Hand-wound watches, by price

The dress watch to buy under $300, and the only hand-wound watch in this data at the price: 34 mm case, 10 mm thick, 30 m, acrylic crystal, 18 mm lugs, polished steel, silver dial on a croc-embossed leather strap, $259. Timex describes the movement as a mechanical hand-wound with about 40 hours of reserve and does not name the calibre; no lug-to-lug is published. The 30 m rating and the acrylic keep it in the dress category. The alternative in the same family is the Marlin Automatic 40 at $299: 40 mm, 13 mm thick, 50 m, and $40 more. This is a 1965 reissue at the original's 34 mm, the smallest case on the page.

The watch most often quoted at $495, and $675 on hamiltonwatch.com, on a NATO. 38 mm, 47 mm lug-to-lug, 9.5 mm thick, Hamilton H-50 hand-wound with an 80-hour reserve and a Nivachron hairspring, 50 m, sapphire. It is the thinnest watch on this list and one of two hand-wound ones (the Marathon is the other); 50 m is the trade: fine for rain, not stated for swimming. A discounter listed it at $526.50 the same day, which is where the old figure came from. The Marathon Officer's at the same $675 is the alternative, Swiss hand-wound, with tritium and 3 mm less lug-to-lug. The Khaki Field Auto 38 at $845 is the automatic with 100 m, on the under-$1,000 list.

The pick for wrists under 6.5 inches, 44 mm lug-to-lug being the shortest here, and the one to choose over the Hamilton beside it if the lume must work without charging. Marathon builds to a US military specification (the GPM is listed to MIL-PRF-46374G) and sells direct, so $675 list is the street price. Steel GPM: 36 mm, 10.5 mm thick, Sellita SW210-1 hand-wound, 50 m, sapphire, parkerized 316L, tritium gas tubes plus MaraGlo lume, on ballistic nylon. The 34 mm GPM in fibreshell composite is $575 on a Seiko NH35. The trade against the Hamilton at the same $675 is 2 mm of case and 1 mm of thickness; the return is tritium, which glows for years.

The mechanical chronograph to buy at $800, the maker's US price, if a Seagull calibre is acceptable where everything else has three hands. 38.5 mm, 44.5 mm lug-to-lug, 12.9 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, a bespoke hand-wound ST-1901B with a 50-hour reserve, 50 m, sapphire, C3 lume, on Epsom leather tapering 20 to 16 mm. Against the Lorier Olympia at the end of this section it is 1.5 mm shorter, 0.9 mm thinner and $199 less, with sapphire where the Lorier has Hesalite. The alternative at $799 is the Hyperion, a true GMT rather than a stopwatch. The Underd0g's trade is the movement's origin and the 50 m.

The cheapest Farer at $1,165 (£1,045) and the smallest, and the one for a wrist that finds 38 mm large. A 35 mm cushion case the brand states at 38 mm lug to lug, 10 mm thick, 18 mm lugs, Sellita SW210-1 hand-wound, 50 m, exhibition back, no lume listed. The Furneaux, Belzoni and Benham Black are the same watch at the same price with different dials. The alternative in the hand-wound dress row is the Solander at $130 more, 3 mm larger in diameter and 2 mm thinner. The trade at $1,165 is 18 mm lugs, which narrow the strap choice, and a 50 m rating.

The hand-wound Sellita at $1,200, the maker's US price, and the only 18 mm lug on the page. 37.5 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 11.5 mm thick, a Sellita SW200-2 M Power+ with a 63-hour reserve and a stated -7/+7 seconds a day, 100 m, sapphire over a 1 mm tinted sapphire dial layer, on leather tapering 18 to 16 mm. The lug-to-lug is 1 mm longer than the 39 mm Farer Resolute III's. The Serica 6190 at $1,290 is the alternative: 38 mm, 46.5 mm, 10.4 mm, COSC, 200 m, for $90 more. The Underd0g's trade is 1.1 mm of thickness and no certificate, for the dial.

