon (steel)

MovementLJP G100 automatic, 68h reserve
Case40 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance150 m
Crystal
Case material316L stainless steel, brushed and polished cushion case
Price£3,125 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

The salmon-dial Brunswick 40, £3,125 excluding VAT on the bracelet and £2,958.33 on the strap from the Shopify feed, discontinued and in what Fears calls its Archive with very limited pieces remaining. 40 mm, 20 mm lugs, 150 m, La Joux-Perret G100 with 68 hours, brushed and polished 316L cushion case; the feed carries no lug-to-lug, thickness, crystal or lume for it, so read the Filton row above for the case. The Silver Noir variant is sterling silver on the hand-wound G121M at £3,625. Against the Filton on the bracelet, £166.67 more for the dial. The Archive listing is the maker's own word for a closing window.

See it at Fears

Spec sheet: fearswatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Fears brand page.

Cartier Tank Must Large, SolarBeat (steel, non-animal strap)
Photo: Cartier

Ø33.7 mm · quartz · 30 m · $4,400

Cartier Tank Must Large, SolarBeat (steel, non-animal strap)

MovementSolarBeat photovoltaic quartz
Case33.7 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness6.6 mm
Lug width
Water resistance30 m
Crystal
Bezelfixed
Case materialsteel
Price$4,400

The one quartz entry and the thinnest watch on the page at 6.6 mm, $4,400 on cartier.com/en-us. A 33.7 by 25.5 mm steel case, 30 m (3 bar), SolarBeat photovoltaic quartz, on a non-animal strap; the table's case column carries the 33.7 mm length. Cartier's page does not name the crystal. The US SolarBeat large is now reference WSTA0122; the WSTA0059 that older lists cite appears only on the UK and Swiss sites. The mechanical-quartz Tank Must Large is $3,900 at Mayors, an authorised retailer, because the cartier.com page for it errors: same case, same 6.6 mm, no solar cell. The Santos de Cartier Medium at $8,400 is the Cartier automatic, on the under-$10,000 list.

See it at Cartier

Spec sheet: cartier.com, checked 19 September 2026. Cartier brand page.

Ophion OPH 411 Vesper
Photo: Ophion

Ø39 mm · automatic · €3,975 · Priced in EUR by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Ophion OPH 411 Vesper

MovementSchwarz Etienne ASE 200 micro-rotor automatic, 3Hz, 86h, stop seconds
Case39 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness11.45 mm
Lug width22 mm
Water resistance
CrystalDomed sapphire front, flat sapphire back, ARDUR AR
BezelFixed, hand-polished
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel, hand-polished, welded teardrop lugs (Voutilainen-Cattin SA)
Price€3,975 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

Second for the Schwarz Etienne ASE 200 micro-rotor in the Vesper, 3 Hz, 86 hours, stop seconds, in a 39 mm hand-polished steel case 11.45 mm thick with welded teardrop lugs, and the Madrid brand's own pages cannot agree on what it costs. The order page showed EUR 3,975 on the check date; Monochrome quoted EUR 7,950 in 2023; the ranking takes the lower, current figure. The Vélos is EUR 3,420 to 3,620 on the order page while its spec page still shows EUR 1,890 to 2,190. Monochrome names Voutilainen-Cattin SA as the case maker and Estima AG for the dial; the brand's own pages state neither assembly nor a warranty, and publish no lug-to-lug or water resistance. Pre-order batches, with reservations between them.

See it at Ophion

Spec sheet: ophion-watches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Ophion brand page.

Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'China Blue'
Photo: Fears

Ø40.5 mm · automatic · 100 m · £3,542 · Priced in GBP by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'China Blue'

12.8 mm thick
40.5 × 47 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSellita SW200 + Christopher Ward JJ01 jump-hour module, 38h
Case40.5 mm
Lug to lug47 mm
Thickness12.8 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
CrystalSapphire, ARdur AR both sides
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel, polished and spun
Price£3,542 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

A jumping hour on a Christopher Ward module, and now in the Fears Archive: £3,541.67 excluding VAT on strap, £3,708.33 on the bracelet. 40.5 mm, 47 mm lug-to-lug, 12.8 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, a Sellita SW200 carrying Christopher Ward's JJ01 jump-hour module with 38 hours, sapphire with ARdur on both sides, 316L polished and spun, a silver barleycorn dial under blue lacquer. It is £750 more than the Filton on strap and 0.9 mm thicker, for the complication. The Formex Stratos UTC on the Formex page is the other jumping hour on this site. The 38-hour reserve and the archive status are the two things to weigh.

See it at Fears

Spec sheet: fearswatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Fears brand page.

Fears Arnos Pewter Blue
Photo: Fears

Ø22.6 mm · automatic · 30 m · £3,625 · Priced in GBP by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Fears Arnos Pewter Blue

8.4 mm thick
22.6 × 40 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSellita SW1000-1b automatic, 46h
Case22.6 mm
Lug to lug40 mm
Thickness8.4 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
CrystalSapphire, ARdur AR both sides
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel rectangular 22.6 x 33.5mm, Swiss-made case
Price£3,625 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

The rectangular Fears, £4,350 including VAT and £3,625 excluding it, and the most expensive Fears on the page. A 22.6 by 33.5 mm Swiss-made 316L case with a 40 mm lug-to-lug, 8.4 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 30 m, Sellita SW1000-1b automatic with 46 hours, sapphire with ARdur on both sides, a hobnail dial made in Germany, Barenia leather and an FKM rubber strap; the case column carries the 22.6 mm width. The Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat above is the other rectangle here, 1.8 mm thinner and quartz. The Brunswick 38 is £750 less excluding VAT for a round hand-wound Fears. The shape is what the money buys.

See it at Fears

Spec sheet: fearswatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Fears brand page.

Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update
Photo: Nomos

Ø40.5 mm · automatic · 50 m · $4,870

Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update

7.8 mm thick
40.5 × 49.3 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementDUW 6101 neomatik automatic with ring date
Case40.5 mm
Lug to lug49.3 mm
Thickness7.8 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystalsapphire with AR
Bezelfixed
LumeSuperluminova on date ring
Case materialstainless steel
Price$4,870

The largest NOMOS under the line and the longest, 49.3 mm lug-to-lug on a 40.5 mm case, at $4,870 on the product page; a search snippet showed $4,480 and the page is the authority. 7.8 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 50 m, DUW 6101 neomatik automatic with the ring date, sapphire with AR, Super-LumiNova on the date ring, steel. The Club Sport neomatik above is $730 less, 3.5 mm smaller, 1.6 mm shorter and rated to 200 m, also a neomatik. The Metro 38 date above is $1,130 less at the same 7.8 mm, hand-wound. The Tangente is the design; the 49.3 mm is the measurement to take first.

See it at Nomos

Spec sheet: nomos-glashuette.com, checked 19 September 2026. Nomos brand page.

Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic 41mm
Photo: Christopher Ward

Ø41 mm · automatic · $4,995

Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic 41mm

MovementCW FS01 (Sellita SW200-1 base with hourly sonnerie au passage module)
Case41 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width
Water resistance
Crystal
Case materialGrade 5 titanium
Price$4,995

The chiming watch, and $5 under the line on leather: $4,995 for the C1 Bel Canto Classic in Grade 5 titanium, $5,340 on the Bader bracelet and over. 41 mm, CW FS01 automatic, a Sellita SW200-1 base carrying Christopher Ward's hourly sonnerie au passage module. The listing page gave no thickness, lug-to-lug, water resistance or crystal. The original non-Classic Bel Canto launched at $3,595 per the brand; no current listing was found. The NOMOS Tangente 41 above is $125 less and prints every dimension; nothing else under $5,000 on this site strikes the hour. That is the entire case for it.

