Eighty-odd watches from 41 to 42.5 mm, the size where divers and pilots live. Lug-to-lug matters more here than anywhere: the range runs from 46.5 mm to over 50.
Checked 20 September 2026 · list prices on the maker's site that day unless marked street
Above 41 mm the case is usually earning its size: a rotating bezel, a 300 m rating, a chronograph module. The watches that wear well at this diameter are the ones with short lugs, and the data has several: the Halios Seaforth IV at 46.5 mm, the Formex Reef 42 at 47 mm. The ones that do not are honest about it too; San Martin's SN0126 is 50 mm lug-to-lug at 42 mm across.
Every watch in the data from 41 to 42.5 mm, by price.
The most watch per dollar in the bracket: $39.95 buys 100 m, a 10-year battery and world time for 31 zones. 42.1 mm across, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 12.5 mm thick, 39 g, resin case and crystal, amber LED backlight. It was showing notify-me on casio.com on the check date. The F91W at $29.95 is the alternative for $10 less, with a 7-year battery and no metre rating; the DW5600E at $99.95 is the next step up, with shock resistance and 200 m. The trade is a resin crystal, which scratches, and a case 6.9 mm wider than the F91W's.
This is the mechanical watch to buy under $200: one of two in this data, and the cheaper by $7. San Martin lists it at $188 in two versions, an NH35 automatic at 11.3 mm thick or an ST3621 hand-wound at 9.8 mm. Case 41 mm, lug-to-lug 50 mm, 100 m, sapphire, C3 lume, on a 22 mm quick-release leather strap that tapers to 18 mm. The same money buys the Vaer S5 at $189, quartz, with a second strap. The bronze takes a patina, which is the reason to choose it over steel. The trade: 50 mm lug-to-lug is long for a 41 mm case, and the price moves with promotions, so the figure is a snapshot.
The Islander for the larger wrist, and the day-date pilot to buy at $249. Type-B dial on a Seiko NH36 automatic, 42 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 12 mm thick, 100 m, sapphire with anti-reflective coating, C3 Super-LumiNova, 22 mm leather strap with a signed buckle. The ISL-14 black and the ISL-16 and ISL-17 blue dials were in stock on the check date; DLC versions are $279. At 48 mm lug-to-lug it is 0.5 mm shorter than the 39 mm Mitchel and 3 mm wider, so the two cover the larger and the smaller wrist at the same price. The trade against the San Martin 6200 at $275 is 100 m and a strap in place of a bracelet.
The 42 mm solar diver at $299, assembled in Hong Kong, and the cheapest 200 m Vaer: 48 mm lug-to-lug, 11.6 mm thick, Epson solar quartz, so a charge from daylight and no battery service. The D4 at $429 is the US-assembled 39 mm version of the same idea, $130 more and 2 mm shorter; the $130 is the assembly site and the size. At this money the San Martin 6200 at $275 is the mechanical alternative, on an NH35 with a bracelet, at 38 mm. Buy the DS4 for the solar movement and the 42 mm; buy the D4 if 48 mm is too long.
The longest Islander at 50 mm lug to lug, which wants a wider wrist than anything else the brand sells, and out of stock in all 4 dials at check. $345, 42.4 mm across, 14.2 mm thick, 200 m, single-domed sapphire, a 120-click bezel with a lumed ceramic insert, on a 20-18 mm bracelet with a 6-position milled clasp. The page does not name the movement in its description. The alternative for $4 more is the 42 mm ISL-94 at $349, 3 mm shorter, 1.2 mm thinner, and in stock. The trade is the length, and a movement the page will not name.
$349 buys the diver with a US retailer behind it and spare parts on a shelf. Long Island Watch's house brand built this 42 mm on the footprint of the discontinued Seiko SKX with the crown at 3: 47 mm lug-to-lug, 13 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Seiko NH36 day-date, 200 m, double-domed sapphire with inner AR, a 120-click bezel, drilled lugs, on a bracelet. One-year warranty; assembly not stated for the automatics. For $74 less the San Martin is the smaller watch at 38 mm; for the same $349 nothing else here has a day-date. The 38 mm at $329 has the shortest lug-to-lug in the range at 44.5 mm and the Northport at $449 moves to a Miyota 9015; the Islander guide lists them.
The reference, still on the line at $350 on seikousa.com, where it was marked sold out on the check date (Long Island Watch: $280, also sold out). Seiko 4R36 with day and date, 42.5 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 13.4 mm thick, 100 m, Hardlex, LumiBrite, unidirectional bezel, 22 mm lugs. It is not an ISO diver: 100 m and a non-screw-down crown. The 46 mm lug-to-lug on a 42.5 mm case is the SKX geometry, and why it fits wrists its diameter says it should not. The alternative for the money is the Islander Bayport at $349, sapphire and 200 m on the same movement architecture; the Seiko's trade is Hardlex, and what the extra dollar buys is the name.
Bezelbi-directional 24-hour bezel (ceramic, steel or sapphire by variant); 24-hour rehaut
LumeC3 / BGW9 by variant
Case materialstainless steel (grade not stated)
Price$369
$369 buys the deepest-rated GMT on the list, an NH34 in Long Island Watch's 42 mm SKX-platform diver case: 14 mm thick, 200 m, double-domed sapphire, a bidirectional 24-hour bezel (ceramic, steel or sapphire by variant) plus a 24-hour rehaut, a bracelet tapering 22 to 18 mm. The page gives no lug-to-lug. Two colourways were in stock on the check date. It is a caller; Islander does not say where its automatics are assembled, and the warranty is one year. For $76 more the Spinnaker is 39 mm and 47 mm lug-to-lug on the same movement, with 50 m less. The brand's true GMT, the Republic Traveler, is four entries down at $595; the JFK ($449) and Melville ($379) are further NH34 callers in the Islander guide.
The compressor-style Spinnaker, with an internal bidirectional bezel under the crystal rather than a ring outside it: 42 mm, 50 mm lug-to-lug, 14 mm thick, Miyota 8215, 180 m, sapphire with AR, Super-LumiNova, 20 mm lugs. The 2026 fumé and guilloché dials (SP-5062-AA to DD and -99) list at $370; the older Ink Black is $285 and the Olive $209 on the same site. The 8215 does not hack, which at $370 a buyer may mind and at $209 will not. The Bradner GMT at $490 is this case 1 mm thicker with an NH34 inside. The Seiko 5 Sports SRPD55 at $350 is 42.5 mm on a 46 mm lug-to-lug, 4 mm shorter, with Hardlex in place of sapphire.
An Original Design diver at $371 in 2 sizes, and the size is the decision: the 42 mm SN0126GL in the table is 50 mm lug-to-lug, 13.6 mm thick with 21 mm lugs; the 38 mm SN0126GS on the same page is 46.5 mm, 11.7 mm and 20 mm. Miyota 90S5, the no-date 9015, 200 m, sapphire, a 120-click ceramic bezel, BGW-X1 lume, on a brushed 316L bracelet with an on-the-fly clasp. The 42 mm shares the bronze pilot's 50 mm length. The 38 mm matches the 62mas footprint for $65 more, and the $65 buys the brand's own design and a Miyota in place of a Sea-Gull. A wrist under 7 inches takes the 38.
Timex Expedition Field Post Titanium Automatic 41 (ex 'Expedition North Titanium Automatic')
41 × 50 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementJapanese automatic, 21 jewels (caliber not named)
Case41 mm
Lug to lug50 mm
Thickness13.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance200 m
Crystalsapphire, AR
Bezelfixed
LumeSuper-LumiNova
Case materialtitanium (black IP, brushed)
Price$429 list, about $419 street
The titanium automatic to buy at $429 if 50 mm lug-to-lug fits, and it is long for a 41 mm case. Renamed from Expedition North; the old URL is a 404. Titanium with a brushed black IP finish, 41 mm, 13.5 mm thick, 200 m, sapphire with anti-reflective coating, Super-LumiNova, 20 mm lugs, on leather (TW2Y90900). The fabric-strap sibling TW2V95300 is $419 and 12.5 mm thick, a timex.com exclusive. Timex calls the movement a Japanese automatic with 21 jewels and does not name it. It is the only Timex in the data that publishes a lug-to-lug. The same money buys the Vaer D4, solar, 4 mm shorter across the lugs and stated as USA assembled.