The thinnest Baltic at 9.2 mm and, from €990, the first with a Swiss movement. 36 mm across, 44 mm lug to lug, ETA/Peseux 7001 hand-wound, 30 m, double-domed sapphire, a case of 316L steel and grade 5 titanium polished above and circular-brushed below, on Italian calf leather or a steel mesh bracelet, in Salmon, Purple or Green (Grey Blue was out of stock at check). No lume is listed. The alternative for €445 less is the MR Classic, the same 36 mm by 44 mm footprint, 0.7 mm thicker, under hesalite, on a micro-rotor automatic. The trade for going Swiss is winding it yourself, and 30 m means keeping it dry.

The thinnest Farer at 7.95 mm, and the lower-priced route to a La Joux-Perret D100 in this data set: $1,295 (£1,150), against Baltic's Prismic Stone at €1,450 on the same calibre. 38 mm, 42.8 mm lug to lug, 50 m, flat sapphire with AR on both faces, soigné grade, Lumicast numerals in Grade X2 Super-LumiNova, which is unusual on a dress watch this thin. Out of stock at check. The alternative in the hand-wound row is the Marsden at $130 less, 3 mm smaller and 2 mm thicker. The trade is that you wind it, keep it out of the water, and wait for the next run.

The watch Ophion started with in 2015, and the one with the longest reserve: a 13¼-line hand-wound with 2 barrels, 26 jewels and 5 days. 42.9 mm across, 42 mm at the bezel, 10.35 mm thick, 22 mm lug, 316L steel, Super-LumiNova C3 on the inner bezel marks, on leather. Sold out at check, with reservations open and no price shown; the EUR 1,305 is SJX's before-tax launch figure. Against the Vélos it is 4.4 mm larger on the same thickness, with 3 more days of reserve. Nothing else in this data offers 5 days hand-wound; the Baltic Prismic at €990 gives 42 hours on a Peseux 7001 in 36 mm.

The stone-dial Prismic is a different watch rather than a dial option: the movement changes to a La Joux-Perret D100 hand-wound and the price to €1,450 for the Pietersite, €1,300 for the other stone dials. The case is the base Prismic's, 36 mm, 44 mm lug to lug, 9.2 mm thick, steel and grade 5 titanium, 30 m, double-domed sapphire, on a brushed steel mesh bracelet. The alternative at close to the money is Farer's Solander, the same D100 at $1,295 (£1,150) in a 38 mm case 1.25 mm thinner. The trade against the €990 Prismic is €460 for the stone and the calibre; the size and the rating do not move.

A 7.3 mm hand-wound with small seconds at €1,590 including 19% VAT, and the thinnest watch on this page by 0.9 mm over the Serica Parade. Reference 27/3504.02 on the page read: 37.7 mm, Junghans J815.1 hand-wound with a 42-hour reserve, 50 m, sapphire with AR, screwed steel back. No lug-to-lug or lug width is published and no lume is stated. US dealers quoted it in search snippets that were not fetched, so the row holds the euro figure only. The Serica Parade, €1,490 on its own store, is 8.2 mm, 35 mm, 100 m and COSC-certified; the Junghans is thinner and larger, at 50 m, without a certificate.

The only Baltic chronograph since the Bicompax retired, and the most expensive at €1,585 on the flat-link bracelet, with beads-of-rice or leather as options and the non-Classic Scalegraph at €1,635. Sellita SW510-M hand-wound chronograph, 39.5 mm, 47 mm lug to lug, 13.5 mm thick, 50 m, double-domed sapphire, fixed aluminium tachymeter bezel, Super-LumiNova BGW9, on the same footprint as the Aquascaphe MK2. The alternative on the same calibre is Farer's Libre at $2,095 (£1,875), rated to 100 m and limited to 100 units. The trade at Baltic is 50 m: this is a chronograph for the desk, and the Farer's extra rating is part of what the extra money buys.