See it at Christopher Ward

Spec sheet: christopherward.com, checked 19 September 2026. Christopher Ward brand page.

Grand Seiko Elegance hand-wound SBGW301 (successor to SBGW231)
Photo: Grand Seiko

Ø37.3 mm · hand wound · $5,000

Grand Seiko Elegance hand-wound SBGW301 (successor to SBGW231)

11.7 mm thick
37.3 × 44.3 mm · ref 40 × 47
Movement9S64 manual-winding
Case37.3 mm
Lug to lug44.3 mm
Thickness11.7 mm
Lug width19 mm
Water resistance
Crystalbox-shaped sapphire, AR inside
Bezelfixed
Case materialstainless steel
Price$5,000

Exactly $5,000 on the US site, counted as in, and the successor to the SBGW231 most lists still recommend, whose page returns a 404. 37.3 mm, 44.3 mm lug-to-lug, 11.7 mm thick, 19 mm lugs, hand-wound 9S64, box-shaped sapphire with AR inside, steel. Grand Seiko states the water resistance as "splash resistant", which is a description rather than a number, so the WR cell is a dash. The King Seiko SJE109 below at $3,100 is 0.7 mm shorter lug-to-lug, 1.8 mm thinner and automatic; the SBGX261 quartz at $2,700 is the cheaper Grand Seiko, in the under-$2,500 list's notes. The $5,000 buys the hand-wound 9S64 and the Grand Seiko dial; it does not buy a rating you can write down.

See it at Grand Seiko

Spec sheet: grand-seiko.com, checked 19 September 2026. Grand Seiko brand page.

Over $5,000

anOrdain Model 3 Method (Aqua)
Photo: anOrdain

Ø39 mm · automatic · 50 m · $5,048

anOrdain Model 3 Method (Aqua)

10.45 mm thick
39 × 46 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSellita SW300 automatic
Case39 mm
Lug to lug46 mm
Thickness10.45 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire, three-layer AR
BezelFixed, polished
LumeNot stated
Case materialPolished 316L steel
Price$5,048 (US price on the maker's site)

The dial earns the place: vitreous enamel fired in the brand's own Glasgow factory by six enamellers among about 30 staff. The Model 3 Method is enamel on silver in a polished 39 mm case, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 10.45 mm thick, 50 m, on a Sellita SW300, GBP 3,695 plus VAT on the maker's site. The floor is the Model 1 at GBP 1,790 plus VAT, enamel on copper, on a Sellita SW210 hand-wound or La Joux-Perret G101 with an in-house decorated A1 option. Buying is a GBP 350 plus VAT build-slot reservation, with slots running to 2031 and a 9-month queue on porcelain, which is the longest published wait on this page. Warranty five years. Direct only. The Sellita is what the money does not go on.

See it at anOrdain

Spec sheet: anordain.com, checked 19 September 2026. anOrdain brand page.

Sartory-Billard SB04-E (bespoke)
Photo: Sartory-Billard

Ø39.5 mm · automatic · 100 m · €5,000 · Priced in EUR by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Sartory-Billard SB04-E (bespoke)

10.3 mm thick
39.5 × 46 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLa Joux-Perret G101ET automatic, 24 jewels, 4Hz, 68h, tungsten rotor
Case39.5 mm
Lug to lug46 mm
Thickness10.3 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
CrystalSapphire, AR
BezelFixed
LumeOptional BGW9 Super-LumiNova on hands
Case material316L steel
Price€5,000 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

The bespoke SB04-E from EUR 5,000, 50% deposit, about 4 months, and the model the house's configurator was built for: dial in titanium, guilloché or natural stone, open or closed back, leather, rubber or a bracelet on 20 mm curved lugs. 39.5 mm, 46 mm lug to lug, 10.3 mm thick, 100 m, 316L steel, sapphire with anti-reflective coating, optional BGW9 on the hands, on a La Joux-Perret G101ET, 24 jewels, 4 Hz, 68 hours, tungsten rotor. Against the Winter 2026 edition the EUR 1,500 buys the dial you drew. Against the SB07 at an average EUR 9,000 you keep EUR 4,000 and give up titanium and the integrated bracelet; the SB04-E is the one to commission first.