The Type B pilot, €390 including German VAT on laco.de, and the cheaper way into a Laco by exactly nothing, because the Augsburg below is the same price with a Type A dial. Laco 2S automatic, 42 mm, 50 mm lug-to-lug, 11.75 mm thick, 50 m, sapphire, 20 mm lugs; the Sellita-based Laco 31 is €55 more, anti-reflective coating €50. The Islander Aviator at $249 on the under-$300 list is the Type B alternative in dollars, on the NH36. The Laco's trade is 50 m and a 50 mm lug-to-lug; the return is the maker's own name on a pilot watch rather than an homage to one.
The Type A dial, and the one to choose of the two Lacos if hour numerals matter more than an inner hour ring. €390 including VAT on laco.de, no US price shown. Laco 2S automatic, 42 mm, 50 mm lug-to-lug, 11.75 mm thick, 50 m, sapphire, Super-LumiNova C3, 20 mm lugs; the Laco 31 on a Sellita base is €55 more. The San Martin bronze pilot at $188 on the under-$200 list is the Type A alternative in dollars, 41 mm with 100 m. The Augsburg's trade is 50 m for a 50 mm case length; what it buys is a German pilot watch at the maker's own price.
Bezelbi-directional, sapphire insert (Pepsi on ISL-206)
LumeC3 Super-LumiNova, BGW9 on GMT hand
Case materialstainless steel (grade not stated)
Price$449
The GMT to buy at $449 if the bezel insert should be sapphire: Seiko NH34, a bidirectional bezel with a sapphire insert, domed sapphire crystal, 200 m, 20 mm lugs, a female-endlink bracelet tapering 20 to 16 mm, C3 lume with BGW9 on the GMT hand. Lug to lug and thickness are not in the page text. In stock at check: ISL-206 White Cloud, ISL-337 Cherry Blossom, ISL-338 Batman, ISL-356 Sunset Orange; ISL-208 Grey Cloud was out. The alternative for $80 less is the GMT Dive on the same NH34, with 22 mm lugs and a ceramic, steel or sapphire insert by variant. The trade is $80 for the insert and the narrower lug.
A $285 watch on the day and a $465 one by this site's rule. Orient USA shows $465 compare-at with $285 selling, in stock on the check date; Long Island Watch matched $285, sold out. Orient F69-family automatic with day and date, 41.5 mm, 13 mm thick, 200 m, mineral crystal, 120-click bezel, 22 mm lugs; no credible lug-to-lug is published. At the selling price it undercuts every 200 m automatic on the main list; at list the SRPD55 at $350 is $115 less. The trade is mineral glass, and the Ray II below is the same watch under a different dial.
The Mako II with round markers in place of numerals, and $5 more on Orient USA's sale: $290 selling, $465 compare-at, in stock on the check date. Orient F69 automatic, 41.5 mm, 13 mm thick, 200 m, hardened mineral crystal, 120-click unidirectional bezel, 22 mm lugs; no lug-to-lug published. Long Island Watch had only scratch-and-dent listings with no price shown. Choose between the two Orients on the dial, because the sheet is identical. The Islander Bayport at $349 is the alternative on list, sapphire and 200 m on the NH35; the Ray's trade is the crystal, and its argument is a selling price $59 under the Islander.
The thickest Spinnaker at 15 mm, on the Bradner case's 50 mm lug-to-lug: 42 mm, Seiko NH34 caller GMT, 180 m, internal bidirectional bezel, sapphire with AR, Swiss Newlite lume, 20 mm lugs, $490, an extra rubber strap in the box. Against the Croft 39 GMT it is the same movement in a 3 mm bigger, 2 mm thicker case with an internal bezel, for $45 more at list and $134 more against the Croft's selling price. The Islander Automatic GMT at $369 is the same NH34 at 42 mm and 14 mm, 200 m; the Spinnaker gives the compressor look and 20 m less. On a wrist under 7 inches the Croft 39 is the one.
The only mechanical GMT from a major brand under $500 in this data, and $145 over the SRPD55 for a GMT movement and a two-colour bezel in the same case. Seiko 4R34, a caller GMT (the 24-hour hand sets independently; the local hour does not jump), 42.5 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 13.6 mm thick, 100 m, Hardlex, LumiBrite, a bi-directional 24-hour bezel in black and grey, 22 mm lugs, $495 on seikousa.com. Long Island Watch showed $396, sold out. The sapphire alternatives on the same architecture are the Islander JFK GMT at $449 and the Spinnaker Croft 39 GMT at $445 list, both on the Seiko NH34, the 4R34's unbranded equivalent. The Seiko's trade is Hardlex.
The SSK001 in blue and red at the same $495 on seikowatches.com, and the reason to pick it over the black is the bezel colour and nothing else. Seiko 4R34 caller GMT, 42.5 mm, 13.6 mm thick, 100 m, Hardlex with a date magnifier, LumiBrite, 22 mm lugs, a bi-directional two-colour 24-hour bezel. Seiko publishes no lug-to-lug here; the SSK001 entry above gives 46 mm for the same case. The Islander JFK GMT at $449 is the sapphire alternative on the NH34 for $46 less. The trade is Hardlex, as with every Seiko 5 here, and the second Seiko GMT is the one-per-family rule giving way.
Case materialCeraShell (bio-sourced plastic + ceramic powder)
Price$550
The Marathon to buy if the tritium matters more than the movement: $550, 41 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 11.5 mm thick, on an ETA F06.105 quartz. The case is CeraShell, a bio-sourced plastic loaded with ceramic powder, and the bezel is a bidirectional 12-hour aluminium ring, so it tracks a second time zone the way no other Marathon here does. Water resistance is 60 m, enough for rain and a wash, not for the pool. Unimatic's UT4 is the quartz alternative at $515 with 300 m and a steel case, 1 mm longer and without tritium. The Navigator's argument is the tubes and the material; the trade is the 60 m.
The most repeated pick on the incumbent under-$500 lists (five of eight), quoted there at $201 to $280, and by this site's rule a $580 watch that happens to be on sale. Orient USA's own store shows $580 compare-at with $375 as the selling price, and Long Island Watch matches $375 (sold out on the check date). 42 mm (Orient's page says 41.88 mm), 46.5 mm lug-to-lug and 13 mm thick per the retailer, Orient F6922 day-date automatic, 200 m, sapphire, 120-click bezel. It is the only day-date diver on the list. At $375 it undercuts everything here; at $580 list the Seiko King Turtle at $650 is the alternative, ISO-rated 200 m with a ceramic insert, $70 more.
A true GMT with 200 m at $599 on the Miyota 9075, and not in Lorier's current catalogue: the product URL returns a 404. 41 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 12.2 mm thick, domed Hesalite, BGW9 and C1 Super-LumiNova, a rotating dive bezel, 20 mm lugs, on a bracelet; the price and specs are from a 2023 review. True GMT means the local hour jumps independently, where the Seiko 4R34 on the main list is a caller movement whose 24-hour hand sets instead. The Neptune at $699 is the Lorier that can be ordered, with sapphire and no GMT. The Hydra's trade is acrylic and availability.
The Boldr field watch with the compass, in stock in this 1 colourway on the check date with every other Expedition I and II sold out: 41 mm per the reference, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 14 mm thick, 200 m, Sellita SW200-1, an internal bidirectional compass bezel, double-domed sapphire with AR, a full-lume matte dial, 20 mm lugs, $699. The Vaer A5 at $599 is 40 mm, 48 mm and 10.4 mm on a Miyota 9015 at 100 m; the Formex Field at $975 is 40 mm, 46.6 mm and 10.6 mm on a Sellita at 150 m. The Expedition is the 200 m one and the thick one, and there is no GMT version.