The entry to the high-end tier and the odd one out on lug width: 24 mm, against 20 mm on every other Zelos. 40 mm, 45.5 mm lug-to-lug, 10.2 mm thick, 50 m, a skeletonised Marvin 700 hand-wound under box sapphire, a sandblasted titanium case with a white Cerakote mid-case, on FKM rubber with a titanium buckle, $1,899. Sold out; the Mokume and Damascus versions were $2,499 and also gone. The Skyraider 40 Skeleton at $2,499 is the same movement in tantalum on a 20 mm lug, 0.3 mm thinner; the $600 is the metal. At 50 m this is a dress watch in a sports case, and the rubber strap should not persuade anyone otherwise.

The cheapest entry and the first manufacture calibre on this ladder: $2,070 buys NOMOS Glashütte's own hand-wound DUW 4001 and a 100 m rating in an 8.5 mm case. 38.5 mm, 46.7 mm lug-to-lug, 20 mm lugs, domed sapphire, screwed steel back, Super-LumiNova on numerals, indexes and hands, on the US store. Other Club Campus 38 dials are priced similarly and were not fetched individually. 100 m at 8.5 mm hand-wound is the number; the Tangente 35 below is 6.2 mm and 50 m. Against the Serica Parade at $1,760 on the under-$2,000 list (35 mm, 8.2 mm, 100 m, COSC), the Club is 3.5 mm larger, 0.3 mm thicker and $310 more. The manufacture calibre is what the $310 buys; the certificate is what it gives up.

The moonphase at $2,075 (£1,825), and a watch bought for the complication, since the case figures are those of a dress watch: 38.5 mm, 43.8 mm lug to lug, 11.5 mm thick, 50 m. Sellita SW288-1 M hand-wound, curved sapphire, exhibition back, gold PVD over 316L steel, 7 leather strap options on a gold PVD buckle. 150 pieces planned, 75 in the first batch, not numbered; listed as returning in late 2026. The alternative in the hand-wound row is the Marsden, $910 less, 3.5 mm smaller, without the moonphase or the PVD. The trade is 50 m, and a wait until late in the year.

The hand-wound chronograph at $2,085 on a strap, $2,285 on a bracelet, and low in stock: 38 mm, 14.55 mm thick, 100 m, Landeron 70 with 45 h, and five interchangeable aluminium bezels in the box. The original Panda Manual listing was 13.75 mm at $1,975 to $2,175, the inter-bezel Broad Arrow and Orange Boy sit at the same $1,975 to $2,175, and the 41 mm Chronomasters are $2,295 to $2,495. Farer's Libre is $2,095 on a Sellita SW510 M at 13.4 mm with a stated 44 mm lug-to-lug; Baltic's Scalegraph is €1,585 at 13.5 mm. The Nivada does not publish its lug-to-lug. It does give you five bezels, and nothing else in the data does.

A hand-wound chronograph in 100 units at $2,095, and 1.14 mm thinner than the automatic Tissot PRX below (13.4 mm against 14.54 mm). 38.5 mm, 44 mm lug-to-lug, 20 mm lugs, Sellita SW510M b Elaboré in a Top Grade finish, 100 m, domed sapphire with a seven-layer inner AR, exhibition back, bidirectional 24-click bezel with a burgundy ceramic 12-hour insert, BGW9 Super-LumiNova, on integrated rubber, leather or Milanese (£1,875). The Gara and Volante are the same price. Designed in London, Swiss made per the brand. The Stratton Moonphase at $2,075 (38.5 mm, 43.8 mm lug-to-lug, 11.5 mm, gold PVD, hand-wound SW288-1) was listed as returning late 2026. The Tissot at $2,150 is the one with a bracelet and a rotor; the Farer is the one you wind.