See it at Sartory-Billard

Spec sheet: sartory-billard.com, checked 19 September 2026. Sartory-Billard brand page.

Atelier Wen Ancestra 'Jiāo' Launch Edition
Photo: Atelier Wen

Ø38 mm · automatic · 100 m · $5,850

Atelier Wen Ancestra 'Jiāo' Launch Edition

11.3 mm thick
38 × 46 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementPequignet EPM03 automatic, heavily customised, 65h, ±2 s/d average
Case38 mm
Lug to lug46 mm
Thickness11.3 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
CrystalDouble-domed box sapphire, 5-layer AR; domed sapphire back
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material904L stainless steel, contrasting finishes
Price$5,850 (US price on the maker's site)

The dress watch, HKD 45,900, and the only current model under 40 mm: 38 mm, 46 mm lug to lug, 11.3 mm thick, 100 m, 904L steel, 20 mm lug, on hand-stitched Epsom or Zermatt leather. The dial is hand-hammered 925 silver under grand feu fumé enamel from Kong Lingjun's workshop, with Chinese calligraphy or Arabic numerals, on the same customised Pequignet EPM03 as the Perception v3, 65 hours, rated at plus or minus 2 seconds a day on average. Domed sapphire front and back; 9.05 mm without them. The launch-edition order window had closed at check. Against the Perception v3 the HKD 8,150 buys enamel over guilloché, 2 mm less case and 0.9 mm more thickness.

See it at Atelier Wen

Spec sheet: atelierwen.com, checked 19 September 2026. Atelier Wen brand page.

Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive 'Snowflake' SBGA211
Photo: Grand Seiko

Ø41 mm · spring drive · 100 m · $6,900

Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive 'Snowflake' SBGA211

12.5 mm thick
41 × 49 mm · ref 40 × 47
Movement9R65 Spring Drive, self-winding with manual winding
Case41 mm
Lug to lug49 mm
Thickness12.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystaldual-curved sapphire, AR inside
Bezelfixed
Case materialHigh-Intensity Titanium
Price$6,900

Spring Drive in titanium at $6,900 on grand-seiko.com/us-en, and the one Grand Seiko here that older lists still price correctly. 41 mm, 49 mm lug-to-lug, 12.5 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, 9R65 Spring Drive with self-winding and manual winding, dual-curved sapphire with AR inside, High-Intensity Titanium. Lume is not stated on the page. The mechanical alternative from the same maker is the Hi-Beat SBGH347 at $7,300 (37 mm, 44.6 mm, 13.3 mm, 19 mm lugs, 9S85 at 36,000 vph, Ever-Brilliant Steel), 4 mm smaller and 0.8 mm thicker. The Spring Drive GMT SBGE285 at $8,900 (41 mm, 48.3 mm, 13.9 mm, titanium, 9R66) adds the second zone for $2,000. The 49 mm lug-to-lug is the figure to check on 41 mm.

See it at Grand Seiko

Spec sheet: grand-seiko.com, checked 19 September 2026. Grand Seiko brand page.

Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH347
Photo: Grand Seiko

Ø37 mm · automatic · 100 m · $7,300

Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH347

13.3 mm thick
37 × 44.6 mm · ref 40 × 47
Movement9S85 Hi-Beat 36000 automatic (10 bps), ~55 h
Case37 mm
Lug to lug44.6 mm
Thickness13.3 mm
Lug width19 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystaldual-curved sapphire, AR inside
Bezelfixed
Case materialEver-Brilliant Steel
Price$7,300

The one 37 mm hi-beat on the site, and a better proportion than the 40 mm Grand Seikos for anyone under seven inches of wrist: 44.6 mm lug-to-lug, 13.3 mm thick, 100 m, the 9S85 running at ten beats a second, $7,300 on the US site. The thickness is the trade for the high beat and the ice-blue Mt Iwate dial is the reason people search for it. The Snowflake at $6,900 is the Spring Drive alternative for $400 less and 3 mm more case; the Explorer 36 at $7,900 is the Swiss one at the same size.