The RZE with the movement that justifies the money, sold out at check: $699 (or $719 with a pouch), 41 mm, 47 mm lug-to-lug, 12 mm thick, 100 m, Miyota 9075 true GMT, sapphire with inner Super-AR, BGW9 sandwich dial, UltraHex titanium on a titanium bracelet with the QUIKCLIQ deployant. A true GMT jumps the local hour and holds home time on the 24-hour hand; the GMT list explains why that costs more than a caller. Islander's Republic Traveler at $595 runs the same 9075 in steel with 200 m; Lorier's Hyperion at $799 is 39 mm by 46 mm and 10.7 mm. The RZE is the titanium one and, at check, the one you cannot buy.
Halios Seaforth IV Titanium (rotating bezel, elapsed-time or 12-hour)
41 × 46.5 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSellita SW200-2 automatic (no-date), 65h power reserve per brand
Case41 mm
Lug to lug46.5 mm
Thickness12.4 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance200 m
Crystalsapphire, double-domed, AR coated
Bezelunidirectional 120-click rotating, sapphire insert with luminous markings; elapsed-time or 12-hour scale
LumeGlobolight XP dial markers; Super-LumiNova C3 X1 (blue)
Case materialtitanium
Price$805
$805 buys the only Swiss-movement titanium diver on the list, if the batch is open, and on the check date it was not. 41 mm, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 12.4 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Sellita SW200-2 no-date with a stated 65-hour reserve, 200 m, double-domed sapphire, a 120-click bezel with a sapphire insert in an elapsed-time or 12-hour scale, $805 on rubber or $970 with the titanium bracelet. The 40 mm fixed-bezel version is $765. Halios sells in batches and assembles in Vancouver; the December and January batch was closed with delivery estimated for late December 2026 or early January 2027. For $6 less the Boldr is Swiss too, 500 m and 5.5 mm longer. The Halios guide explains the ordering cycle.
Price$840 (maker's on-page estimate, billed in euros)
The only Baltic rated past 200 m, and at €730 the one to buy if the rating matters more than the diameter. 41 mm across, 47 mm lug to lug, 13.3 mm thick, 300 m, Miyota 9039, unidirectional 120-click brushed ceramic bezel, Super-LumiNova BGW9, in Blue or Black on FKM rubber Sport; the brand states 55 g for the case and no grade. It is the widest case in the range by 1.5 mm, yet at 47 mm lug to lug it is no longer than the 39 mm steel divers. The alternative for €100 less is the MK2 39.5 mm at 200 m in steel. The trade is 100 m against 1.5 mm of case.
The same $845 as the Khaki Field Auto 38 in the main list, and the number that separates them is 53 mm, the lug-to-lug, 6 mm longer than the 38's. 42 mm, 11 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, H-10 with an 80-hour reserve, 100 m, sapphire, on the bracelet; a discounter had it at $628. At 53 mm it is longer than the 45 mm Seiko King Turtle's 47.7 mm on a case 3 mm smaller, which is what straight lugs do. The 38 is the one to buy unless the wrist is large; the 42's trade is 6 mm of length for nothing else on the sheet.
Case materialNot stated (second-generation thinner case)
Price$875 (US price on the maker's site)
The cheapest Ikepod at €690 on the maker's site, quartz, in a 42 mm lugless pebble that the listing says appears as 39 mm, with luminous hands and a second-generation case described as thinner without a figure. Case material, crystal and water resistance are not stated. The Tom Christopher edition is €890 in 111 pieces. For a quartz at this money Autodromo's Group C is $450 at 38.5 mm, 40 mm lug-to-lug and 11.4 mm in anodised aluminium with 50 m, and Brew's Metric Lite is $375 on a Miyota 6T27 automatic. The Duopod is €690 for Newson's shape and a battery, with three blanks on the sheet; the shape is the whole purchase.
The 62MAS to buy at $900, now that the bracelet one has gone from the US sites. 41 mm, 46.9 mm lug-to-lug, 12.3 mm thick, Seiko 6R35 with a 70-hour reserve, 200 m, curved sapphire, on a silicone strap. The SPB143 at 40.5 mm is the reference most lists mean; its page returned a 404 on both seikowatches.com us-en and seikousa.com on the check date, as did the SPB221 and SPB117, so it carries no price here. The Seiko for less is the King Turtle SRPE03 at $650 on the under-$1,000 list: 0.8 mm longer lug to lug on a case 4 mm larger, on the 4R36. The $900 buys the slimmer case and the 70 hours; it does not buy a bracelet.
The cheaper Mido, $90 under the Powerwind in the main list, and the one with the pool rating: 100 m against 50 m. 42 mm, 11 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, Caliber 80 with a Nivachron spring and an 80-hour reserve, sapphire with double AR, on the bracelet, $1,090. No lug-to-lug is published. It is 2 mm larger and 1.1 mm thinner than the Powerwind, and gives up the day-date. The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 42 at $845 on the under-$1,000 list is the alternative with the same 80 hours and a published 53 mm lug-to-lug; the Mido's trade is $245 for the anti-magnetic spring and the blank column.
$250 over the Khaki Field Auto 42 for the same case, the same H-10 and a seconds hand with EUREKA on it in Morse. 42 mm, 53 mm lug-to-lug, 11 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 80-hour reserve, 100 m, sapphire, $1,095 on leather; a discounter had it at $889. Unlike the 38 mm Murph on the under-$1,000 list, this one has a published lug-to-lug, and 53 mm is the longest on this page. The Auto 42 at $845 is the alternative and the same watch on the sheet; the Murph's trade is $250 for the dial and a strap in place of the bracelet.
The pilot's Hamilton at $1,125, on the H-40 rather than the H-10, which adds the day to the date and keeps the 80 hours. 42 mm, 11.85 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, sapphire with AR, $1,125 on hamiltonwatch.com and $899 at a discounter. No lug-to-lug is published and the page states no lume, so the table carries a dash where the Murph 42 carries 53 mm. Against the Mido Multifort M at $1,090 it is 0.85 mm thicker with a day-date the Mido lacks. The Murph 42 at $1,095 is the alternative; the Pilot's trade is the missing figure on a 42 mm case.
$350 over the steel Khaki Field Auto 42 for titanium, and the same everything else: H-10, 80 hours, 100 m, sapphire. 42 mm, 11.45 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, on leather, $1,195; the black PVD bracelet reference showed no price on the US page. Hamilton publishes no lug-to-lug for the titanium where it publishes 53 mm for the steel, so a lighter case comes with a blank column. The Formex Field at $975 on the under-$1,000 list is the titanium alternative: hard-coated to 900 HV, a Sellita, 150 m, 46.6 mm lug-to-lug, Swiss assembled, $220 less. The Hamilton's trade is the name against a maker that publishes the numbers.
MovementLa Joux-Perret G101 automatic, 68h power reserve
Case41 mm
Lug to lug47 mm
Thickness11.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance200 m
Crystalflat-top sapphire, domed underside, blue AR
Bezelfixed steel
LumeSwiss Super-LumiNova BGW9 Grade A
Case material316L steel
Price$1,199
Not in Nodus's catalogue, a 2023 collaboration of 100 pieces per colour, and in the data because $1,199 bought the La Joux-Perret G101 the Farer Resolute III carries at $1,220. 41 mm, 47 mm lug-to-lug, 11.5 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 68-hour reserve, 200 m, flat-top sapphire, BGW9, on a bracelet tapering 20 to 16 mm. The figures are a magazine's from December 2023, not a product page. Against the Resolute III it is 2 mm larger, 2 mm longer, 0.3 mm thinner and 100 m deeper, for $21 less. The Farer is the alternative you can order; the Canyon's trade is that the edition closed.