A Peseux 7001 under a meteorite dial for $2,099, and, unusually for Zelos, in stock: 37 pieces remaining on the check date. 39 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 9.4 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, hand-wound with reworked bridges, 50 m, box sapphire with a display back, Super-LumiNova BGW9 X1, on a 316L bracelet tapering 20 to 16 mm with an external quick-adjust clasp. The Vulcan and mother-of-pearl dials are $1,999. Assembly is not stated on the brand's pages. The same 7001 sits in the Furlan Marri Disco Volante, retired and priced in francs before tax, so that one stays in the notes. The NOMOS Club Campus at $2,070 is the hand-wound at this money with the brand's own calibre and a stated origin; the Zelos is the one with the dial.

A hand-wound monopusher for $2,200 (£1,750), and the Farer Libre above is the comparison the money forces: both run a Sellita SW510 M in Elaboré grade. 38.5 mm, 44.5 mm lug-to-lug, 13.6 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 63-hour reserve, cam-operated single pusher, 50 m, double-sandwich sapphire, C3 Super-LumiNova, a three-part 316L case and the brand's ruthenium anthracite bridge with Côtes de Genève, on Epsom leather at 20/16 mm. The Farer at $2,095 is $105 less, 0.2 mm thinner, rated to 100 m, with a rotating bezel. The Studio Underd0g has the single pusher and the salmon dial; the trade-off is half the Farer's rating.

The Tangente's sibling, $2,290 on the US store, $40 less than the Tangente 35 and 0.1 mm thicker at 6.3 mm. 35 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 18 mm lugs, NOMOS Glashütte's own hand-wound DUW 4001, 50 m, sapphire, steel back, no lume. The international page shows €1,820. It is here rather than on the main list only because two NOMOS were already there; on every figure but the dial it is the Tangente 35, and the Tangente 35 is the reference. The Club Campus at $2,070 is the same calibre at 100 m for $220 less; the Ludwig is the one at 6.3 mm.

The reference NOMOS Glashütte design, 6.2 mm thick on the hand-wound DUW 4001, $2,330 on the US store (€1,860 on the international page). 35 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 18 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire, steel back, Shell Cordovan strap. No lume. The Ludwig 35 is the sibling on the same calibre at $2,290 and 6.3 mm; both are the thinnest entries on this page by 2.3 mm over the Club Campus. Second NOMOS here because the Club is the sport line and the Tangente the dress line, at different prices. The Club Campus at $2,070 is the same calibre with twice the rating for less; the Tangente is the one at 6.2 mm. The Club Sport neomatik 37 with the automatic DUW 3001 is $4,140 and in the notes.

The case is the point, and it is priced under every other tantalum watch here: 39 mm, 45 mm lug-to-lug, 9.4 mm thick, 50 m, with a guilloché crystallised-titanium dial, on an ETA/Peseux 7001 hand-wound with reworked bridges, $2,499, 50 pieces, sold out. The high-end tier runs $1,899 (Artemis Titanium) to $2,499 (this and the Skyraider 40 Skeleton Tantalum on a Marvin 700), all sold in timed drops and mostly gone; the entry lines start at $399 on Seiko and Miyota. Zelos does not state where the watches are assembled, and the warranty is one year, the shortest on this page. The exotic-metal work is real; the ranking stops there because nothing else is published.

The pilot's version of the Artemis idea in the dearer metal: tantalum, 40 mm, 46 mm lug-to-lug, 9.9 mm with the box sapphire and 8.2 mm without, 50 m, skeletonised Marvin 700 hand-wound, C3 and BGW9 lume in light blue, grey FKM rubber, $2,499, 50 pieces, sold out. The titanium version was $1,999 and the Ti-Damascus $2,499, all gone. Against the Comet 39 Tantalum at the same price the Skyraider is 1 mm wider, 1 mm longer, 0.5 mm thicker and on rubber rather than leather, with the skeleton movement in place of the guilloché dial. Against the Artemis at $1,899 it is the same calibre for $600 more, and the difference is the word tantalum.