See it at Grand Seiko

Spec sheet: grand-seiko.com, checked 19 September 2026. Grand Seiko brand page.

Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer 40
Photo: Formex

Ø40 mm · automatic · 30 m · $7,900

Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer 40

6.9 mm thick
40 × 45.45 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementFX01 micro-rotor manufacture calibre (Horage), COSC certified, 72h reserve, 3.5Hz
Case40 mm
Lug to lug45.45 mm
Thickness6.9 mm
Lug width19 mm
Water resistance30 m
Crystalsapphire front and back, AR coated
Bezelfixed
Lumecustom Tritec Super-LumiNova
Case materialgrade 5 titanium, integrated bracelet
Price$7,900

The only microbrand under $10,000 in this site's data, and it is sold out: the Founder's Edition ran 100 numbered pieces across three dials. The FX01 is a micro-rotor manufacture calibre engineered by Horage, COSC, 72 hours at 3.5 Hz, in grade 5 titanium: 40 mm, 45.45 mm lug-to-lug, 6.9 mm thick, 19 mm lugs, 30 m, sapphire front and back with AR, integrated titanium bracelet with the brand's micro-adjust clasp, 78 g in total, custom Tritec Super-LumiNova, $7,900 in the store's dollar pricing (CHF 5,900). It is the thinnest watch on the page by 1.92 mm over the Cartier Santos. The Essence Ceramica at $3,690 is the Formex on the under-$5,000 list. The 30 m rating is the price of 6.9 mm.

See it at Formex

Spec sheet: formexwatch.com, checked 19 September 2026. Formex brand page.

Rolex Datejust 36 (silver dial, smooth bezel, Jubilee)
Photo: Rolex

Ø36 mm · automatic · 100 m · $8,350

Rolex Datejust 36 (silver dial, smooth bezel, Jubilee)

MovementRolex 3235, Superlative Chronometer, ~70 h
Case36 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width
Water resistance100 m
Crystalscratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops
Bezeldomed, Oystersteel
Case materialOystersteel
Price$8,350

$8,350 on rolex.com/en-us for the Datejust 36 with the silver dial, a smooth Oystersteel bezel and the Jubilee bracelet, reference 126200, the same price as the Explorer 40 above. 36 mm, 100 m, calibre 3235 with the Cyclops over the date, Superlative Chronometer, about 70 hours, sapphire. No thickness or lug-to-lug published. Against the Oyster Perpetual 36 at $6,750: $1,600 more for the date, the 3235 in place of the 3230, and the Jubilee; the sheet shows nothing else. Against the Cartier Santos at $8,400: $50 less, and Cartier the one that publishes a thickness (8.82 mm) and states no certificate.

See it at Rolex

Spec sheet: rolex.com, checked 19 September 2026. Rolex brand page.

Sartory-Billard SB05 (bespoke ultra-thin)
Photo: Sartory-Billard

Ø38.5 mm · hand wound · 50 m · €15,000 · Priced in EUR by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Sartory-Billard SB05 (bespoke ultra-thin)

8.5 mm thick
38.5 × 45.5 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLa Joux-Perret 7380 (SBM01) hand-wound, 2.9mm, 3Hz, 90h, 21 jewels, NAC finish
Case38.5 mm
Lug to lug45.5 mm
Thickness8.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalSapphire front and back, AR
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel, grade 5 titanium, or tantalum (POA)
Price€15,000 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