MovementSwiss automatic (calibre not named on page)
Case42 mm
Lug to lug46 mm
Thickness13.8 mm
Lug width19 mm
Water resistance200 m
Crystalsapphire, AR
Bezelunidirectional
LumeSuper-LumiNova
Case material316L stainless steel
Price$1,290
The entry Doxa at $1,290, sold with a movement Doxa declines to name: the page says Swiss automatic, so the table says that and nothing more. 42 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 13.8 mm thick, 19 mm lugs, 200 m, sapphire with AR, unidirectional bezel, Super-LumiNova, on the steel bracelet, or $1,250 on rubber. The lug-to-lug is the useful figure: 46 mm on a 42 mm case, shorter than the Seiko SPB317's 46.9 mm on 41 mm. For the same $1,290 the Serica 6190 below names its calibre and certifies it; the Doxa has the bezel and the case. The SUB 300T at $2,190 (42.5 mm, 13.65 mm, 1,200 m, no lug-to-lug published) is the next Doxa up, in the notes of the under-$2,500 list.
The same $1,320 as the 40 mm and the one Christopher Ward had in stock on the check date. 42 mm, 49.3 mm lug-to-lug, 11.5 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, Sellita SW200-1, 300 m, sapphire with AR, the 120-click ceramic bezel, Grade X1 lume, on the bracelet. The same money buys 2 mm of diameter, 1.85 mm of length and 0.2 mm of thickness over the 40, and costs a 22 mm lug on a wrist that may want 20. It is 1.7 mm shorter than the Orient Star on a case 1.6 mm smaller. The 40 mm is the alternative; the 42's trade is size for stock.
MovementCaliber 80 (ETA C07 base) automatic, Nivachron, 80h reserve
Case42.5 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness12.3 mm
Lug width22 mm
Water resistance200 m
Crystalsapphire, double AR
Bezelunidirectional, ceramic insert
Lumewhite Super-LumiNova on indexes
Case material316L steel
Price$1,360
$1,360 buys a ceramic bezel insert and a Nivachron balance spring on an 80-hour Caliber 80; it does not buy a published lug-to-lug or more than 200 m. 42.5 mm, 12.3 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, ETA C07 base, sapphire with double AR, unidirectional bezel, white Super-LumiNova on the indexes, on the bracelet. Other 200C variants ran $1,250 to $1,410 by a search snippet and were not fetched. The Tissot Seastar 1000 at $875 on the under-$1,000 list has the same 80-hour architecture at 300 m in a 40 mm case; the Mido is 2.5 mm larger, rated 100 m shallower and $485 more, and the ceramic is what the $485 buys. The Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 has left the US collection.
The diver, and at $1,370 (£1,250) the only Farer rated past 200 m. 41.5 mm grade 2 titanium, 45 mm lug to lug, 12.5 mm thick, 300 m, an internal unidirectional bezel driven by twin compressor crowns, La Joux-Perret G101, a 2.2 mm double-domed sapphire in front and 1.6 mm of sapphire behind, on natural rubber with a titanium buckle. Sold out at check, though the Hecla Hunter Green at the same price was in stock. The alternative on the same movement is the Resolute at $150 less, in steel at 100 m. The trade is the bracelet: titanium, and £245 extra.
Ø42 mm · automatic · 500 m · CHF 1,178 · Priced in CHF by the maker; placed at the 19 September rate
Squale 1521 Classic (rubber)
42 × 48 mm · ref 40 × 47
MovementSellita SW200-1 automatic, 38h
Case42 mm
Lug to lug48 mm
Thickness12.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance500 m
Crystalsapphire, flat, AR
Bezelunidirectional
LumeSuper-LumiNova C3
Case materialsteel 316L
PriceCHF 1,178 on the maker's site (no US price shown)
CHF 1,178 on squale.ch, placed under $1,500 at 19 September's rate, which is why it is here. 42 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 12.5 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Sellita SW200-1 with a 38-hour reserve, 500 m, flat sapphire with AR, a unidirectional bezel, on rubber. The 500 m is the deepest rating on the page short of the Tissot Seastar 2000's 600 m, in a case 4 mm smaller and 3.75 mm thinner. The Seastar 2000 at $1,275 is the dollar alternative; the Doxa SUB 200 at $1,290 has the shorter lug-to-lug. The Squale's trade is the currency, 38 hours and 100 m.
The in-house GMT at $1,549 list, shown at $929 with low stock, and at either figure the cheapest GMT here on a calibre its maker names as its own: 41 mm per the reference (the spec block says 40), 11.5 mm thick, 300 m, YEMA3000 automatic GMT with a 42-hour reserve, unidirectional 24-hour aluminium bezel, 2.6 mm double-domed sapphire, BGW9, 20 mm lugs. No lug-to-lug. Under $1,000 shown, the Traska Venturer at $950 and the Vaer G5 at $989 are Miyota 9075 true GMTs at 46.1 and 45.83 mm lug-to-lug; at $1,549 list the Farer Lander IV at $1,575 is a Sellita SW330-2. The Yema is the 300 m one.
Crystalsapphire, AR both sides, sapphire display back
Bezelbidirectional pilot bezel with minute ratcheting, lumed key mark
LumeSuper-LumiNova (not named in snippet)
Case materialsteel, polished
Price$1,860
The same caveat as the 556 I: every figure is a search snippet of two sites that blocked every fetch. $1,860 on strap and $2,280 on the bracelet, 41 mm, 11.9 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 200 m, Sellita SW220-1 day-date, sapphire with AR on both sides and a display back, a bidirectional pilot bezel that ratchets by the minute. No lug-to-lug is held. The Farer Barnwell at $1,525 is the pilot with a read page, titanium, 100 m and a 43 mm lug-to-lug, for $335 less. The Sinn has the bezel and the 200 m; the Farer has a spec sheet this site has seen.
Biel-assembled and COSC-certified at $1,890, with the brand's Case Suspension System; the certificate sits on a Sellita SW200-2 Power+ rather than a Soprod. 41 mm, 46.5 mm lug-to-lug, 10.6 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 100 m, sapphire front and back, Super-LumiNova BGW9, steel bracelet with quick release, in the store's dollar pricing (CHF 1,400 to 1,500; $1,690 to $1,890 by strap per the store API). Designed, developed and assembled at the Biel headquarters per the brand. The Essence 39 is $1,850 to $1,980 (45.5 mm lug-to-lug, 10 mm, 65-hour reserve) and was on pre-order; the Essence Leggera 41 in a 40 g carbon composite case is $1,995, mostly out of stock; the Essence 43 has left the catalogue. The Serica 5303 at $1,850 is the certified watch with 300 m; the Formex is the certified watch with the suspension and 100 m.
Case materialproprietary carbon fibre composite, 40g case
Price$1,995
Buy the Leggera for the 40 g case or not at all: against the steel Essence 41 the $105 buys the carbon fibre composite and costs 0.4 mm of thickness. $1,995 (CHF 1,780), with Forged Carbon at CHF 1,950 and meteorite dials at CHF 2,150. 41 mm, 46.4 mm lug to lug, 11 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 100 m, Sellita SW200-2 Power+ COSC, Case Suspension System stated, on NATO, calf leather or rubber with a carbon composite folding clasp; no bracelet is offered. Most colourways were out of stock at check. The alternative is the steel Essence 41 on its bracelet at $1,890. The trade is a bracelet you cannot have, and stock you may not find.
Exactly $2,000 on the bracelet, counted as in, and the least documented watch on the page: Longines' US page names no calibre, lug-to-lug, thickness or lug width, so the table carries dashes and this site records what the page says rather than what a retailer measured. Reference L3.781.4.56.6, the current generation: 41 mm, automatic at 25,200 vph with a 72-hour reserve, 300 m, sapphire with AR on both sides, unidirectional rotating bezel, Super-LumiNova. It is the first Longines on this ladder; the Conquest at $2,400 is on the under-$2,500 list and the Spirit 40 at $2,550 in that list's notes. The Marathon below at the same price publishes its 14 mm thickness and carries tritium; the Longines has the 72-hour reserve and the bracelet.