The blue Disco Volante, the same Peseux 7001 and the same $3,100 (CHF 2,500) as the Havana above, and also marked Retired. What this record adds: BGW9 Super-LumiNova on the dial inserts and hands, a satin and mirror finish on the 316L case, a blue and white leather strap plus a steel mesh bracelet in the box, Swiss Made with bridges hand-finished in Geneva per the maker. 38 mm, 8.95 mm thick, 20 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire front and back. Between the two there is nothing to choose but colour and what remains on the secondary market; the current Disco Onyx Diamonds is CHF 1,000 more.

The Disco Volante in its Havana dial, $3,100 on the maker's US pricing (CHF 2,500 excluding tax), marked Retired on both check dates; the Disco Onyx Diamonds at CHF 3,500 is the only one in stock. There is no automatic in the line; it is the Peseux 7001 hand-wound throughout. 38 mm, 8.95 mm thick with the crystal and 8.10 mm without, 20 mm lugs, 50 m, sapphire front and back with AR and an anti-fingerprint coat, 316L steel. The NOMOS Metro 38 date above is $640 more, 1.15 mm thinner and current. A retired watch is a secondary-market watch; the row records what the maker last asked.

The other Massena LAB chronograph, $3,495 on the Shopify feed on both check dates, sold out as a private release. A reissue of the 1954 Rodania Geometer: 39 mm polished steel case with brushed lugs, three registers, hand-wound per the record, under domed acrylic. The feed gives no movement name, thickness, lug-to-lug, water resistance or lume, so the row is a case and a layout. The Uni-Racer above is the same $3,495 with a named Sellita SW510 M, a stated 9 mm and 50 m, and was in stock. Same maker, same money, same acrylic; the Uni-Racer is the one you can read about and buy.

The reverse-panda Uni-Racer, reference UR-001, at $3,495 and out of stock; the White is the same price and also sold out. The case is the Rally's: 39 mm, 9 mm thick, 50 m, domed acrylic, 316L, hand-wound SW510 M with 58 h. Nothing on the sheet separates the two beyond the dial, so the choice is made by availability, and on the check date that meant the Rally. If a black hand-wound panda at 39 mm is the brief and waiting is not, Baltic's Scalegraph Classic Panda is €1,585 at 39.5 mm, 47 mm lug-to-lug and 13.5 mm on the Sellita SW510-M, with sapphire. It is 4.5 mm thicker, and €1,585 against $3,495.

The acrylic exception, and a hand-wound Sellita chronograph at 9 mm for $3,495. 39 mm, 50 m, SW510 M Élaboré with 23 jewels at 4 Hz and 58 hours, a 4 mm domed anti-scratch acrylic, 316L steel with vintage-style polishing, on brown calfskin. An initial release of 35 numbered pieces was in stock on the check date; the Cruise, Safari, Black and White dials are the same price and sold out. Made in Switzerland per the brand. Lume, lug width and lug-to-lug are not published. The Archetype 1.0 at $4,250 (42 mm, 14 mm, 100 m, double-domed sapphire, 50 pieces, one per household) is the sapphire alternative from the same maker; the Sinn 903 at $4,310 is 5.5 mm thicker on an automatic column-wheel calibre. The acrylic is the trade.

The NOMOS to buy under the line if the Club Sport's 200 m is not the point: a 7.8 mm hand-wound case with a date, $3,740 on the US store. 38.5 mm, 45.3 mm lug-to-lug, 19 mm lugs, 50 m recorded from NOMOS's 5 atm, DUW 4601 with 52 hours, domed sapphire front and back, steel. It is 0.6 mm thinner than the Club Sport neomatik above and $400 less; the Club Sport has 200 m and the automatic. The Tangente neomatik 41 Update below is $1,130 more at the same 7.8 mm with an automatic and a ring date. Hand-winding is the trade.

The hand-wound Brunswick, and at 42 mm the shortest lug-to-lug of any round case on the page: £3,450 including VAT, £2,875 excluding it on cordovan, £3,041.67 excluding VAT on the bracelet. 38 mm, 11.84 mm thick with the closed back and 11.69 mm open, 20 mm lugs, 100 m, La Joux-Perret D100 in TOP grade with 50 hours, sapphire with ARdur on both faces, 316L polished and spun, Heritage Brown cordovan lined in Alcantara. The Brunswick 40 above is £83.33 less on strap for the automatic, 50 m more and 4.5 mm more lug-to-lug. The Grand Seiko SBGW301 among the picks is 2.3 mm longer.