The thin one, EUR 15,000 to 30,000 and more excluding VAT, EUR 8,000 deposit, about 9 months, 50 a year: 38.5 mm, 45.5 mm lug to lug, 8.5 mm thick, 50 m, in 316L steel, grade 5 titanium or tantalum on application, sapphire front and back, on the La Joux-Perret 7380 as SBM01, hand-wound, 2.9 mm, 3 Hz, 90 hours, NAC finish, 20/18 mm quick-release lugs. Feed editions Sunflower at EUR 12,700 and Uchū at EUR 15,800 were sold out. Against the SB04-E it is 1 mm smaller, 1.8 mm thinner, hand-wound and 3 times the starting price. The Formex Aria at $7,900 is 6.9 mm on a micro-rotor with COSC, in titanium, from stock.

See it at Sartory-Billard

Spec sheet: sartory-billard.com, checked 19 September 2026. Sartory-Billard brand page.

Lundis Bleus Ref. 1125 (La Fée Verte / La Bleue)
Photo: Lundis Bleus

Ø40 mm · hand wound · 30 m · CHF 15,800 · Priced in CHF by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Lundis Bleus Ref. 1125 (La Fée Verte / La Bleue)

MovementLe Temps Manufacture LTM5000 hand-wound, 19 jewels, 60h, 4Hz
Case40 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness11.3 mm
Lug width19 mm
Water resistance30 m
CrystalBox-type sapphire, double-sided AR; flat sapphire back
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case materialStainless steel
PriceCHF 15,800 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

Enamel fired in the brand's own Neuchâtel workshop, 6 to 15 kiln passes a dial, on a supplier calibre: that is the whole of the case for seventh. The Ref. 1125 is two editions of 5, each with a solid white gold dial carrying grand feu enamel over hand guilloché, on a Le Temps Manufacture LTM5000 hand-wound, 4 Hz, 60 hours, in a 40 mm steel case 11.3 mm thick, 30 m, CHF 15,800 excluding taxes; lug-to-lug is not published. The core Ref. 1120 runs a Sellita SW300-1 Premium at CHF 3,500 to 12,000 depending on the dial, with cloisonné, hand engraving, miniature painting and stone as options, and its dimensions appear only in a diagram. Under 100 watches a year, ordered by email or through a few retailers. Warranty five years.

See it at Lundis Bleus

Spec sheet: lundis-bleus.com, checked 19 September 2026. Lundis Bleus brand page.

Fears Garrick
Photo: Fears

Ø42 mm · hand wound · 100 m · £17,500 · Priced in GBP by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Fears Garrick

10 mm thick
42 × 49 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementGarrick UT-G04 hand-wound, 19 jewels, 18,000 vph, 45h, free-sprung Trinity balance
Case42 mm
Lug to lug49 mm
Thickness10 mm
Lug width22 mm
Water resistance100 m
CrystalSapphire, ARdur AR both sides
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material904L steel, made and finished in Garrick's Norfolk workshop
Price£17,500 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

Ninth on a flagship built with Garrick and a core range on La Joux-Perret. The Fears Garrick runs a UT-G04 hand-wound at 18,000 vph, 45 hours, free-sprung Trinity balance, in a 904L case made and finished in Garrick's Norfolk workshop, 42 mm, 49 mm lug-to-lug, 10 mm thick, 100 m. GBP 17,500 excluding VAT (21,000 including), fewer than 5 a year, 2 build slots a year, orders delivering August 2027; the Brunswick Pt is GBP 21,000 excluding VAT. The core range runs La Joux-Perret G100 and D100 from GBP 2,458 ex VAT (Redcliff 39.5 Date). Fears says hand-built in Britain, and its spec sheets disclose case and caseback made in Hong Kong for the Brunswick and Redcliff and in Switzerland for the Arnos. Warranty two years.

See it at Fears

Spec sheet: fearswatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Fears brand page.