Also exactly $2,000, and bought for the tritium: gas tubes plus MaraGlo, so the lume works without charging, which is why it is here and not the Longines alone. The Search and Rescue diver is 41 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 14 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Sellita SW200-1, 300 m, sapphire, unidirectional fully hashed 60-minute bezel, brushed 316L, on a three-piece rubber strap kit, direct from Marathon, which is also the street price. It is the thickest entry at 14 mm and the longest lug to lug at 48 mm. The Officer's Mechanical at $675 is the small hand-wound Marathon on the under-$1,000 list. The Longines at the same money has the 72-hour reserve and the bracelet; the Marathon is the one that tells you how thick it is.
The full-size Reef, at the same $2,085 to $2,230 (CHF 1,760 to 1,890) as the 39.5, with the Radiant Bronze at CHF 1,950 to 2,065. 42 mm, 47 mm lug to lug, 22 mm lugs, 300 m, Sellita SW300-1 COSC, unidirectional 120-click ceramic bezel; the brand quotes a perceived height of 9.4 mm, which is a figure for the brochure, and the case is 11.4 mm. The screwed-link bracelet and the rubber strap are both in the box. The alternative for the same money is the Reef 39.5; the alternative for $270 more is the Reef GMT, the same case with a second time zone. The trade against the 39.5 is 1.5 mm of length for 2.5 mm of dial.
MovementValjoux A05.H31 automatic chronograph, 60h power reserve
Case42 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness14.54 mm
Lug width—
Water resistance100 m
Crystalsapphire, AR underside
Case materialsteel
LumeSuper-LumiNova
Price$2,150
The thickest watch here at 14.54 mm, and a Valjoux chronograph on the integrated bracelet costs $1,300 over the three-hand PRX. 42 mm, A05.H31 automatic chronograph with a 60-hour reserve, 100 m, sapphire with AR on the underside, Super-LumiNova, $2,150. Tissot's page lists a "length" of 41.5 mm and a "lug width" of 13 mm, which are the integrated end-link figures rather than a lug-to-lug or a strap width, so both are left blank in the table. The page carries no assembly statement. The PRX Powermatic 80 three-hander is $850 and 10.93 mm on the under-$1,000 list; the chronograph adds 3.61 mm and $1,300. The Farer Libre at $2,095 is the chronograph alternative, hand-wound and 13.4 mm.
MovementSwiss automatic, 38 h reserve (calibre not named on page)
Case42.5 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness13.65 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance1200 m
Crystalsapphire, AR
Bezelunidirectional, no-decompression scale, feet
LumeSuper-LumiNova
Case material316L stainless steel
Price$2,190
The deepest rating on either list at 1,200 m, $2,190 on the steel bracelet, and Doxa names neither the calibre nor the lug-to-lug. 42.5 mm, 13.65 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, a Swiss automatic with a 38-hour reserve, sapphire with AR, unidirectional bezel carrying the no-decompression scale in feet, Super-LumiNova, 316L. It is 2.4 times the Sinn EZM 3's 500 m for $220 less, and the Sinn is 1.35 mm thinner and publishes its 47.5 mm lug-to-lug. The Formex Reef at $2,085 is the certified 300 m diver; the Doxa is the one for the number on the bezel.
The one non-mechanical entry, here because Seiko publishes the full sheet where several mechanical rivals on this page do not. 41.2 mm, 48.5 mm lug-to-lug, 12 mm thick, Seiko 3X62 GPS solar, 100 m, sapphire, titanium with Seiko's super-hard coating, LumiBrite on hands and indexes, $2,200. No lug width is published. It is the entry-level Astron; the range runs $2,200 to $3,300 on the US site per a search snippet. The Grand Seiko SBGX261 quartz at 37 mm is the watch most people weigh it against, and it is $2,700 on the live page, over the line, against $2,300 in Grand Seiko's own November 2024 price list. The Astron is the one that sets itself; the Grand Seiko is the one with the name.
Bezelbidirectional 48-click, removable, ceramic or steel insert, BGW9 lume
LumeSuper-LumiNova BGW9
Case material316L steel
Price$2,355
The GMT diver at $2,355 to $2,490 (CHF 1,920 to 2,050), and a caller GMT, which decides who should buy it: the Sellita SW330-2 COSC sets the 24-hour hand independently and the local hour does not jump, so it suits the desk that phones another zone, not the traveller. 42 mm, 47 mm lug to lug, 11.4 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 300 m, 56-hour reserve, a bidirectional 48-click removable bezel with a ceramic or steel insert and BGW9 lume, across bracelet, mesh, leather and rubber. The alternative for $270 less is the Reef 42 on three hands; for $2,115 more, the Stratos jumps the hour. The trade is the GMT type, and it is the whole decision.
MovementAutomatic, 25,200 vph, silicon balance-spring, 72h power reserve
Case41 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness—
Lug width—
Water resistance100 m
Crystalsapphire, AR both sides
Case materialsteel
LumeSuper-LumiNova
Price$2,400
$400 over the HydroConquest for 200 m less and no bezel; the difference Longines' page gives is the silicon balance spring. 41 mm, automatic at 25,200 vph with a 72-hour reserve, 100 m, sapphire with AR on both sides, Super-LumiNova, sunray black dial, on the bracelet, $2,400. The US page publishes no lug-to-lug, thickness, lug width or calibre name, so the table shows dashes. The HydroConquest at exactly $2,000 on the under-$2,000 list has the same 72-hour reserve at 300 m with a bezel. The Spirit 40 at $2,550 is over the line by $50 on the bracelet and COSC-certified per its page; the Spirit 37 showed $2,850 on the same site.
Case materialsand-blasted stainless steel with soft-iron core
Price$2,410
The one Sinn on any list here, and only because its distributor's page loaded: sinn.de returned 403 to every fetcher, so the figures are WatchBuys', read from its own product page. 41 mm, 47.5 mm lug-to-lug, 12.3 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, Sellita SW200-1, 500 m, sapphire, captive unidirectional 60-click bezel, left-hand crown, sand-blasted steel with a soft-iron core, $2,410 on strap and $2,890 on the H-link bracelet. It is the deepest rating on this list; lume is not stated. The 556 I and 104 St Sa I, under $2,000 on strap by search snippets, could not be fetched from either site and sit in the notes of the under-$2,000 list. The Formex Reef at $2,085 is 300 m with a certificate; the Sinn is 500 m without one.
Case material316L steel, screw-down crown and guards
Price$2,435
The 300 m GMT with a bezel, for someone who wants the Oceanking's rating with a second zone: 40.7 mm, 47.4 mm lug-to-lug, 11.8 mm thick, M-23, bidirectional aluminium 24-hour bezel on the brand's patent-pending assembly, crown guards, 7-layer AR, 3-slot bracelet, $2,435 in black, gilt or a bi-colour bezel. The page showed sold out while the feed showed available; take the page. Against the Atlas it is $285 more for the bezel, 150 m and 1.1 mm. The Formex Reef GMT 42 at $2,355 is a COSC-certified SW330-2 at 300 m, 11.4 mm and 47 mm lug-to-lug, $80 less and 1.3 mm wider. The Skyquest is 0.4 mm thicker and uncertified; the Formex is the bigger watch.
The same reference, 01 733 7766 4135-07 8 22 05PEB, recorded a second time from the same Oris US page, and kept because the two reads disagree on one thing worth knowing. This read carries the calibre by name, Oris 733-1 at 28,800 vph with 41 hours, and found the page marked not available; a search snippet showed $2,800 for the reference, and the page itself said $2,600. Everything else matches the row above: 41.5 mm, 22 mm lugs, 300 m, domed sapphire, ceramic insert. Treat the pair as one watch at $2,600, and confirm it is in stock before treating the price as current.
The Oris pilot's watch on the bracelet, $2,600, with a big date the Longines Spirit does not have and without the certificate the Spirit does. 41 mm, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, Oris Caliber 751 automatic with 38 hours, sapphire domed on both sides with AR inside, the fluted turbine-style bezel, steel; the US range runs $2,400 to $2,600 by strap. Thickness, lug-to-lug and lume are not stated. The Spirit 40 is $50 less, COSC, with a silicon balance spring and 72 hours against 38. The ProPilot X below is $2,200 more for the five-day Calibre 400 in titanium. The 38-hour reserve is the plain trade.