A Sellita SW510 MP hand-wound monopusher, 63 hours, 4 Hz, in a brushed steel case 40 mm across, 48.5 mm lug-to-lug and 14.8 mm thick, 100 m, with the dial numerals moulded from X1 Super-LumiNova. GBP 2,900 excluding VAT (3,480 including) on the maker's site, 2 in stock on the check date. The range floor is the M36 at GBP 1,791.67 ex VAT and the M60 AquaLion is a COSC 600 m diver. Vertex's product pages disagree on origin: the M36 and M100A say manufactured by the brand's atelier in Switzerland, the MP45 and M60 say British made with a Swiss movement. Both are recorded as written. Five-year guarantee. It sits here on movement class alone; no dial or case process is published.

The hand-wound Ophion at EUR 3,620 with a CNC guilloché dial in salmon, silver or blue, or EUR 3,420 in Radial Blue, per the order page; alligator adds EUR 80. 38.5 mm with a 39 mm bezel, 10.35 mm thick, 20 mm lug, 316L steel hand-polished, domed sapphire front and flat back, on a custom calibre built on a Technotime/Soprod base with proprietary bridges and hand-hammered decoration. Lug to lug and water resistance are not published. Against the Vesper it is 0.5 mm smaller, 1.1 mm thinner and EUR 355 less, hand-wound against micro-rotor. The Furlan Marri Disco Volante at CHF 2,500 is the other hand-wound steel dress watch here under 39 mm, on a Peseux 7001 at 8.95 mm.

Ranked on the Magraph and represented by the Archetype 1.0, because the Archetype is the top of the own-brand range with a full spec sheet. The Archetype: Sellita SW510 BH M Elaboré hand-wound, 58 hours, 42 mm, 14 mm thick, 100 m, double-domed sapphire, made in Switzerland, $4,250, limited to 50 and sold as a friends-and-family exclusive at one per household. The Magraph: a hand-wound M660 designed by Raúl Pagès for Massena LAB, 4 Hz, 60 hours, $8,675 and sold out, the brand's first proprietary movement. The floor is the $1,595 Dato-Racer on a Sellita SW400-1. Warranty two years. Collaborations with Habring2, Louis Erard and Vianney Halter run to $49,900 and are not counted here.

Exactly $5,000 on the US site, counted as in, and the successor to the SBGW231 most lists still recommend, whose page returns a 404. 37.3 mm, 44.3 mm lug-to-lug, 11.7 mm thick, 19 mm lugs, hand-wound 9S64, box-shaped sapphire with AR inside, steel. Grand Seiko states the water resistance as "splash resistant", which is a description rather than a number, so the WR cell is a dash. The King Seiko SJE109 below at $3,100 is 0.7 mm shorter lug-to-lug, 1.8 mm thinner and automatic; the SBGX261 quartz at $2,700 is the cheaper Grand Seiko, in the under-$2,500 list's notes. The $5,000 buys the hand-wound 9S64 and the Grand Seiko dial; it does not buy a rating you can write down.

Fifth because Ming's movements are Sellita calibres modified and marked for the brand, a class below a commission and above a catalogue part. The 57.04 Phoenix runs the SW562.M1 hand-wound chronograph, about 60 hours, in a 40 mm steel case 47.8 mm lug-to-lug and 11.85 mm thick, 100 m, with indices laser-cut into the top sapphire and Super-LumiNova X1 on the hands. CHF 6,250 excluding taxes on the maker's site, sold out with a waitlist offered; the 37.11 Odyssey on bracelet is CHF 5,500. Ming publishes prices only while a run is live, so the range floor cannot be read from its archive pages. Design, engineering and final QC in Kuala Lumpur; production and assembly in Switzerland. No run is repeated. Warranty two years.