Fears Brunswick Pt
Photo: Fears

Ø38 mm · hand wound · 30 m · £21,000 · Priced in GBP by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Fears Brunswick Pt

MovementLa Joux-Perret D100 hand-wound
Case38 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
CrystalNot stated
BezelFixed, polished platinum
LumeNot stated
Case materialPlatinum 950, ~100g, London Assay Office hallmarks
Price£21,000 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

The platinum Brunswick at £21,000 with platinum indices or £23,500 diamond-set, listed unavailable and built to order in more than 6 months: 38 mm, 20 mm lug, 30 m, La Joux-Perret D100 hand-wound, a Platinum 950 case of about 100 g carrying London Assay Office hallmarks, on a handmade black Kevlar strap. Lug-to-lug, thickness and crystal are not stated on the maker's feed, which is why the table has blanks. The steel Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose runs the same D100 at £2,875, so £18,125 is the metal and the hallmarks. Nothing else in this site's data is cased in platinum. Confirm the dimensions with Fears before paying the deposit.

See it at Fears

Spec sheet: fearswatches.com, checked 19 September 2026. Fears brand page.

Sartory-Billard SB06 (flying tourbillon)
Photo: Sartory-Billard

Ø41 mm · hand wound · 50 m · €110,000 · Priced in EUR by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate

Sartory-Billard SB06 (flying tourbillon)

9.5 mm thick
41 × 47 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSBTV01 in-house flying tourbillon by Comblemine, 3Hz, 96h, 209 parts, 19 jewels
Case41 mm
Lug to lug47 mm
Thickness9.5 mm
Lug width21 mm
Water resistance50 m
CrystalDouble-domed sapphire front and back, AR
BezelFixed
LumeLuminova on moon symbol (SB06-24 only)
Case materialSteel, titanium, gold, platinum or tantalum
Price€110,000 on the maker's site (no US price shown)

First on the first criterion alone: the SBTV01 is a flying tourbillon made with Comblemine for Sartory-Billard, and nothing else on this page has a movement of its own at that level. 3 Hz, 96 hours of reserve, 209 parts, in a 41 mm case 47 mm lug-to-lug and 9.5 mm thick, 50 m, in steel, titanium, gold, platinum or tantalum. From EUR 110,000 excluding VAT, 24 a year, delivery from 8 months, on a non-refundable deposit. The rest of the range is bespoke on La Joux-Perret bases, from the EUR 3,500 SB04-E Winter 2026 edition through the SB04-E bespoke from EUR 5,000 to the SB05 ultra-thin at EUR 15,000. Finished and assembled in France; dials designed and finished in-house. The site does not state a warranty term, which is worth asking about before the deposit.

See it at Sartory-Billard

Spec sheet: sartory-billard.com, checked 19 September 2026. Sartory-Billard brand page.

No maker price on the check date

Habring² Erwin (jumping seconds)
Photo: Habring²

Ø38.5 mm · hand wound · 30 m · No maker price on the check date

Habring² Erwin (jumping seconds)

MovementHabring2 A11S hand-wound jumping (dead-beat) seconds, 4 Hz, 48h reserve, 30 mm x 5.7 mm
Case38.5 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness9 mm
Lug width
Water resistance30 m
Crystalspherical sapphire, sapphire caseback
Bezelfixed
Case materialstainless steel, three-part
Price

Habring² publishes no prices, which Austrian VAT law is cited for, so the Erwin sits on this site without a figure and is placed by what its maker does publish: a jumping deadbeat seconds on a movement the Habrings build themselves in Völkermarkt. It is the only watch in the data with that complication and the only one whose price you have to ask a dealer for. A US dealer article put it at $6,400; that is not the maker's number and is not printed as one. The nearest thing on the site by idea is the Nomos Tangente, hand-wound and in-house at $2,330, without the dead seconds.

See it at Habring²

Spec sheet: habring2.com, checked 19 September 2026. Habring² brand page.