The cheaper Legend Diver and the one whose page names its calibre: L888 automatic with a silicon balance spring and 72 hours, 42 mm, 300 m, internal rotating flange on a second crown, sapphire with multi-layer AR underneath, Swiss Super-LumiNova, on leather at $2,850. Longines publishes no thickness, lug-to-lug or lug width; the black-dial bracelet version redirects to the US homepage and is not recorded. The Seiko SLA079 above is $50 more at the same 300 m with every dimension printed. The 39 mm version below is $650 more for 3 mm less case. Buy the 42 for the calibre and the price; measure it yourself.
The same U50 as entry six, recorded from sinn.de search snippets rather than the WatchBuys product page, and kept because the two sources agree: 41 mm, 11.2 mm thick, 500 m, $3,440 on silicone and $3,640 on the H-link bracelet. This read adds the DNV certification to 50 bar and the captive Tegimented bezel, and drops the lug-to-lug and lug width the distributor page gave. The U50 Hydro runs $2,970 to $3,450 per the same snippets. Neither read reached sinn.de itself; both check dates returned 403. Treat the two rows as one watch, and the WatchBuys figures as the ones to quote.
MovementSoprod Newton P092 automatic, COSC certified
Case41 mm
Lug to lug46.2 mm
Thickness11.2 mm
Lug width22 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystalsapphire front and back, AR treated
Bezelfixed ceramic
LumeSuper-LumiNova BGW9
Case materialzirconium oxide ceramic (case and bracelet)
Price$3,690
A ceramic case on a ceramic bracelet under a certified movement, $3,690, and the entire line was out of stock on the check date. 41 mm, 46.2 mm lug-to-lug, 11.2 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 100 m, Soprod Newton P092 automatic, COSC, sapphire front and back with AR, zirconium-oxide case, fixed ceramic bezel and solid-link ceramic bracelet with a micro-adjustable clasp, Super-LumiNova BGW9, the brand's Case Suspension System, in the store's dollar pricing (CHF 2,990). The ceramic alternative is the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic at $4,600 in the notes (43 mm, 14.6 mm): the Formex is 2 mm smaller, 3.4 mm thinner and $910 less, and its page states a certificate and a water-resistance figure where the Rado page read gave neither.
CrystalSapphire front and back, inner AR; sapphire dial
BezelFixed
LumeSuper-LumiNova BGW9 inserts
Case materialTitanium, Zirc/Ti Damascus, tantalum or sapphire
Price$3,900
An eight-day hand-wound skeleton in titanium for $3,900, on 2021 press figures from Monochrome, for a watch that is not in the current Zelos feed; the row is here because the data carries it. 42 mm, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 13 mm thick, 50 m, La Joux-Perret LJP7500 at 3 Hz with 33 jewels, sapphire front, back and dial, BGW9 inserts. The Damascus and tantalum cases were $4,900 and the sapphire case $8,900, in runs of 25 or 50. The Furlan Marri Disco Volante above is $800 less for a hand-wound that is at least on the maker's site, retired. Treat this as a record, not an offer.
MovementSellita SW510 BH M Elaboré hand-wound, 23 jewels, 58h
Case42 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness14 mm
Lug width—
Water resistance100 m
CrystalDouble-domed sapphire, AR
BezelFixed
LumeNot stated
Case material316L steel, polished and brushed
Price$4,250
Ranked on the Magraph and represented by the Archetype 1.0, because the Archetype is the top of the own-brand range with a full spec sheet. The Archetype: Sellita SW510 BH M Elaboré hand-wound, 58 hours, 42 mm, 14 mm thick, 100 m, double-domed sapphire, made in Switzerland, $4,250, limited to 50 and sold as a friends-and-family exclusive at one per household. The Magraph: a hand-wound M660 designed by Raúl Pagès for Massena LAB, 4 Hz, 60 hours, $8,675 and sold out, the brand's first proprietary movement. The floor is the $1,595 Dato-Racer on a Sellita SW400-1. Warranty two years. Collaborations with Habring2, Louis Erard and Vianney Halter run to $49,900 and are not counted here.
An integrated-bracelet sports watch on Baume & Mercier's Baumatic calibre, $4,300 at Teddy Baldassarre, an authorised retailer, because baume-et-mercier.com timed out twice; the retailer's title calls the BM13-1975A a COSC chronometer and the page names nothing else. 42 mm, steel, and that is the whole spec sheet this site could read: no water resistance, thickness, lug-to-lug, crystal or lume. Grey-market listings ran $2,886 to $3,120 in a search snippet, at least $1,180 under the retailer figure. The Tudor Royal 40 above is $625 less on an integrated bracelet with an in-house COSC day-date and a stated 11.4 mm. This row is a price and a diameter.
Bezelbidirectional internal slide-rule bezel under crystal
Case materialstainless steel
Price$4,310
The column-wheel chronograph under the line, $4,310 on the strap at WatchBuys, Sinn's North American distributor, and $4,730 on the fine-link bracelet. 41 mm, 48.5 mm lug-to-lug, 14.5 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 200 m, La Joux-Perret L110 automatic column-wheel chronograph, sapphire, a bidirectional slide-rule bezel under the crystal. Lume is not stated. The Hamilton Intra-Matic above is $1,665 less for an H-31 at 100 m with no lug-to-lug; the Massena LAB Uni-Racer is $815 less at 9 mm, hand-wound, under acrylic. The 903 is the one with a rating and a full row of dimensions; the 14.5 mm and the 48.5 mm are what you pay in wrist.
MovementETA 2892 with Dubois-Depraz GMT module, pusher-set jumping local hour, regulated to +/-7 s/day
Case41 mm
Lug to lug47 mm
Thickness11.8 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystalsapphire front and back, AR treated
Bezelfixed
LumeSuper-LumiNova BGW9, hand-painted numerals
Case material316L steel, multi-layer case
Price$4,470
The Formex for the traveller, and the most expensive current model in stock: $4,315 to $4,470 (CHF 3,350 to 3,480), on a screwed-link bracelet or leather. The movement is an ETA 2892 with a Dubois-Depraz GMT module, set by pusher so the local hour jumps in 1-hour steps, regulated to plus or minus 7 seconds a day and not COSC certified, which at this price is worth knowing. 41 mm multi-layer steel case, 47 mm lug to lug, 11.8 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, numerals hand-painted in BGW9. The alternative for $2,115 less is the Reef GMT. The trade is 200 m of water resistance for the jumping hour, and $2,115.
MovementCW FS01 (Sellita SW200-1 base with hourly sonnerie au passage module)
Case41 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness—
Lug width—
Water resistance—
Crystal—
Case materialGrade 5 titanium
Price$4,995
The chiming watch, and $5 under the line on leather: $4,995 for the C1 Bel Canto Classic in Grade 5 titanium, $5,340 on the Bader bracelet and over. 41 mm, CW FS01 automatic, a Sellita SW200-1 base carrying Christopher Ward's hourly sonnerie au passage module. The listing page gave no thickness, lug-to-lug, water resistance or crystal. The original non-Classic Bel Canto launched at $3,595 per the brand; no current listing was found. The NOMOS Tangente 41 above is $125 less and prints every dimension; nothing else under $5,000 on this site strikes the hour. That is the entire case for it.
Bezelbidirectional, titanium with ceramic disc, 60-minute retrograde graduation
Case materialtitanium, fixed strap bars, steel case back
Price$5,025
The cheapest Tudor over $5,000 and the one Tudor that publishes a lug-to-lug: 52 mm on a 42 mm case, 12.75 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 200 m, the MT5602 with COSC and about 70 hours, titanium with fixed strap bars and a steel case back, a bidirectional ceramic bezel with a 60-minute retrograde scale, $5,025 on the navy fabric strap. The bars are fixed, so no bracelet. Against the Pelagos 39 at $5,625 it is $600 less, 3 mm wider and 0.95 mm thicker, and its 52 mm is 2.6 mm longer than the NOMOS world timer's, the longest in the ranked list. Measure before buying.