The hesalite exception and the one hand-wound Omega here, $7,800 on the US page, and the only chronograph under the line with a stated certificate. 42 mm, 50 m, calibre 3861 manual-winding Co-Axial Master Chronometer (METAS), hesalite crystal, 316L steel, fixed aluminium tachymeter bezel, on the bracelet. The sapphire version of the same watch (310.30.42.50.01.002) is $9,000, and a "NEW" sapphire reference on the same page lists $10,400, over the line. Omega's technical-data tab did not load in text, so thickness and between-lugs are dashes, as for every Omega on the page. The IWC Pilot's Chronograph 41 at $8,800 names no certificate on its page and the Zenith Chronomaster Original is $11,100. Hesalite is the trade; the sapphire version is the same watch for $1,200 more.

The same watch as the hesalite Speedmaster above for $1,200 more: $9,000 on the US page for reference 310.30.42.50.01.002, 42 mm, 50 m, the hand-wound 3861 Co-Axial Master Chronometer (METAS), sapphire, 316L steel, a fixed aluminium tachymeter bezel, on the bracelet. A NEW reference on the same page, 310.30.42.50.01.004, lists $10,400 and is over the line. No thickness or between-lugs, as with every Omega. The $1,200 buys sapphire and nothing else the sheet records. Against the IWC Pilot's Chronograph 41 below at $8,800: $200 more, hand-wound against automatic, and a certificate stated against none.

£9,558 for a hand-wound Unitas in Damascus steel, limited to 40, in stock, British made per the maker: Unitas 6498-2 at 3 Hz with 57 hours, 44 mm, 52.7 mm lug-to-lug, 15 mm thick, 24 mm lugs, 200 m, a double-domed sapphire with green or red Swiss AR, a triple-sapphire smoked caseback, cellular Damascus by Vegas Forge with bronze bushings, a Grey Cloud calf strap. It is 1.1 mm thinner than the Skeptiko in the same case dimensions and £4,878 more. It places above the Explorer 40 at the September rate; the Rolex has the certificate, the Schofield a pocket-watch calibre behind a sapphire back.

The thin one, EUR 15,000 to 30,000 and more excluding VAT, EUR 8,000 deposit, about 9 months, 50 a year: 38.5 mm, 45.5 mm lug to lug, 8.5 mm thick, 50 m, in 316L steel, grade 5 titanium or tantalum on application, sapphire front and back, on the La Joux-Perret 7380 as SBM01, hand-wound, 2.9 mm, 3 Hz, 90 hours, NAC finish, 20/18 mm quick-release lugs. Feed editions Sunflower at EUR 12,700 and Uchū at EUR 15,800 were sold out. Against the SB04-E it is 1 mm smaller, 1.8 mm thinner, hand-wound and 3 times the starting price. The Formex Aria at $7,900 is 6.9 mm on a micro-rotor with COSC, in titanium, from stock.

Enamel fired in the brand's own Neuchâtel workshop, 6 to 15 kiln passes a dial, on a supplier calibre: that is the whole of the case for seventh. The Ref. 1125 is two editions of 5, each with a solid white gold dial carrying grand feu enamel over hand guilloché, on a Le Temps Manufacture LTM5000 hand-wound, 4 Hz, 60 hours, in a 40 mm steel case 11.3 mm thick, 30 m, CHF 15,800 excluding taxes; lug-to-lug is not published. The core Ref. 1120 runs a Sellita SW300-1 Premium at CHF 3,500 to 12,000 depending on the dial, with cloisonné, hand engraving, miniature painting and stone as options, and its dimensions appear only in a diagram. Under 100 watches a year, ordered by email or through a few retailers. Warranty five years.