Kurono Tokyo Bunkyo Tokyo (classic series)
Photo: Kurono Tokyo

Ø37 mm · automatic · 30 m · No maker price on the check date

Kurono Tokyo Bunkyo Tokyo (classic series)

Movementmechanical automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph, 40h reserve (caliber not named on page)
Case37 mm
Lug to lug
Thickness
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance30 m
Crystalsapphire
Bezelfixed
Case material316L high-polished stainless steel, solid caseback
Price

The classic-series Kurono, and the row with no price, because the brand page showed none on 19 September 2026, only Sold Out: 37 mm, 30 m, sapphire, 316L high-polished, 20 mm lug and 16 mm at the buckle, an automatic whose calibre the page does not name. The collection page lists the Seiji, Toki, Mori and Bunkyo Tokyo together, all sold out, and the all-products collection was empty. It is in the table so the range is complete; it is not something a buyer can act on. A 37 mm Japanese dress automatic that can be bought this month is Serica's 1174 Parade at $1,760, 35 mm and 8.2 mm on a COSC Soprod, which is Swiss, not Japanese.

See it at Kurono Tokyo

Spec sheet: kuronotokyo.com, checked 19 September 2026. Kurono Tokyo brand page.

Ming 37.06 Lightning (MING x J.N. Shapiro)
Photo: Ming

Ø38 mm · hand wound · 100 m · No maker price on the check date

Ming 37.06 Lightning (MING x J.N. Shapiro)

10.9 mm thick
38 × 44.5 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSellita for MING SW210.M1 hand-wound, ~42h
Case38 mm
Lug to lug44.5 mm
Thickness10.9 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
CrystalDomed sapphire front and rear, double-sided AR
BezelFixed
LumeSuper-LumiNova X1 hands; HyCeram indices inside top crystal
Case material316L steel, polished-brushed
Price

The collaboration with J.N. Shapiro of Los Angeles, and a row with no price because the archive page showed none on 20 September 2026, only the excluding-taxes suffix: a grade-2 titanium dial hand engine-turned by Shapiro and heat-coloured by Ming Thein, in the 38 mm steel case, 44.5 mm lug-to-lug, 10.9 mm thick, 100 m, domed sapphire front and rear with HyCeram indices inside the top crystal, on a Sellita SW210.M1 hand-wound with about 42 hours. Orders were paused with the waitlist open; delivery slots were filled through late 2027. Atelier Wen's Ancestra puts a hand-hammered silver and enamel dial on a Pequignet at $5,850, 38 mm and 11.3 mm, and shows the price.

See it at Ming

Spec sheet: ming.watch, checked 19 September 2026. Ming brand page.

Sartory-Billard SB10 Jumping Hour (bespoke)
Photo: Sartory-Billard

Ø39.5 mm · automatic · 80 m · No maker price on the check date

Sartory-Billard SB10 Jumping Hour (bespoke)

11.5 mm thick
39.5 × 44 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementLa Joux-Perret base with custom jumping-hour mechanism, ~2 days
Case39.5 mm
Lug to lug44 mm
Thickness11.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance80 m
CrystalSapphire discs for hour and minute display
BezelFixed, polished and brushed
LumeNot stated
Case materialStainless steel
Price

The bespoke jumping hour, with no price on its page, so it enters the table with a blank; the feed's sold-out editions ran EUR 3,800 (Disco Ball, Black Sapphire) to EUR 5,200 (250th Anniversary), with Meteorite between. 39.5 mm, 44 mm lug to lug, 11.5 mm thick, 80 m, 20 mm lug, steel, sapphire discs for the hour and minute displays, on a La Joux-Perret base with a custom jumping-hour mechanism and about 2 days of reserve. It is the shortest case in the range and the thickest; against the SB04-E at 46 mm the SB10 gives up 2 mm of length and 20 m of depth for the complication, which appears nowhere else in this data.

See it at Sartory-Billard

Spec sheet: sartory-billard.com, checked 19 September 2026. Sartory-Billard brand page.