Bezelbidirectional 48-notch, 24-hour aluminium disc, burgundy and blue
Case materialsteel
Price$5,275
$5,275 on the rivet bracelet buys Tudor's in-house GMT, the MT5652 with COSC and about 70 hours, in 41 mm, 14.6 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 200 m, domed sapphire, a bidirectional 48-notch bezel with a burgundy and blue aluminium 24-hour disc ($4,925 on fabric). No lug-to-lug published. At 14.6 mm it is 1 mm thicker than the Black Bay 41 and 2.8 mm thicker than the Pelagos 39, the price of the calibre. The Black Bay Pro below is the same movement in 39 mm for $200 less with the bezel fixed. Against the Grand Seiko SBGE285 GMT at $8,900: $3,625 less, 0.7 mm thicker, 100 m deeper.
Tudor Black Bay 41 (current, METAS, black dial, bracelet)
MovementMT5602-U, COSC + METAS, 70 h
Case41 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness13.6 mm
Lug width21 mm
Water resistance200 m
Crystaldomed sapphire
Bezelunidirectional, black aluminium insert
Case materialsteel
Price$5,325
$5,325 buys the Black Bay 58's two certificates in the larger case: 41 mm, 13.6 mm thick, 21 mm lugs, 200 m, the MT5602-U with COSC and METAS and 70 hours, domed sapphire, a black aluminium bezel insert, on the bracelet at Exquisite Timepieces ($5,075 on rubber). No lug-to-lug published. It is $25 less than the Black Bay 58 for 2 mm more diameter and 1.9 mm more thickness, which is the whole decision. The Black Bay GMT below is the same case size with the second hand for $50 less and one certificate fewer.
A manufacture diver that publishes its thickness, $6,100 excluding sales tax on the US site, and at 14.35 mm the thickest published figure on the page. 42 mm, 22 mm lugs tapering to 20, 200 m, B20 manufacture automatic, COSC, cambered sapphire glareproofed on both sides, steel, unidirectional ratcheted bezel with a ceramic ring, on the bracelet. No lug-to-lug. Omega publishes no thickness for the Seamaster 300M to compare it with. The Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 at $10,300 is over. Against the Tudor Black Bay 58 at $5,350: 3 mm larger, 2.65 mm thicker, the same 200 m, an in-house calibre with COSC against one with COSC and METAS, and $750 more.
The older reference at the older price, $6,700 on the US page, while it lasts: the "NEW" 210.30.42.20.01.018 and the other steel-on-steel variants beside it list $7,300, so the $6,700 applies to this dial and reference only. 42 mm, 300 m, calibre 8800 Co-Axial Master Chronometer (METAS), sapphire, 316L steel, unidirectional ceramic bezel, black ceramic dial, on the bracelet. No thickness or between-lugs, as with every Omega here. The Seamaster 300 Heritage 41 at $8,000 (8912, 300 m, aluminium bezel with vintage-tone Super-LumiNova) is the other Omega diver under the line. Against the Breitling Superocean Heritage below at $6,100: 100 m deeper, METAS against COSC, $600 more, and Breitling the one that publishes a thickness.
Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive 'Snowflake' SBGA211
41 × 49 mm · ref 40 × 47
Movement9R65 Spring Drive, self-winding with manual winding
Case41 mm
Lug to lug49 mm
Thickness12.5 mm
Lug width20 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystaldual-curved sapphire, AR inside
Bezelfixed
Case materialHigh-Intensity Titanium
Price$6,900
Spring Drive in titanium at $6,900 on grand-seiko.com/us-en, and the one Grand Seiko here that older lists still price correctly. 41 mm, 49 mm lug-to-lug, 12.5 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, 9R65 Spring Drive with self-winding and manual winding, dual-curved sapphire with AR inside, High-Intensity Titanium. Lume is not stated on the page. The mechanical alternative from the same maker is the Hi-Beat SBGH347 at $7,300 (37 mm, 44.6 mm, 13.3 mm, 19 mm lugs, 9S85 at 36,000 vph, Ever-Brilliant Steel), 4 mm smaller and 0.8 mm thicker. The Spring Drive GMT SBGE285 at $8,900 (41 mm, 48.3 mm, 13.9 mm, titanium, 9R66) adds the second zone for $2,000. The 49 mm lug-to-lug is the figure to check on 41 mm.
MovementRolex 3230, Superlative Chronometer, ~70 h
Case41 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness—
Lug width—
Water resistance100 m
Crystalscratch-resistant sapphire
Bezeldomed, Oystersteel
Case materialOystersteel (904L)
Price$7,050
$7,050 at list on rolex.com/en-us for the Oyster Perpetual in its largest size, and the reference is now 134300; the 124300 page the older lists link to says it is not available. 41 mm, 100 m, calibre 3230, Superlative Chronometer, about 70 hours, sapphire, Oystersteel, a domed bezel, pistachio dial. No thickness, lug-to-lug or lug width published, as with every Rolex. Against the Oyster Perpetual 36 above at $6,750: $300 more for 5 mm of diameter and nothing else on the sheet. Against the Omega Aqua Terra 41 below at $7,100: $50 less and 50 m shallower, and list is not availability at Rolex.
$7,100 on the US page for the 41 mm Aqua Terra on the bracelet, with the 8900 Co-Axial Master Chronometer (METAS), 150 m, sapphire, a fixed bezel and 316L steel; the steel-on-steel variants beside it list $7,400 and the "NEW" rubber-strap version $7,800. No thickness or between-lugs. Against the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 at $7,050: $50 more, 50 m deeper, a date, and a METAS certificate where Rolex states its own. Against the Seamaster 300 Heritage at $8,000: $900 less, 150 m shallower, no rotating bezel. The 38 mm below is the same money; the choice is wrist size, made without a lug-to-lug.
The hesalite exception and the one hand-wound Omega here, $7,800 on the US page, and the only chronograph under the line with a stated certificate. 42 mm, 50 m, calibre 3861 manual-winding Co-Axial Master Chronometer (METAS), hesalite crystal, 316L steel, fixed aluminium tachymeter bezel, on the bracelet. The sapphire version of the same watch (310.30.42.50.01.002) is $9,000, and a "NEW" sapphire reference on the same page lists $10,400, over the line. Omega's technical-data tab did not load in text, so thickness and between-lugs are dashes, as for every Omega on the page. The IWC Pilot's Chronograph 41 at $8,800 names no certificate on its page and the Zenith Chronomaster Original is $11,100. Hesalite is the trade; the sapphire version is the same watch for $1,200 more.
Bezelunidirectional, aluminium with vintage Super-LumiNova
LumeSuper-LumiNova (vintage tone)
Case material316L stainless steel
Price$8,000
The second Omega diver under the line and $1,300 over the Seamaster Diver 300M above: $8,000 on the US page for 41 mm, 300 m, the 8912 Co-Axial Master Chronometer (METAS), sapphire, 316L steel, a unidirectional aluminium bezel with vintage-tone Super-LumiNova, on the bracelet. No thickness or between-lugs. The $1,300 buys the 8912, an aluminium insert in place of ceramic, and 1 mm less diameter at the same 300 m. Against the Tudor Black Bay 41 at $5,325: $2,675 more, 100 m deeper, METAS against COSC plus METAS. The sheet cannot justify the $1,300; that is finishing, which Omega does not put in a table.
The thinnest automatic on the page at 8.82 mm, $8,400 on cartier.com/en-us, sold with the bracelet and a leather strap. A 41.9 by 35.1 mm steel case, 100 m (10 bar), calibre 1847 MC automatic, sapphire, fixed screwed bezel; the table's case column carries the 41.9 mm length. Only the Formex Aria below at 6.9 mm is thinner, and that is a micro-rotor calibre at 30 m. The Tank Must SolarBeat at $4,400 is Cartier's quartz on the under-$5,000 list, 6.6 mm in a 33.7 by 25.5 mm case. Against the Rolex Datejust 36 at $8,350 in the notes: $50 more, a published thickness against none, and no chronometer certificate stated where Rolex states one.