Ninth on a flagship built with Garrick and a core range on La Joux-Perret. The Fears Garrick runs a UT-G04 hand-wound at 18,000 vph, 45 hours, free-sprung Trinity balance, in a 904L case made and finished in Garrick's Norfolk workshop, 42 mm, 49 mm lug-to-lug, 10 mm thick, 100 m. GBP 17,500 excluding VAT (21,000 including), fewer than 5 a year, 2 build slots a year, orders delivering August 2027; the Brunswick Pt is GBP 21,000 excluding VAT. The core range runs La Joux-Perret G100 and D100 from GBP 2,458 ex VAT (Redcliff 39.5 Date). Fears says hand-built in Britain, and its spec sheets disclose case and caseback made in Hong Kong for the Brunswick and Redcliff and in Switzerland for the Arnos. Warranty two years.

The platinum Brunswick at £21,000 with platinum indices or £23,500 diamond-set, listed unavailable and built to order in more than 6 months: 38 mm, 20 mm lug, 30 m, La Joux-Perret D100 hand-wound, a Platinum 950 case of about 100 g carrying London Assay Office hallmarks, on a handmade black Kevlar strap. Lug-to-lug, thickness and crystal are not stated on the maker's feed, which is why the table has blanks. The steel Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose runs the same D100 at £2,875, so £18,125 is the metal and the hallmarks. Nothing else in this site's data is cased in platinum. Confirm the dimensions with Fears before paying the deposit.

First on the first criterion alone: the SBTV01 is a flying tourbillon made with Comblemine for Sartory-Billard, and nothing else on this page has a movement of its own at that level. 3 Hz, 96 hours of reserve, 209 parts, in a 41 mm case 47 mm lug-to-lug and 9.5 mm thick, 50 m, in steel, titanium, gold, platinum or tantalum. From EUR 110,000 excluding VAT, 24 a year, delivery from 8 months, on a non-refundable deposit. The rest of the range is bespoke on La Joux-Perret bases, from the EUR 3,500 SB04-E Winter 2026 edition through the SB04-E bespoke from EUR 5,000 to the SB05 ultra-thin at EUR 15,000. Finished and assembled in France; dials designed and finished in-house. The site does not state a warranty term, which is worth asking about before the deposit.

Habring² publishes no prices, which Austrian VAT law is cited for, so the Erwin sits on this site without a figure and is placed by what its maker does publish: a jumping deadbeat seconds on a movement the Habrings build themselves in Völkermarkt. It is the only watch in the data with that complication and the only one whose price you have to ask a dealer for. A US dealer article put it at $6,400; that is not the maker's number and is not printed as one. The nearest thing on the site by idea is the Nomos Tangente, hand-wound and in-house at $2,330, without the dead seconds.

The reference point above everything else, and a row whose figure needs a caveat: the Series 2 page shows no price, and the CHF 43,500 in the table is the Series 3 figure from a search result, not fetched from the maker. Agenhor's Agengraphe Cal. 6361.M1, a manual-winding chronograph, in a 34-part grade 5 titanium case, 41.5 mm, 14.2 mm thick, 22 mm lug, 50 m, with HyCeram lume filling the dial. Lug-to-lug is not published; the run is sold out and will not be repeated. Formex's Aria is $7,900 on the FX01 manufacture micro-rotor at 40 mm and 6.9 mm; Breitling's Navitimer B01 is $10,300 at 41 mm. Neither is an Agengraphe, and that is the argument.

The collaboration with J.N. Shapiro of Los Angeles, and a row with no price because the archive page showed none on 20 September 2026, only the excluding-taxes suffix: a grade-2 titanium dial hand engine-turned by Shapiro and heat-coloured by Ming Thein, in the 38 mm steel case, 44.5 mm lug-to-lug, 10.9 mm thick, 100 m, domed sapphire front and rear with HyCeram indices inside the top crystal, on a Sellita SW210.M1 hand-wound with about 42 hours. Orders were paused with the waitlist open; delivery slots were filled through late 2027. Atelier Wen's Ancestra puts a hand-hammered silver and enamel dial on a Pequignet at $5,850, 38 mm and 11.3 mm, and shows the price.