MovementIWC automatic chronograph (69385 family, not named on the fetched text)
Case41 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness—
Lug width—
Water resistance—
Crystal—
Bezelfixed
Case materialstainless steel
Price$8,800
$8,800 "VAT excluded" on the IWC US page for the Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 on the bracelet, blue dial, reference IW388102, and the thinnest spec sheet at this price: 41 mm, steel, a fixed bezel, an automatic chronograph from the 69385 family that the fetched text did not name, and no height, water resistance or crystal in the text that loaded. IWC was read through a US reader, as with the Mark XX above. Against the Omega Speedmaster sapphire at $9,000: $200 less, automatic against hand-wound, and Omega the one stating a certificate. Against the hesalite Speedmaster at $7,800: $1,000 more for a page that, as read, states less.
Movement9R66 Spring Drive GMT, self-winding with manual winding
Case41 mm
Lug to lug48.3 mm
Thickness13.9 mm
Lug width22 mm
Water resistance100 m
Crystalbox-shaped sapphire, AR inside
Bezelrotating 24-hour (not detailed on page)
Case materialHigh-Intensity Titanium
Price$8,900
$8,900 on grand-seiko.com/us-en for Spring Drive with a second time zone, in High-Intensity Titanium: 41 mm, 48.3 mm lug-to-lug, 13.9 mm thick, 22 mm lugs, 100 m, the 9R66, a box sapphire with AR inside, a rotating 24-hour bezel. Against the Snowflake above at $6,900: $2,000 more, 0.7 mm shorter lug-to-lug, 1.4 mm thicker, 2 mm wider lugs, and the second zone. Against the NOMOS world timer at $6,710: $2,190 more, 3 mm thicker, 50 m deeper. The most expensive GMT on the page and the only one that publishes every dimension; the two Tudor GMTs cost $3,625 and $3,825 less and print no lug-to-lug.
The same watch as the hesalite Speedmaster above for $1,200 more: $9,000 on the US page for reference 310.30.42.50.01.002, 42 mm, 50 m, the hand-wound 3861 Co-Axial Master Chronometer (METAS), sapphire, 316L steel, a fixed aluminium tachymeter bezel, on the bracelet. A NEW reference on the same page, 310.30.42.50.01.004, lists $10,400 and is over the line. No thickness or between-lugs, as with every Omega. The $1,200 buys sapphire and nothing else the sheet records. Against the IWC Pilot's Chronograph 41 below at $8,800: $200 more, hand-wound against automatic, and a certificate stated against none.
Exactly $10,000 on the Zenith US page, counted as in, and the row is medium confidence: the technical-feature counters (diameter, water resistance, power reserve) render as animated zeros in text, so the rating and crystal are dashes. 41 mm, from the page title; El Primero 3620 automatic with a 1/10th-second indicator; steel; fixed octagonal faceted bezel; on the bracelet. The Chronomaster Original 38 is $11,100 on the bracelet and $10,600 on strap, both over; its reverse-panda reference returns a 404 on the US site. Against the Grand Seiko SLGA021 at $9,800: $200 more, and every dimension the Grand Seiko page publishes is one the Zenith page did not deliver.
MovementBreitling 01 manufacture automatic chronograph, COSC, ~70 h
Case41 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness13.6 mm
Lug width22 mm
Water resistance30 m
Crystalcambered sapphire, glareproofed both sides
Bezelbidirectional slide rule
Case materialstainless steel
Price$10,300
Above the ladder at $10,300 on the strap, the Navitimer is here because the site said nothing would be left off, not because a bracket fits it. A 41 mm manufacture chronograph, 13.6 mm thick, 30 m, COSC, on Breitling's own B01 with about 70 hours of reserve; the maker publishes no lug-to-lug. The Speedmaster at $9,000 on sapphire is the comparison the money invites, hand-wound and 50 m, and the difference is a slide rule and an automatic.
MovementRolex 3235, Superlative Chronometer, ~70 h
Case41 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness—
Lug width—
Water resistance300 m
Crystalscratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops
Bezelunidirectional 60-min, Cerachrom black ceramic, platinum-coated graduations
Case materialOystersteel
Price$11,350
The Submariner Date is $11,350 at list on rolex.com, the top of this page by $3,350, and list is the number the dealers do not sell at. 41 mm, 300 m, calibre 3235 with about 70 hours and the Superlative Chronometer designation, sapphire with the Cyclops, a unidirectional Cerachrom bezel with platinum-coated graduations, Oystersteel. Rolex publishes neither thickness nor lug-to-lug. For $3,350 less the Omega Seamaster 300 is the certified alternative you can buy at the price printed; for $5,725 less the Tudor Pelagos 39 is titanium with a COSC certificate. The list price is where the queue starts.
Case material904L steel, made and finished in Garrick's Norfolk workshop
Price£17,500 on the maker's site (no US price shown)
Ninth on a flagship built with Garrick and a core range on La Joux-Perret. The Fears Garrick runs a UT-G04 hand-wound at 18,000 vph, 45 hours, free-sprung Trinity balance, in a 904L case made and finished in Garrick's Norfolk workshop, 42 mm, 49 mm lug-to-lug, 10 mm thick, 100 m. GBP 17,500 excluding VAT (21,000 including), fewer than 5 a year, 2 build slots a year, orders delivering August 2027; the Brunswick Pt is GBP 21,000 excluding VAT. The core range runs La Joux-Perret G100 and D100 from GBP 2,458 ex VAT (Redcliff 39.5 Date). Fears says hand-built in Britain, and its spec sheets disclose case and caseback made in Hong Kong for the Brunswick and Redcliff and in Switzerland for the Arnos. Warranty two years.
Case materialSteel, titanium, gold, platinum or tantalum
Price€110,000 on the maker's site (no US price shown)
First on the first criterion alone: the SBTV01 is a flying tourbillon made with Comblemine for Sartory-Billard, and nothing else on this page has a movement of its own at that level. 3 Hz, 96 hours of reserve, 209 parts, in a 41 mm case 47 mm lug-to-lug and 9.5 mm thick, 50 m, in steel, titanium, gold, platinum or tantalum. From EUR 110,000 excluding VAT, 24 a year, delivery from 8 months, on a non-refundable deposit. The rest of the range is bespoke on La Joux-Perret bases, from the EUR 3,500 SB04-E Winter 2026 edition through the SB04-E bespoke from EUR 5,000 to the SB05 ultra-thin at EUR 15,000. Finished and assembled in France; dials designed and finished in-house. The site does not state a warranty term, which is worth asking about before the deposit.
Ø41.5 mm · hand wound · 50 m · No maker price on the check date
Ming 20.01 Series 2
MovementAgenhor for MING Agengraphe Cal. 6361.M1 manual-winding chronograph
Case41.5 mm
Lug to lug—
Thickness14.2 mm
Lug width22 mm
Water resistance50 m
Crystaldomed sapphire front and rear, AR both sides
Bezelfixed
LumeSuper-LumiNova X1 hands, HyCeram ceramic Super-LumiNova dial fill
Case materialgrade 5 titanium, 34 parts
Price—
The reference point above everything else, and a row whose figure needs a caveat: the Series 2 page shows no price, and the CHF 43,500 in the table is the Series 3 figure from a search result, not fetched from the maker. Agenhor's Agengraphe Cal. 6361.M1, a manual-winding chronograph, in a 34-part grade 5 titanium case, 41.5 mm, 14.2 mm thick, 22 mm lug, 50 m, with HyCeram lume filling the dial. Lug-to-lug is not published; the run is sold out and will not be repeated. Formex's Aria is $7,900 on the FX01 manufacture micro-rotor at 40 mm and 6.9 mm; Breitling's Navitimer B01 is $10,300 at 41 mm. Neither is an Agengraphe, and that is the argument.